Australian Lack Of Trials Uni's

It was confirmed what I was afraid of that it’d be nearly impossible to get a trials unicycle from Australia as nobody makes/imports them here.
I can however get them from unicycle.com about $1600 australian (that’s with postage and money conversion to AUD) which is, ironically, how much I am in debt to my landlord.
Heh oooh how life can be cruel. So cruel. Anyone from Australia selling a trials uni? Pulling at straws here, but straws is all I gots :wink:
Sam Murray

What about importing from the Uk?

You might try talking to andrew carter. He has been in the same dilemna, and he has solved it.

Australia has a Norco distributor. I contacted them about the KH uni and they said they wouldn’t know till next season whether they would get any in. They also told me I’d have to go through a bike shop as they are wholesalers only. This was about 2 months ago.

It may be worth finding a bike shop that deals in Norco bikes and seeing if they can get you a KH 20 or KH 24. Just a thought.

You could also do what Tony and I do and keep the local bike builders in business :slight_smile: We are about to have custom frame numbers 5 and 6 built. The difficult things to get hold of for custom unicycles are the seat, axle and strong cranks. A bike builder can build a frame up and the rim, tyre, spokes, pedals etc are not problem to find.

You can get a seat from juggleart in melbourne (and crappy axles too for that matter). For stronger axles you can try modifying bmx hubs or import from unicycle.com Strong cranks for 20" wheels are hard to come by but for a Muni Kookas or Sugino tandem cranks arms are both available without a spider and will both take a hammering. My Kookas are the strongest cranks I’ve ever tried - carry a crank wrench with you though as they tend to need tightening in the middle of every ride.

A custom trials uni with Monty wheelset and suzue hub should cost you under $1000 Australian dollars. You’ll probably want to get some strong cranks cut down and retapped or some such. The other alternative is to hope they start selling splined axles cheaper or just splash out on a profile hub.

Note that some items are cheaper to get in from unicycle.uk.com than unicycle.com It depends on the price and exchange rate. In general postage from the UK is not as steep.

Where in australia are you???

Im in perth. Ive made a few unicycles, one trials uni, these are the costs.

20 inch trials uni
150 for a standard uni from perths circus shop.
120 for a monty rim, monty tyre, and stainless spokes.

Lasted for about 2 months befor i broke 3 sets of steel cranks.

Built myself a 24 inch trials unicycle.
$650 for a profile unicycle hub and crank set from unicycle.com, (tried to order it through profile australia, if i work in a bike store and cant get it, then you cant!)
$100 for the cromolly, welded it myself
$20 for bearing studs
about 120 for a 3 inch tyre, rim and spokes

coming out at about 900 all up. hell cheaper than buying one.

if you want any more info, email me
Hellsman@hotmail.com

James

Re: Australian Lack Of Trials Uni’s

Rumours rumours rumours.
I’ve heard that a shop in Canberra will be importing the KH Norco
unicycle (the cheaper one) some time next year.

nic

peter.bier <peter.bier.dprxm@timelimit.unicyclist.com> wrote in message news:<peter.bier.dprxm@timelimit.unicyclist.com>…
> Australia has a Norco distributor. I contacted them about the KH uni
> and they said they wouldn’t know till next season whether they would get
> any in. They also told me I’d have to go through a bike shop as they are
> wholesalers only. This was about 2 months ago.
>
> It may be worth finding a bike shop that deals in Norco bikes and seeing
> if they can get you a KH 20 or KH 24. Just a thought.
>
> You could also do what Tony and I do and keep the local bike builders in
> business :slight_smile: We are about to have custom frame numbers 5 and 6 built.
> The difficult things to get hold of for custom unicycles are the seat,
> axle and strong cranks. A bike builder can build a frame up and the
> rim, tyre, spokes, pedals etc are not problem to find.
>
> You can get a seat from juggleart in melbourne (and crappy axles too for
> that matter). For stronger axles you can try modifying bmx hubs or
> import from unicycle.com Strong cranks for 20" wheels are hard to come
> by but for a Muni Kookas or Sugino tandem cranks arms are both available
> without a spider and will both take a hammering. My Kookas are the
> strongest cranks I’ve ever tried - carry a crank wrench with you though
> as they tend to need tightening in the middle of every ride.
>
> A custom trials uni with Monty wheelset and suzue hub should cost you
> under $1000 Australian dollars. You’ll probably want to get some strong
> cranks cut down and retapped or some such. The other alternative is to
> hope they start selling splined axles cheaper or just splash out on a
> profile hub.
>
> Note that some items are cheaper to get in from unicycle.uk.com than
> unicycle.com It depends on the price and exchange rate. In general
> postage from the UK is not as steep.
>
>
> –
> peter.bier - Unicycle addict
>
> -Peter Bier
>
> He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes, he who does not ask
> remains a fool forever - Chinese Proverb
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> peter.bier’s Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/1506
> View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/21480

Nice to meet you James, it’s a pity that your all the way over in Perth though.

Sam,

It’s really up to you, and it may well be that unicycle.com is your best bet, but this is what I’m doing. Firstly, a lot of this only benefits me because I work at a bike shop.
Frame - Custom made by a local frame builder - I haven’t had this done yet because I’m waiting to get all the parts first se he can work around them. I’m expecting it to cost anywhere between $200 and $400. I’m designing the whole thing and basing some of it on the new KH24 frame. You can see the first designs on one of my threads. I’m also going to get it coloured the same orange as on the KH24.
Hub/Cranks - Profile hub, Profile 150mm cranks - I can get these throught the bike shop but for someone who doesn’t work in a bike shop, it’d probably be better to get them from unicycle.com (just as cheap). I really wanted a splined hub and crankset and these were the only ones I could get separately. They were more expensive than I expected but I think it’ll be worth the money. In all these weeks I’ve been waiting to get my new unicycle, I’ve been working a fair bit so I think I should be able to afford it.
Rim - Hopefully the Alex DX-32 24" - I’m not sure whether or not I can get this rim for a 24" in Australia but I think I’ll be able to. It’s really wide and I’ve seen a 20" one in a catalogue somewhere. I’ll get the black one because I’ll be getting the frame painted orange and the only other choice is yellow.
Spokes and Pedals - Some really strong spokes and good pedals - These are both easy to get from any bike shop.
Saddle - Probably the Miyata saddle - I’m not sure but I think this is the only one I can get from www.juggleart.com (who ship free within Australia). It has a 22.2mm diameter seatpost which I don’t think looks as good as a nice 29.4mm diameter one. Does anyone know if I can get any other good saddles in Australia through Australian distributors?
Tyre - Hopefully a 24" x 3.0" Gazz - Can anyone please tell me what Gazz is short for? Also, is this the name of the model or the brand? I’m not at all sure whether or not they have an Australian distributor but I’m sure I’ll be able to find a 3" wide 24" tyre somewhere in Australia. Have I missed anything?

Basically, the reason for building a custom unicycle is so I can get the exact shape of frame that I want with all the parts I want (particularly the Profile setup) for cheaper than shipping from America. I’ll tell you what happens with the frame when it’s done but in the mean time, have a look at http://www.muniac.com/emuni.htm. Scott has have a frame built by a frame builder and has written a really helpful review about the whole process. It also warns you about all the little time-consuming complications of frame design and building.

Good luck,
Andrew

One more thing, from what you’ve said in your other threads, it sounds like you would probably want to go for a splined hub and crankset. A decent splined hub will be quite a bit stronger than any cotterless hub. I was just thinking that if you’re willing to spend around $1600, why not go for the Yuni 20" Trials unicyle with the Profile hub and cranks? I think it worked out to be around $1300 - $1400 including shipping to Brisbane. Also, the KH20 and Onza trials unicycles seem good. All three have splined hubs but I gather that the Profile hub is still better. It’s been well tested anyway.

Gazz is short for Gazzaloddi. The Gazzaloddi tires are made by Nokian.
<http://www.nokian.com/bike/dh/index.html&gt;

There are other 3" tires too if you can’t get the Nokian tire. A good list of tires are here:
<http://torontounicyclists.tripod.com/tire.htm&gt;
<http://wobbling.unicyclist.com/Components/Tyres24.html&gt;
And, of course, the unicycle.com catalog.

Are you sure you want 150mm cranks on a 24" muni/trials unicycle? 170mm is generally what people use for a 24x3 wheel so you can get enough leverage and torque to hop on odd sloping surfaces. 150mm cranks would be OK if your goal was an off-road cross country speed machine, but you’re after a trials machine. Keep in mind that a 24x3 wheel has a diameter almost like a 26" mountain bike wheel, and not like your standard 24" street unicycle.

I’m sure Nokian would have an Australian distributor. If they don’t you can try Groundzero in NZ:

Groundzero

Ken

Saddle - Probably the Miyata saddle - I’m not sure but I think this is the only one I can get from www.juggleart.com (who ship free within Australia). It has a 22.2mm diameter seatpost which I don’t think looks as good as a nice 29.4mm diameter one. Does anyone know if I can get any other good saddles in Australia through Australian distributors?

A couple of things to be aware of with the miyata saddle: Miyata changed their manufacturing process and the new saddles have a design flaw. The ends of the bolts for the bumpers (and I think the seat post as well) sit in plastic and have a tendency to round out the plastic. If this happens you can’t unscrew anything and dismantle the seat. This is a major problem if you want to upgrade your miyata seat (which you probably will). Before riding on a new seat I would carefully dismantle it and do something about this problem before the bolts round out. Various different solutions have been proposed.

You will probably want either a carbon fibre seat base or a stiffening plate for a miyata seat. Before I got my stiffening plate I snapped/bent several seats. I’ve also bent multiple seat posts coming off while doing Muni/trials stuff.

I usually get this fixed by getting the seat post lopped off and a new post welded on to the end that bolts to the seat. This costs between $20 and $40 dollars (including the post). If you want a larger diameter tube this may be worth doing. It may even be worth getting a seat post custom made with extra bracing to prevent bends.

Juggleart also do viscount saddles but they aren’t nearly as good for trials.

I would be tempted to get a Velo seat. You’d probably be able to find a dozen or so Australians who would be happy to buy one and do a group order to keep postage costs down.

helpful review about the whole process. It also warns you about all the little time-consuming complications of frame design and building.

Ain’t that the truth! The custom unicycles we’ve had built usually take around the 3 to 6 month time period from conception to reality. And from conception I mean the decision to definately get one, full steam ahead, make it happen as fast as possible.

try…

Gazz in australia is almost impossible to find. They dont do the 24 inch version here, so you’ll have to go else where.

Or, why dont you try a duro leapord? 24 by 3, its the one i use, sweet as.

As for a custom frame. if you’ve done any metal work, then cut and shape the tubes yourself, then get it welded professionally. itll save you heaps. i did my whole frame for 100 including welding rods. and its based on a kh 24.

Just a thought!

James

James,

Unfortunately I dn’t have any metal work experience. I think I would have enjoyed doing manuel arts. As for this frame you made, did you have any major problems with it? How long did it take? Also, do you have any photos of it?

Thanks

Peter,

What’s wrong with them? I’ve got one on my unicycle at the moment and I haven’t had any problems with it other than the screws falling out. I put some new screws in there and they’re really strong.

John,

Thanks for the advice on the tyres. Unfortunately, I’m stuck with 150mm cranks. I think they should be alright and some people do choose to use 150mm don’t they? The person from the bike shop who ordered them for me assumed that I’d prefer these to the 170mm because he said it felt really strange riding with 170mm bike cranks. They’ve already been ordered and should be here in a few days. They won’t be that bad will they? I suppose one good thing is that they’ll be pretty fast for cross-country stuff but i am planning on doing trials and downhill muni on the unicycle. We’ll see. If i really don’t like them, I ca put up with them for a few months and save up for the 170mm ones. The cranks aren’t nearly as expensive as the hub.

Thanks

p.s. Sorry to change the subject of this post a bit Sam.

You’ll be wanting the 170’s for trials. The good news is that the 170’s are a standard bike crank size while the 150’s are a custom size just for unicycles. It should be easier to get 170’s than the 150’s because the 170’s are not a special unicycle specific part and a bike shop may already have them in stock. Get 170’s for a bike and grind off the little do-dad that bolts on the chainring and you’ve got unicycle cranks.

You’ll be able to do fine with the 150’s until you can save up and get the 170’s. It would actually be fun to play with 150’s on a 24x3 because you could spin faster. One of these days I’m going to have to put the 150’s from my trials uni on my 24x3 muni just to see what it is like. I think with the 150’s I might surprise myself and be able to ride some of my trails faster than on the 170’s.

Pics of my frame

My beast

This was the uni i made.
I bought the cromolly tubes and plate, cut it with an angle grinder, filed the tubes to fit nicly, welded up and bam. done. took me about 5 hours including wheel building. Still going strong, a little scratched.

I didnt use a plan. but heres how i made it.
Cut the plate for the foot rest out first wider than needed. cut the seat post to the right size and angle, welded them. Cut the legs out with excess, cut the angle for it to connect to the foot rest, compressed the ends to get more contact. Checked the width against the tyre witdth, left 8mm on each side of the tyre, welded the legs. Put the frame on the bearing blocks, marked out how much i had to cut off the legs, cut it accordingly, and welded it onto the blocks.

The seatpost was made by welding a rectangular plate the the bottom of the post, drilling holes to fit the seat on. The clamp was one from a bikestore that fits precicly.

It wansnt that hard. Just have to measure things properly and make sure the welds were good. After welding, i filed rough edges, and painted.

james

Well done. That sounds like a really good job. I’ve got a few last questions; how did you make the bearing holders (or didn’t you), do you have any photos, what diameter is the seatpost and seatpost section of the frame, what shape was the tubing, was it hollow, what dimensions did you use for the tubing?

One more thing…could you please look at my first designs in the thread called ‘24" Custom Frame - First Design’ and make any neccessary changes or suggestions of changes? I really want this unicycle that I’m getting made to be perfect because I’ve done so much research and waited so long.

Thanks a lot,
Andrew

right,

All the photo’s i have are on that page.

The bearing holders were bought from juggleart in melbourne at 5 bucks each, then welded on.

www.juggleart.com.au i think.

All the tubes were 1.5mm think cromolly i bought from a go-cart racing store. they had heaps of different tiameters.

I dont have a set of calipers, so im going off eye measurment and a ruler. The seattube is 27mm diameter, the seatpost is the next size down, which slides in perfectly with less than a mill clearance. around 27 is good for the seatpost. All you have to do is find two tubes that fit nicly into each other!

The legs were 20mm diameter. As for the shape, i looked at getting ovalised, but, the cost of it is twice the amount of tubular. so i bought tubes, then ovalised the ends in a vice. to fit nicer.

its all 4130 as well.

All right, some suggestions.

10mm plate for the footrest?? overkill. ITs cromolly, thats strong stuff. go 3 or 4 at most. If it was aluminimun, then 10 mill would be good. but steel is much stronger.

Side clearance is too much. 5-10mm shoould be fine, the closer the better unless you’ve got really wide hips. I checked my clearance, ive only got 3 mills on each side and ive got no probs. Just check your spokes ocasionally.

As for the cranks, why 150? on a 20 inch that would be fine, but on a 24 you wont get enough torque. THis is base on trials biking as well. As a rule, mod(20 inch riders) use 155 to 160mm (i use 160’s on my brisa trials bike) and stock(26 inch bikes) use 165-175mm cranks. espically for trials, you wont get enough torque with small cranks to roll the tyre over big things.

Dont worry about the strength. 1.5mm should be fine. all the stress will be taken on the cranks and hub, not the frame. Overkill is not best.

Thats about it i think, the design looks good!

JAmes

JimmyTR- you might check that link, it doesnt work.

James,

Thanks a lot for all that. The link is www.juggleart.com. What did you do about a seat? You said that all you have to do is get 2 tubes that fit into each other, but didn’t you use the seat post that came with the seat?

As for the cranks, unfortunately I’m stuck with 150mm. Someone from the bike shop where I work went ahead and ordered the 150mm cranks because he thought 170mm felt too long. I would have preferred the 170mm ones, but I’ll put up with these and if they’re too short, I’ll save up and get the 170mm ones a few months later.

I think I’ll still go for the ovalised tubing because I really like the look of them and I wat this unicycle to be perfect because I’ve been waiting so long for it. I’ll also use 4130.

I will change the footrest to 3 or 4mm and the side clearance to something smaller. It’s good to know that the metal’s going to be so strong. As I said before, I’ve got no experience wit metalwork or anything like that unfortunately.

Thanks for all the advice, it’s been really helpful.

Thanks,
Andrew

Hi

I’m into trials as well and having the same problem as you. I’ve bought a cheap trials uni from unicycle.com (http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=97) but the cranks and hub set up isn’t very strong and I’ve bent them pretty bad. I think the best idea is to build your own. I am eventually going to get a profile hub and cranks when I save enough money. A Monty rim and tire can be bought from one of the trials dealers hear in Australia. And a seat from Juggle art. All the other stuff can come from a bike shop. I’ve also had a go at making a Muni there are some pics hear, http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albun58

Luke.