Bent KH seatpost rail adapter!

Well Iwas able to re-center the clamp to the rail, and now I got some good tilt back!

Here’s a design that I posted many moons back. This particular one is the second that I’ve built. It went onto the muni. It has outlasted two frames. My weight averages around 212 pounds and the muni takes a pounding.

It utilizes the original bolt pattern of the seat. The sides are flat iron. The rails are heavy rods. The seat post ends up further back than the original position. This gets the seat post under the repostioned weight of tilting the seat up. It also moves the frame back away from the knees.

The original response from this forum was that it looked like the rails would bend since they are only attached from one end. Nothing has bent on my Coker or Muni. It is very adjustable, easy to make, and solid.

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That looks really cool! How did you make it? Did you also make the seat post?

That looks wicked, could be ideal for my street/trials uni as i have been steering away from a rail due to its size etc. do you plan to make any more?

the seatpost is “PRIMO - THE ROD” :smiley:

To throw in my two cents, I think your rail clamps came loose first. (ever so slighty) allowing enough room to twist the metal.

I just think it’s those HUGE drops you are doing and you need to loose some weight!!

I think you’re on to something there! Let’s also keep in mind that the KH freeride is only rated for 10 inch drops by riders weighing no more than 80 pounds, so a big fattie like me coming in at a whopping 145lbs can cause serious damage to such a delicate machine! (HEy we have 3 new riders in my area, and one just bought my Torker dx, and the other 2 also want to start riding muni!)

For aggro riding, most of the KH seat stuff will eventually bend and for us in SB, we’ve pretty much just bit the bullet and got the Scott Wallis seats with the Thompson seat posts. You can afford that, Terry, and you’ll never be sorry for going that route. It’s light and basically bomb proof. Otherwise you’ll just end up with odds and ends and mismatched jive, most of which is made out of tin.

JL

You mean this setup? http://www.wallisdesign.com/HANDLEpics.html
Could I use traditional KH style handle and rear bumper on it?

I know that you can use the normal kh handle, but I don’t kno about the normal rear bumper. why get the KH handle though? The deathgrip is so much nicer.

I just checked prices! Looks like well over $500 for the saddle setup! Ouch! :astonished: I’ll probably just make due with what I have until it’s totally thrashed! But still I could just spend about $25 for a GB4 seatpost, and use my brake post adapter that bolts on under the front handle.

keep in mind, you don’t need the road relief saddle. you can get the derail base for $170, deathgrip hadnle $65, back bumper $30. that $265. The road relief saddle is probably great though…

edit: you would also need the thomson post though, so another $65

A primo rod post works too. It is still really strong just weighs a bit more. It costs $17.

I didn’t think the primo rod worked with the KH frame though. I might be wrong.

Just call Scott and tell him what you need. The expensive “road relief” set up is for long distance Cokering. The set up Mornish mentioned is all you need for Muni. And I don’t advise tacking plastic KH stuff onto that rig just to save 100 bucks. It’s a painful bullet to bite (costly), but you forget all about that after a few rides. The rigid CB and the deathgrip handle will really improve your hopping. You’re getting to where you can benefit from the fgood gear, Terry.

JL

That’s no typo, just a contraction. Wallis equipment is f—ing good gear!

The “deathgrip” handle seems suited for the “right” hand, is it left? It IS curved so can it be used comfortably with either hand? I favor my LEFT hand for gripping the handle.

It can be fabricated for left and right…It says that on that page.

Oh…I must’ve missed that. Too bad they don’t make it “neutral” for either hand! (maybe they do, I didn’t see that either)