bent cotterless cranks

Well, I knew it was bound to happen sometime:

I was outside riding the uni, doing some trials stuff. Im dropping 3 and
1/2 feet no problem most of the time. I decide to go for 4 and 1/2 feet.
This is 6 or 7 times what the wheel is rated for. Nope. I bail on impact.
So Im sitting there for a few minutes and i get back on and start to ride.
DAMNIT! The crank is bent, pretty badly, not horificly, just badly. Its
very noticable, both while riding and just looking at
it. Theres no way im just going to get used to it.

These are (were) dotek (?) 6" cotterless crank arms.

Can I bend them back? How?

New cranks? What should I be looking for. I know about the diffrences
between splined cranks and cotterless cranks. If I go splined i need a new
hub and a lot of money. Unless I plan on forgoing college textbooks, i
dont think splined is an option. If anyone out there happens to know of a
deal of some kind, or some less exspensive splined cranks/hub, though,
hook me up. As for cotterless, are there any decent pairs of cotterless
cranks that will take this abuse?

Thanks for anything you can do to help

=====
Nick Cegelka

Pyrotechnick13@yahoo.com

NickLikesFire AIM

www.uni-psycho.cityslide.com

Unfortunately, I’m not familiar with dotek, but here’s my generic
experience. For me, 6" and longer cranks, if not designed for strength are
likley to bend. The best cheapest cranks are typically hardened steel.
I’ve currently got a pair of bicycle euro (I believe) steel 6" cranks,
which are holding up great so far.

The disadvantage of steel is it’s heavy. I was subprised to see that the
weight difference was noticeable in jumping. Aluminum are lighter, but
also weaker. I’ve tried a few aluminum sets in the under $50 range, and so
far, I’ve broken sets by bicycle euro, lasco and summit. (I weigh just
under 160, and bent most of my cranks with drops between 3 and 4 feet,
whild landing poorly – with most of my weight on my back foot).

I’ve herd Kooka Downhill cranks include a lifetime warrenty. I know
nothing about them, but if you’re willing to bet you won’t be breaking
many hubs, this would be a good alternative to going with a splined setup.

Personally, I’ve decided with my next broken set of cranks, I’m going for
the profile splined setup because of it’s warrenty.

— Nick Dangerously <pyrotechnick13@yahoo.com>
> wrote: Well, I knew it was bound to happen sometime:
>
>I was outside riding the uni, doing some trials stuff. Im dropping 3 and
>1/2 feet no problem most of the time. I decide to go for 4 and 1/2 feet.
>This is 6 or 7 times what the wheel is rated for. Nope. I bail on impact.
>So Im sitting there for a few minutes and i get back on and start to
>ride. DAMNIT! The crank is bent, pretty badly, not horificly, just badly.
>Its very noticable, both while riding and just looking at
>it. Theres no way im just going to get used to it.
>
>These are (were) dotek (?) 6" cotterless crank arms.
>
>Can I bend them back? How?
>
>New cranks? What should I be looking for. I know about the diffrences
>between splined cranks and cotterless cranks. If I go splined i need a
>new hub and a lot of money. Unless I plan on forgoing college textbooks,
>i dont think splined is an option. If anyone out there happens to know of
>a deal of some kind, or some less exspensive splined cranks/hub, though,
>hook me up. As for cotterless, are there any decent pairs of cotterless
>cranks that will take this abuse?
>
>Thanks for anything you can do to help
>
>
>
>=====
>Nick Cegelka
>
>Pyrotechnick13@yahoo.com
>
>NickLikesFire AIM
>
>www.uni-psycho.cityslide.com


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