Berd Spokes

Haha, very casually these days. If I was after an advantage I should really just ride more and eat healthier before spending hundreds on lightweight parts!

Even not as a racer though if the reduced weight makes for a more pleasant ride and you can afford it, then why not spend that money. There are far worse vices in the world than having lots of money invested in unicycles, and even for the nicest parts the costs are small compared to things like home or car ownership.

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Isn’t that the truth. I definitely can see a difference in my free mounting when my weight is up a few pounds. And as a car guy that has spent lots of money on my 4 wheeled toys my unicycle habit is much cheaper.

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I sold a Schlumpf to build a carbon/Berd wheel… I’m just testing everything before deciding which will be the best uni for my riding. Considering that I built/bought and restored and sold about 7 or 8 unicycles… I can say that I’m still spending the same money I started with about 5 years ago. I’ve owned (or still own): 1x12, 3x19, 3x20, 1x26, 1xG26, 1xF26, 1xG27,5, 1xG29, 1x29, 2x36. Now I’m waiting for the 29" Berd (I hope it will be the last test)

You’re not feeling suicidal are you?

No. My wife say that I like more building and tuning than riding… and maybe she’s right.:sweat_smile:


I would certainly be down for a set of 36’er spokes. possibly two sets if that’s what it took to make it happen!

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Here’s a good read for anyone interested.

Several bikers have found the material berd uses and made their own. Definitely an involved process, and berd even had the post taken down once or twice.


Well I’m still waiting for the italian Berd’s distributor, so my review about Berd spokes is
delayed. My review for the Italian distributor maybe won’t be so happy (cannot remember how many months have passed)

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Easy to lose a few hours of your life reading that thread about the fibre spokes! It’s fascinating stuff. And then Berd join in the fun too, it’s like a soap opera :stuck_out_tongue:


I believe that @JimT meant to post this here: Rust removal and protection

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If anyone is interested in trying to make their own I’d probably be interested in going in to help reach the minimum cord order length.

Seems like people say they were able to order a 100 m minimum. Looks like about 10m gets you 1 wheel, a bit longer for a 36er.

That would be for the same dyneema d20 braid that berd uses for their spokes.

I know you’re planning to post your spoke review alongside other parts later, but it’d probably be good in here too.

Have they just ended up being too long due to stretch/incorrect advice from Berd around the length?
Long enough to try 4 cross?

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The Italian reseller don’t allow me build the wheel by myself so ended up that I paid their wheel builder to give me a wheel laced with only 35 spokes, with already a spare broken spoke and with only one spare new spoke and in the wrong color (asked for black and received white spokes after 5 months). He told me that the hub has too small flanges and too big holes (exceed hub). It doesn’t matter if I sent the exact specs 3 times before have them ordering spokes.

However when I paid I could get my rim and hub back to me. I disassembly everyspoke to find the loop in them (the part fixed to the hub) already a bit damaged on every spoke (the wheelbuilder didn’t file the inside of the hub holes leaving the holes risky about cutting the small ropes in the spoke).
Tested it at 90kgf a spoke came out of the hub hole (2.8 is too big, the hub needs 2.0 holes), tested again at 80kgf and at the fist complete half and rev back 2 loops completly cutted in the hub.
So the test ended with 3 broken spokes and 34 damaged spokes.

If anyone is willing to use Berd: hub spokes’ holes with 2.0 exact diameter; use a large flanges hub; use a simmetric hub, do not trust at all the Italian reseller (I think he reused some white spares he already own and never answer any further question after receiving “untracked” money so I don’t own any proof of his failure)


That sounds like an absolute nightmare, especially considering the price of the spokes.

Do you think there’s any kind of alternative way that a 2.8mm spoke hole hub could work? All of the unicycle hubs that I can think of are 2.8mm. Could you use a more solid retaining bar than what they supply?

Perhaps you could get hollow brass rivets/eyelets of the right size to put in each hole? That might casually resolve the cutting problem too.

To solve the retaining problem I thought about small stainless steel parts, but that was 1) difficult due to small flanges (opposite spokes were in contact pushing each other spokes while tightening causing a bad rotation) and 2) it will add extra unwanted weight.

I’m still considering about a way to fasten some fishing weight (don’t know the name for those small weight sphere one can add) around the loop to have it locked inside the flanges, but it could again cut those spokes

Those are called “split shot” weights.

Yes, Here is an old LanceB fix. Make a ring out of sheet aluminum or C.R.E.S. Drill a matching hole pattern to your hub, bolt/screw together to the flange (#2-56 screw) have another hole pattern slightly passed the outside of flange at the 2mm diameter you seek. Then you could radius and polish the “spoke hole” if necessary.

I think he meant a lightweight alternative

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Well, a simpler alternative I suppose. Something anyone could consider doing, whatever their quantity of shop tools.

ooops!, Well I will have to think on this, my shop and tool pool is very extensive but you are correct, it must be for everyone who wants to use this system. Easy and quick like rolling the flange in molten plastic putting on a 0.4 mm coating to close up the spoke hole. Even a home brew spot nickle plate in a jar at home to close in the hole. I’ll have to get back to you on this.