well I was doing a pre hop and one of my spokes snapped at the elbow. Could my spokes be too tight or was it just a defect? (my hub flanges are soffened)
I think it is less likley that they are too tight although they maybe. I have broken 2 spokes and I think it was because they were too loose so they flexed which work hardened them, made them britle and then they broke and mine broke in the same place as yours.
yay 400th post:D
its bizzar cause it the only one that broke must be a defect
This is most likley due to uneven spoke tension. Most likley that spoke was much tighter than the others and when you prehops more stress hit that spoke than all the others.
A spoke break at the elbow usually indicates a defective spoke. Especially if they are standard 14g spokes.
No such thing as an intact wheel with “too much” spoke tension. The tension is always limited by the design and quality of the components.
The b*&e hubs with straight-pull spokes were supposed to allow even more tension, but in many cases the mushroom head of a straight spoke was weaker than the elbow design. They still make the elbow design for a reason. It’s strong.
Only other possibility is a hub where the spoke holes in the flanges are beveled on both sides, creating a “knife-point” at the center of the spoke hole.
I’ve swaped it for a spare 14g spoke, I’ll see if it holds
Surely if you wind the spokes up so the wheel is on the verge of breaking, and then take it off a drop it will fail becuse you had too much spoke tension? While it has wheel build advantages using higher tension decreses the effective strength of the spokes/nipple etc. this is evdienced by the fact that potentially you could tighten the nipple until the thread stripped or the spoke snapped.
for that to happen it wold have to be rim snapping stress though?
Well i would think that actually the nipples would round off first, so you couldn’t tighten them any more with the key. I doubt that’s what happened in your particular case. I suspect whoever mentioned uneven tension in the spokes is probably right.
I’ll check it all tomorrow, it takes ages
Listen to the sound each spoke makes when you flick it, if the pitches are dramatically different then you have varying tension around the wheel.
I could just look at how much the thread comes out the nipple nipple?
that assumes the rim was perfectly round to start with, not necessarly true but i guess it would give a rough idea.
can you expand an that please?
- remember i’m the guy who spent 4 hour building it :o
Checking the number of threads would imply that the threads on the spokes were threaded the exact same length. Most likely the difference is only one millimeter or so. Your best bet is to make sure that the rim is true and in dish (the rim in the dead center of the hub).
Broken spokes can be caused by a few things, most likely uneven tension. If the spoke that broke was a bit looser then the rest it could have been slowly weakening. Think of breaking a hanger by bending it back an forth a lot.
The type of spokes and rims used for unicycling are not tensioned to a specific tension. Instead you should check the deflection of the spoke when you squeeze two of them together, about an inch in total. Plus when riding you will hear the spokes if they have vastly different tensions.
well I can’t realy hear them, do you mean they will move 1 inch apart?
Yeah just tried my stock KH wheel and it’s more like 1/4" movement.
well mine is sightly less, would taking the tention down a little make my rim more prone for detruing(bending)?
The spokes on the new wheel I just built take some serious finger muscles to move at all.