Hi!
I LOVE my UDC 29er and I was wondering if anyone else has the same one that I have. I’ve tried to find it online and barely found anything. Of course I’ve added upgrades but it’s the perfect uni I’d want for commuting. 
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I have the UDC 29 and the UDC 32 and really like both of them. the 29 is what I’m riding in my avitar pic
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I own both also. I bought my udc 29Dr used and have put lots of miles on it. I did a lot. I did a lot of upgrades experimenting with tires and saddles until I found the right combo for me . This unicycle has served me well with no problems. I love it
What is your bar set up?
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They still make them. I don’t think they have changed much other than maybe the hub.
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@Bug72
Neat, yes I’ve put lot of miles on mine too because it’s so fun to ride haha. What tire and saddle works best for you? I am waiting for my Kris Holm Fusion Freeride saddle to come in. I have a Big Apple tire that came with it (the previous owner and the owner before him had that tire on it). The tire is getting worn so I’ll be getting a new one soon.
My bar setup is made by my boyfriend Mark, who is a bike mechanic. He took pieces of bikes and made handlebars out of them haha. t’s a cut stem, with a seatpost inside it, then a stem on that, and cut handlebars in them with bullhorn bars as well.
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For tyre, I love WTB 2.2 slick 29". Nimble and no camber! I always had camber issues with the Big Apple 2.35. I don’t really know why.
And when you get your new saddle… enjoy 
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On my 29er i have an older KH street but I put an air cover on it. I have a KH free ride on my 32 and have an air cover coming to put on it. 125 cranks and I use a KH straight bar with Mt. bike bar ends and a bmx pull brake. I have a schwable hurricane 29 x2.25 tire . It’s a good tire for pavement and groomed bike trails. Last year I bought a nimbus 29er road uni and have it set up the same but I think I’m going to put a more aggressive tire on it for bike trsils. After I bought the nimbus I set my udc up as a hill climbing uni but have since converted it back . I still ride this alot it just feels comfortable to me.
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This handle bar looks not so strong, as too havy. It goes agains the basic principle of unicycled - to be lightest and strongest.
Well, commercial handlebars are not so cheap. And bike parts tend to be lightweight, so maybe it’s lighter than it looks?
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I would not say that light weight is a basic principle. There are some weight weenie unicyclist around but I’d say a more important factor is if that is what you happen to have and if it works for you, it must be good. For basic riding, things like saddles and handlebars that are in direct contact with the riders body and don’t move separate from the body, I don’t see weight as a major factor.
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@Cedar_Dobson1 is using it for “commuting” and here I don’t even think that saving rotational weight (rim, tire) is that important. Because a bit more rotational weight also makes for a more stable ride with less side-to-side movement and less need for forward-backward corrections. Better flow…
This custom handlebar looks quite comfortable/solid to me and I really like homemade solutions
I have a KH Fusion One +KH reinforcement plate+M4O Ursli bar … and even that “unicycle specific” solution does have some flex. The only solution that I have tried that is almost free of flex is the M4O Handle Saddle but they are quite expensive and the ergonomics is not for everyone.
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Having 2 standard weight unis and 1 purpose built for being light, I do find I go faster on my light weight one but control is more important at high speed. The ability to recover from bumps at speed I find is what dictates my top speed. Though I’m faster on the light one, if you practice you’ll eventually get it with the heavier one due to reputation and better muscles.
Yup, that is definitely true, you have to save some of your pedaling speed to be able to take what the road throws at you. If you pedal 100% flat out and hit a small piece of gravel and need 101% or more to recover, then you get to run for your life or most likely tumble and roll. Rotational weight is more important for acceleration than top speed and for commuting that could be a real gain because stop and go is what commuting(at least in decently populated places) is all about.
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I love your bar set up and your UDC 29er. If you search me on this forum you will find I’m a huge advocate of the 29er. And the udc’s are under rated and extremely affordable. People complain about cotterless cranks but I have never broke one or damaged my hub in anyway. The Titan / Trainers re not just for beginners but completely suitable for experienced riders.
36ers aren’t for everyone and you can cover a lot of ground on a 29er at a decent clip and maintain maneuverability and ease of mounting.
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Yep. Solidly good. The UDC cotterless hubs are good, I don’t know anybody who has had an issue with them. Of course, I wouldn’t do massive drops with them.
It’s the unknown/no name manufacturer cotterless hubs which are problematic.
I agree They are not for muni or trials but are sturdy and upgradable and are perfect for a large portion of our riding population. Mix and match some good after market components that suit your style and you will find you have a great road /commuter or bike trail uni.
Ceaders. uni is a perfect example of what you can do with one.
I think you have to take the size of the rider into account too. Cotterless hubs will likely be fine for muni with a rider that weighs less than 50kg, while a 100kg rider will likely destroy them.
I am 190 lbs and have 4 years and many miles on my udc 29 er and have not destroyed any cotterless cranks or hubs in the course of normal bike trail and road riding. Once again no muni or trials riding. I have a 26er nimbus muni for off roading.
I’ve yet to destroy any cotterless cranks as an adult. As a kid doing bmx I messed up a couple pairs, but that was likely due to being clueless about how to properly install and maintain them.
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