arguments for a 26" muni

Spoken like a man who doesn’t own a Jeep, a Hummer, a Tank or a 24.
Fail. Perhaps you’re thinking about a Jeep Liberty and a 24 with a slick
cheap tire or something?

If the rider has no hopping skillz (or wants to “roll everything”) then a 26
may just be the choice. The way I see it, when I borrowed a 26" I lost the
ability to hop as well. It cut my hop by inches that I would normally use
to get over the stuff that a 26" can’t roll.

There are a lot of benefits of a 24" over a 26" BUT the 26" has one glaring
benefit: larger choice in tires rims and spokes. Fortunately, having tried a
few tires and such, I really love the Duro . . . so I’m lucky there. Still, I envy
the number of choices that a 26" has on tires (because I like to change the
tire (and air pressure) and feel like I have a “whole different unicycle”).

Also, if you look outside of the muni box, a 24" is far more versitile.

I ride a lot less these days than I used to. I used to ride “off road” on a 36, a 26 and a 24. There are noticeable differences even between the 24 and the 26.

The sizes are nominal: a 26 may be have a slightly smaller or larger diameter than 26 inches, depending on the tyre choice. However, if you take the two measurements as exact, then a 26 is 26/24 as big as a 24; that is 8.3% bigger.

8.3% is less than the typical difference between gear ratios on a bicycle. When I had a touring bike, I set it us so that the gears were as near as possible to 10% apart.

So in a sense, the choice between 24 and 26 is less significant than the choice between 7th gear and 8th gear on a road bike: which is better depends on the situation.

However, it isn’t that simple. The larger wheel rolls over stuff better. This is particularly important if you ride “off piste” through long grass, deep mud or undergrowth. A Coker will ignore stuff that would stop a 24 in its tracks. A 26 will “smooth out” stuff that a 24 would make into hard work.

On firm hard track, the 26 will be about 8% faster (assuming identical cranks and cadence) and that extra speed is noticeable on a long trip. It also gives you more momentum, and you can sometimes “rush” a short steep obstacle on a 26 when the 24 would stall just before the top. There is a double effect here because the 26 can maintain its speed better over small bumps that might put you off your stride on a 24, so the 26 is less likely to stall during the “rush”.

But the 24 wins out on tight turns on winding tracks between trees or rocks. It feels very much more manoevreable.

Assuming identical cranks, the 26 will have an extra inch of ground clearance, which makes a real difference to whether or not you suffer the indignity of a pedal strike-induced UPD.

On the other hand, assuming identical cranks, the 24 will be easier on the knees on steep descents. It will be that bit easier to idle or reverse, and will generally be more responsible to sudden attempts to change speed. The feeling I have is that the 26 is great while you can keep it rolling, but once you get bogged down, the 24 is easier to restart.

Freemounting the 24 is far easier - a big difference if you are tired - and UPDs are slightly less painful because you are generally travelling more slowly and nearer to the ground. This is mainly psychological, because the extra height of the 26 is only an inch, but there is definitely an effect there.

The 26 has a wider range of tyres because 26 is a common mountain bike tyre size. However, the 24" tyres tend to be more specialised with higher volume.

Weight is an issue. 8% larger diameter means 8% heavier rim and tyre (other things being equal).

On the whole, I’d prefer 24 for MUni, and 26 for cross country, but it is only a question of emphasis, not a fundamental difference.

that makes the 24 sound useless because hummers are useless off road, theyre too heavy for theyre own good. or was this a comparison to make the 26 even more awesome??

OK sorry for making my analogy, I thought it was sort of fun and got my point across, I guess I was wrong.

No I have not driven a hummer but I have driven Jeeps and Bren Gun Carriers (tracked vehicle from WWII). I have a trials, a 24 and a 26 and have used them all. So I do sort of know what I am talking about. I have also used a 36er for XC Muni and love it where it is possible. And yah, I would rather power my way threw stuff with the odd rolling hop than do what I would consider rolling trials.

Unfortunately the rim choices for a good 26” Muni rim are not as great as they may seem. Many good mountain bike rims are only made in 32 hole. I have an Echo 46mm rear trials rim on mine and think it is about ideal, much wider than an Alex DX32 but much lighter than a Marge.

Anyway Mikefule summed it up really well and I agree with almost everything he said. Much clearer than how I was trying to say it.

The only thing that I would disagree with is the preference of the 24 over the 26 for steep descents. I usually loose traction before I don’t have enough power to stop/control myself. And in my experience the 26 has better traction and is less easily upset by rocks and roots on the way. I use 150s on my 24 and 160s on my 26 so the effective gear ratio is almost identical.

I realy like my 26 but I haven’t had it for long. If I could only have one muni I would chose the 24 but that has a lot to do with the kind of trails around here. If I lived somewhere else I might chose the 26 but I like having both.

As people have said the choices of 24s far excedes the 26s. Unless you are building your own frames like I do. If I was just starting out today I would just buy a KH 24. When I started riding the only choice for a serious Muni was a Hunter which at the time was a thousand dollars with a Profile hub. I started building my own to save money now I do it because I like buliding them.

I originaly built my 26 so I could try the 4" endomorph tire for snow riding and it is only available in the 26. That said I don’t think it realy helps that much. I haven’t found any conditions that I could ride with the 4" that I couldn’t with the 3" and it’s a $100 tire.

  1. It’s never wrong to make an analogy. It is only wrong to argue by analogy. Picking fault in someone else’s analogy is not a valid attack on their argument. It is only a more sophisticated game of semantics. Non carborundum.

  2. I have used the Jeep/Landrover etc. analogy before. It is a good one except that some people have strong opinions (occasionally backed up by experience:) ) about these vehicles. I used to have a small Suzuki 4x4 that I used to take off road. My girlfriend has a Landrover Defender that we sometimes take on the military ranges on Dartmoor. I would call the 24 a Landrover and the 26 a Suzuki. The Coker was, oh, a Frontera or something like that.:wink:

  3. Your kind comments make me blush.:o

  4. I do sometimes get overpowered on a descent. That is partly weak technique, and partly because I am fairly light and not especially strong. The problem is not usually keeping control of the speed; it is regaining control if I start to let the uni “spin out” then realise I have misjudged it. :astonished:

I think that a 26 would be fun, but beacuse nobody really makes one stock you would have to build it up yourself. I would go with a 24 because they are more readily available.
Also, I am one of those riders who tries to eliminate hops and roll everything. I think thats how Muni should be, getting from point A to point B, no tricks in between. I think a 24 is good for this. I ride a 24 with 170s, which were a little long, but i think 150s would be too short.

I would go for the 24 with 165s or 150s, depending you’re riding style.

nimbus had a 26" for $263. so you dont have to build one.