The only reason not to get a 36er is if you’re dealing with alot of traffic. The Nimbus with an Airfoil rim would be a first choice. If your budget doesn’t allow then lose the Airfoil, or cheaper yet get a Radial 360. Any of those would bring you many miles of enjoyment.
Edit: I like the Nimbus frame because it has nice machined bearing holders and is very rigid.
A 36" will be the best for long-distance riding. Period.
I’ve ridden long distances on a 29er, and it’s manageable, but there’s no doubting that the 36" is better. However, 29ers have advantages when you’re not riding them - easier to store, carry around, mount/dismount, obtain spare parts, etc. etc… so it’s a question of how much you can live with the inconveniences in order to get the best ride.
I think most unicyclists would say there was no question, tho - go with the 36".
Unless, that is, you are considering forking out for a geared unicycle (i.e. 29er, presumably) - but that’s a whole different ball game…
$424 for the Radial deluxe, then if you also want the nimbus frame (that will make it the nimbus deluxe as both radial & nimbus deluxe are identical save for the frames) you spend $120 more. That’s a total of only $544 and you get both frames. Buying it that way is about $40 cheaper than buying JUST the nimbus deluxe alone.
The 36" is a lot more stable due to the larger rotating mass, just more difficult to manouver in traffic. A 29" feels more or less like a 24", just a bit bigger. A 36" is an entirely different beast, when you get it going it’s like riding a sofa, a fast sofa. If you’re sticking to smooth road a 36" is deff. the way to go (unless you’ve the budget for a geared 29").
If cash is short. I have one and I love it. I wish I bought the better wheel. But UDC is funny about pricing their deluxe models. With the better rim and spokes its about 140 $ more then the steel 360. To buy the rim and spokes separately later is 164 $. So if you you can lace your own wheel, you get an extra steel rim and spokes for 24 $.
So it’s not such a bad deal to buy the 340 $ model, even if you want to upgrade later.
I have never tried the Nimbus frame. From what I have read, they weigh the same, not much to choose from between them. Unless you want brakes. It’s flat down here, I don’t know how hard it is to put brakes on a radial.
Brakes are good if you go down steep hills alot, but many 36er riders, including some of the best in the world, do without them. They won’t let you do anything you couldn’t anyway, they just save your legs a little. They are genreally not used for slowing down (deffintiely not on the flat), but for stoping your speed from rising as you descend.
Handle bars are still fairly recent, the T7 handle fits in the rail adaptor, so any standard saddle can be put on top of it. Other, smaller handles like the GB4 and reeder (both now unavailable i believe) bolt to the underside of the saddle base, so any saddle can be used but it will need to be drilled appropriately.
Anyway, to answer your first question, if it’s just for distance, and you’re not planing on city centres being a regular part of that distance, then a 36" is the way to go. And, if you go for a 36er, then the new Nimbus frame is fantastic. That’s what I had, and it was a great beast of a unicycle. A lovable gentle giant.
However, a lot of my riding is in heavy traffic. So, I recently traded it in for a 29" Schlumpf. Since getting the N36 I’d been using my regular 29" a lot of the time anyway, but with a geared unicycle you have the best of both worlds; the maneuverability and convenience of a 29, but the faster speed of a 44" wheel. If your budged stretches to it, I would highly recommend it.
As for handles, well, the T7 handle is just excellent. If you’re expecting to go for more than an hour or so in the saddle, it’s a worthwhile investment. It has enough space for mounting cycle computers, water bottles, bells, lights and any other gadgets, and turns a comfy saddle in to a fantastic saddle!
Brakes, on the other hand, are probably not high on your list of requirements unless you expect to be going down lots of long steep slopes. I put some Maguras on my N36 (the mounts were already there and it would have been a shame not to use them), and they were really useful riding through the mountainous parts of South Wales. However, they’re complete overkill othewise.
YEs brakes are quite useful on steep decents, especially with short cranks 125mm or less. Most newbie coker-ers start out with the standard 152mm cranks as they are easier to climb, decend and mount, but I know one older guy who started with 175’s, but now uses 152’s.
As for the T7 or whatever handlebar, i can see how some might find it helpful in some ways, but I haven’t had the need for it and certainly would not want it getting in the way during off road “coker muni!”. I like my setup just as it is, except I’ll be going to 110’s and then 102mm cranks.
Yep, got the lose the handle for coker MUni. I think its best to have a separate seatpost/rail adapter/saddle for easy swapping between the two setups. Of course, this gets complicated if you throw a brake into the mix.
…hmmm…just get two and set one up for road and the other for dirt.
I just switched to 110s (from 125s) I’m enjoying the speed, but I definitely lost some climbing ability. I think I’ll hold off the 102s for now.
Right. And they can keep the plastic peds haha! And I completely prefer the radial frame (Same seatpost diameter as the nimbus and has the hole for the caliper brake, which is more than sufficient and waaaay cheaper than maguras, which is total overkill on a coker, IMO) over the nimbus; I think it’s probably lighter as well. But to each his own. All I know is that it’s a pleasure to ride for miles and miles and smooth as butta!
PS: Some ppl actually prefer the CrMo seat post to the alum as it’s stronger and less likely to break. That’s prolly why some ppl with trials unis get CrMo posts.
Haha heck no! The short cranks are for the beach bike path riding that I do several days per week. Since it’s a 44 mile rountrip, I want to go a bit faster while pedalling smaller circles. For coker muni we use 152’s-165’s, and much lower tire pressure.