Basic Unicycle Maintenence

whats so funny

how is that funny? :stuck_out_tongue:

tire rotating is from one wheel to another. I think you guys might mean just switching the orientation of the tire on the wheel. I’m not sure if thatll make a difference… in fact, I’m pretty sure most tires are meant to go in one direction only (you’ll see an arrow on the tire wall showing intended direction of rotation.) I know you guys dont have your own cars yet, so no offense intended. I didnt mean to sound demeaning or make you feel dumb :stuck_out_tongue:

it’s where you get the tyre, and spin it on the rim 90 degrees.

when you hop you wear down one spot of the tyre a lot fast than the other part of the tyre, by rotating it you move the spot you hop on and then you wear down that spot more

yea, there are different applications for the word rotate

Please give the guy proper clear advice!

Your pedals keep coming out because your wheel is the wrong way around in the frame. The right hand pedal and right hand crank MUST be on the right hand side of the frame. The left hand pedal and left hand crank MUST be on the left hand side of the frame.

The pedals have a different thread directions on them. If they are on the correct side, as you ride forwards the pedals tighten. They do need to be tight though to begin with though

It is EXCEPTIONALLY RARE for pedals to come loose if the wheel is the wrong way around in the frame.

ps, before Gilby gets at me there is one exception about pedals on left and right and that is on 2 wheelers.

Ha, I got that wrong didn’t I. :slight_smile:

I meant NOT the wrong way around.

If you find you’re wearing down the tire so it is more square like in terms of the tread depth, you may also want to rotate the tire 45 degrees.

Idling and making sharp turns also wears down the faster, and more so on the part of the tire when your dominant foot is down. The side that is wearing faster, easier to idle on, or turn in the direction of is likely to be your dominant foot. It should be the goal should be to be equal with both sides for any manuver to be more well rounded.:slight_smile:

hmm all you have to do to rotate the tire is spin it on the rim while its deflated, just make sure the tube doesn’t spin w/ it

make sure your spokes are nice and snug, they will probably come loose after a few days/weeks of riding depending on how hardcore you are :slight_smile:

Ok, here is all you need to do.

Take the bearing housing off of the unicycle, clean the bearings and the holder of any dirt and rust, or any other type of junk lodging its way in there.

Take off your cranks, clean the splines, and the splines of the cranks, and anything else that you can see needing cleaning. Do not use WD40, it is for water displacement, and not actually lubing the splines. Once you get the splines and everything cleaned and re-lubed/greased, set them back on but put them on at a different angle than before. This will be just the same as rotating your tire, but all you have to do is take off your cranks and move a few splines from the original position, then put them back on.

Having the cranks back on, in a different position from the original, tighten them up, and then put the wheel back into the frame, making sure the R crank is on the right, L crank on the left. Put on the bearing holders and tighten them up snug, but not too tight o you just be clamping down the bearing and they will stop spinning. Keep it tight, but still let the wheel spin pretty freely.

Re-tighten your cranks again, just for reinsurance. Now you got your uni back together, go through it and tighten the seat clamp, and the bolts under your seat, they could be loose.

Check your spokes and see if any of them need to be tightened.

Take your uni for a quick 10-30min ride, do lots of drops and gaps to see how the uni is holding up, take it back and and give everyone one list twist too make sure nothing came loose.

I just finished an in depth tutorial about this sublect. You can find it here Its also in my sig.

>sigh< okay i owe you guys an apology. . . I had forgotten that the wheel is fixed as far as its relationship to the pedals is concerned, so if you always hop with the right pedal down, that part of the tire will wear quicker. This is my ashamed face -:o please forgive me for my arrogance. heh heh. you guys probably have ten times more experience than i do, anyways. . . just today i got my first five freemounts :smiley: and did my first miler without falling off (although that was not from a free mount)

Well most of the proper maintenance has been posted already, but one bit of advice…

Proper maintenance for a Torker CX basically involves tossing it into the nearest garbage bin.

that is the best advice I’ve heard.

wouldn’t that be kind of mean to the garbage can? :smiley:

That’s one more of us and one less of them.

Another way to rotate the tyre is to take the cranks off and move them one face on.
It’ll make sense when you have them off.
It might be slighly like swatting a fly with a Buick to do it this way, but then you don’t have to worry about the tube moving or not moving or getting caught anywhere.
The other advantage is that you’ll realise it’s actually quite easy to remove cranks (with the right tool) and that you too can start playing around with different length cranks.

good point. perhaps just light it on fire. xD

thanks a lot for all of your help. i’m going to do some of those things today.

also, thanks a LOT, trials_uni, for your awesome tutorial. i would be so lost without it. i’ll post later on to tell you how it went (and probably ask where i can get new cranks :D). wish me luck!

nah, don’t light it on fire, the tire is still good, and the seatpost… you could even make something like a unicycle rack out of it!!
how to do it
you can figure out
but it would look cool
almost like a tandem unicycle

i wasn’t serious you know