Bearing Spacing

I totalled my uni (totalled means the cost would be greater to fix the uni than buy a new one of the same type, Torker LX 20). Looking for uni’s suited to my ends, I settled upon the nimbus eclipse for my new one. It is marketed as a freestyle unicycle, the ‘first of its type’ in some way or other, the ‘lightest freestyle’ unicycle on the market, isis hubs, 100mm cranks…it is ‘designed for stand up and foot-out tricks’ which to me translates into being good for freestyle and flatland, possibly, and I noted that it said the ‘bearing spacing is reduced to give better spinning stability.’

This is what I’m wondering about. While I practice legwrap and seatwrap skills and mounts, I find myself wishing that the crank came out a tad farther so I could really have something to stand on. I feel like a person doing one foot wheel walks with a round fork.

And now I’m wondering if this unicycle, with its reduced bearing spacing, would be even WORSE for these tricks.

If so, I want to know my options for fixing it.

So, what is bearing spacing exactly and how will it affect flatland?

I put in the order for this uni last night since every website up’d the price $100 last week, and I found one of the old price, so I ordered it.

Has anyone tried this model and what do you think?

Ok, so you know on a unicycle where the frame clamps to the hub/attaches to the wheel? Right there are the bearings. Bearing spacing just affects how close they are to each other, and it shouldn’t affect standing room. If you want more room you should buy new cranks, as it looks like the Eclipse is specced with Ventures, I’d recommend either Koxx One 135 Street cranks, 125 KH Moments, or some of those Impact tubular cranks for flat. Oh and if you get the Moments, buy some rollos too. They are little disks that attach to the end of your crank for more room to stand on but as far as I know they only work on Moments.

I’ve never ridden that unicycle but it looks like it would be great for freestyle, and pretty respectable for flatland, maybe a little weak if you’re throwing 720 unispins but I dunno… Seat looks a bit thick for unispins, I’ve heard Ventures are weak.

But yeah this is just a flatlander’s review of a freestyle unicycle, so I’d wait for someone a bit more knowledgeable on that. It’ll probably be great for you for a while. :slight_smile:

That’s a relief. I hope I enjoy the teeny cranks. I’m borrowing my friend’s 20 because of mine’s destruction, and his has 114s instead of 127s, which I’m used to. It doesn’t make anything more difficult except for riding uphill. I prefer it because it’s really working my legs out, and my old uni didn’t wear me out at all unless I was hopping and wheelwalking. This new uni will really build my muscles.

Is there a way I can give myself more crank-standing room? This will probably have either an equal or slightly smaller space to stand on, and I feel like the space on my uni is already too small.

.

What cranks do you use, Julia?

Do you do flat tricks?

Edit: Those rollo’s look amazing. Though there are more expensive uni’s, I feel like even a mere$360 is a near ridiculous price to pay for what is essentially a pole and a wheel. That’s why it’ll be hard for me to drop an extra $130 right off the bat, but I honestly think it may be necessary…if I want the best possible street cycle within reason.

The double-hole KH cranks are brilliant. If I bought a crank, it would probably be a double, since that is like two cranks in one, minus installation time, for $100 instead of $80.

I would get 110/127, I think, though I have not ridden anything shorter than a 114. The eclipse comes with standard 100mm.

In the states, according to the ONE cycle shop I have spoken with in person, we trade cranks in terms of inches; 4, 5, and 6, perhaps. My uni came with a 5, and I’m borrowing my friend’s right now which has a 4, and it’s much better. More exercise. I have been mentally equating this length to 114, although I don’t have any clue how to convert from standard. I’m about to look that up.

Anyway, in my unicycle football league, cranks break down all the time. People’s cranks are constantly breaking. But those are cheap…I would just have trouble investing that kind of money if I thought I would need to replace them within a year or two. My uni does take a pretty heavy beating, but that is the case with most people on this site, probably. The cranks most of us use in the league are stock for Torker LX ($100-$140 uni) and are really low end, I think $25 a set or so.

Before I get these KH’s, I will attempt to weld a small addition to my own Eclipse cranks to achieve a similar end. It won’t be as pretty, but the difficulty I’m having with Flat right now, and the fact that the product ‘rollo’ exists, tells me I could really benefit from a few more mm.

Worst cast scenario is I mess up the weld…but then I would just torch the weld off and try again…and if they get truly ruined, I’ll just shell out the money, since it is a certainty that sooner or later, I will own rollos.

I just looked at the Koxx-one’s.

If those appeared to give as much room as the rollo’s, I would probably not care so much how fugly they are, but alas…

Which gives better spacing, koxx or kh rollo? And I mean koxx that is NOT 135. I don’t want a 135…
I’ll forgive the aesthetics if the koxx are better.

Thanks Julia and others, sorry for the length of the post,
Lance

I use the koxx 135s, I don’t think Koxx makes any good flatland cranks shorter that that so your best bet is probably the moments. Nobody’s ever broken them as far as I know so don’t worry about that either.

From the forum titles listed under “General Discussion”, the “Unicycling Articles and Tutorials” forum is described as such:

“Bearing Spacing” doesn’t read like an article or a tutorial. This is not the proper forum for asking questions.

If you have questions, first search the Unicyclist.com forums (especially Rec.Sport.Unicycling) to find your answer. Being over a decade old, it is more than likely your answers are already here; in this case there is no reason to start a new thread.

If you can’t find your answer (please try at least once for your own benefit), only then should you post your question in Rec.Sport.Unicycling. Not only does it help keep the forums organized, posting in RSU exposes your question to a much wider audience, giving you a chance at a better, more accurate answer.

Thanks!

I rode Moments with Rollo’s for a long time and they were great. Now I’m also riding Koxx-Ones and they are great too. You’ll get used to either and they’ll be fine. The new Koxx-One street cranks are 133mm I believe, but that is a negligible difference in length. It sounds like Moments would be better if you want short cranks, but as i said before either will be fine.

Niko informed me in a PM that what I thought “Freestyle” meant was entirely incorrect. I thought the term meant street; what the term actually does mean is a medium that I did not know even existed, likely involving more fragile equipment specialized for gyms :/.

So I’m sending it back, ordering Nimbus trials (Blizzard style) (White tire $310), Which they have the option of putting 125 KH moments on for only $25. I appreciate your help in straightening some of this out for me.

P.S.> Most of my clothes are from thrift stores - I don’t like the idea of shelling out too much for pure aesthetics on my budget…funcionality trumps form/fashion in all senses…But I think it’s necessary to upgrade the seat to a functionally identical one of a higher price with this model, pictured here:

http://www.municycle.com.au/images/shop/UP-SD-NGCOW-09.large.jpg

Unicycle pictured here:
http://www.unicycle.com/nimbus-20-inch-trials-cycle-14/

Shot them an e-mail requesting to put 127/110 KHs on instead of 125s. They have a pull-down list of acceptable cranks to choose from, and 125 is the only alternative, but I thought I’d ask anyway because I actually prefer 114…I’ll tell you what I hear later today.

Should I get a crank puller? I’m doing street, no skinnies for a while, thugh I don know if this is relevant. Why would I?

theyre handy to have. every once and a while you want to change your cranks positions anyway to even out wear on your rim.

They respected my request; now on the drop down menu, 127/110 is an option. How kind of them! (for only $48)