Haha, very casually these days. If I was after an advantage I should really just ride more and eat healthier before spending hundreds on lightweight parts!
Even not as a racer though if the reduced weight makes for a more pleasant ride and you can afford it, then why not spend that money. There are far worse vices in the world than having lots of money invested in unicycles, and even for the nicest parts the costs are small compared to things like home or car ownership.
Isn’t that the truth. I definitely can see a difference in my free mounting when my weight is up a few pounds. And as a car guy that has spent lots of money on my 4 wheeled toys my unicycle habit is much cheaper.
I sold a Schlumpf to build a carbon/Berd wheel… I’m just testing everything before deciding which will be the best uni for my riding. Considering that I built/bought and restored and sold about 7 or 8 unicycles… I can say that I’m still spending the same money I started with about 5 years ago. I’ve owned (or still own): 1x12, 3x19, 3x20, 1x26, 1xG26, 1xF26, 1xG27,5, 1xG29, 1x29, 2x36. Now I’m waiting for the 29" Berd (I hope it will be the last test)
Well I’m still waiting for the italian Berd’s distributor, so my review about Berd spokes is
delayed. My review for the Italian distributor maybe won’t be so happy (cannot remember how many months have passed)
The Italian reseller don’t allow me build the wheel by myself so ended up that I paid their wheel builder to give me a wheel laced with only 35 spokes, with already a spare broken spoke and with only one spare new spoke and in the wrong color (asked for black and received white spokes after 5 months). He told me that the hub has too small flanges and too big holes (exceed hub). It doesn’t matter if I sent the exact specs 3 times before have them ordering spokes.
However when I paid I could get my rim and hub back to me. I disassembly everyspoke to find the loop in them (the part fixed to the hub) already a bit damaged on every spoke (the wheelbuilder didn’t file the inside of the hub holes leaving the holes risky about cutting the small ropes in the spoke).
Tested it at 90kgf a spoke came out of the hub hole (2.8 is too big, the hub needs 2.0 holes), tested again at 80kgf and at the fist complete half and rev back 2 loops completly cutted in the hub.
So the test ended with 3 broken spokes and 34 damaged spokes.
If anyone is willing to use Berd: hub spokes’ holes with 2.0 exact diameter; use a large flanges hub; use a simmetric hub, do not trust at all the Italian reseller (I think he reused some white spares he already own and never answer any further question after receiving “untracked” money so I don’t own any proof of his failure)
That sounds like an absolute nightmare, especially considering the price of the spokes.
Do you think there’s any kind of alternative way that a 2.8mm spoke hole hub could work? All of the unicycle hubs that I can think of are 2.8mm. Could you use a more solid retaining bar than what they supply?
Perhaps you could get hollow brass rivets/eyelets of the right size to put in each hole? That might casually resolve the cutting problem too.
To solve the retaining problem I thought about small stainless steel parts, but that was 1) difficult due to small flanges (opposite spokes were in contact pushing each other spokes while tightening causing a bad rotation) and 2) it will add extra unwanted weight.
I’m still considering about a way to fasten some fishing weight (don’t know the name for those small weight sphere one can add) around the loop to have it locked inside the flanges, but it could again cut those spokes
Yes, Here is an old LanceB fix. Make a ring out of sheet aluminum or C.R.E.S. Drill a matching hole pattern to your hub, bolt/screw together to the flange (#2-56 screw) have another hole pattern slightly passed the outside of flange at the 2mm diameter you seek. Then you could radius and polish the “spoke hole” if necessary.
ooops!, Well I will have to think on this, my shop and tool pool is very extensive but you are correct, it must be for everyone who wants to use this system. Easy and quick like rolling the flange in molten plastic putting on a 0.4 mm coating to close up the spoke hole. Even a home brew spot nickle plate in a jar at home to close in the hole. I’ll have to get back to you on this.