So…I see this can of antiseize is gonna last me a very long time.
A VERY long time.
Do you antiseize anything else?
What is your deciding factor when deciding on to antiseize, or to loctite?
So…I see this can of antiseize is gonna last me a very long time.
A VERY long time.
Do you antiseize anything else?
What is your deciding factor when deciding on to antiseize, or to loctite?
Yup, a little jar of anti-seize will be a lifetime supply for the average home mechanic. Unfortunately the stuff will go bad long before that.
I use anti-seize on things that get squeezed very tightly. Generally that means splines and the crank bolts on splined cranks. The exception is the crank nut on hubs with outie threads (like the Suzue). The crank nut gets Loctite to keep it from backing off and getting loose. The Loctite also lubricates the threads during assembly so the nut can be torqued down reliably.
Loctite goes on threads that I don’t want backing off and getting loose.
As a general rule no threads should be assembled dry. They should be either greased, anti-seized, or Loctited. Dry threads can’t be torqued down reliably and they can become stuck. Torquing down dry threads very tightly can damage the threads.
Things like pedal threads get greased before assembly. No need to use anti-seize there. Don’t use anti-seize in place of bearing grease in pedals or other bearings. Anti-seize is not a bearing grease and is gritty.
Things like the cinch bolt on a seatpost clamp get either anti-seize or grease. It just depends on how I’m feeling at the time and whether I have the grease or the anti-seize handy.
With the Profile crank tool, Profile supplies a warning that the threads of the crank tool need to be anti-seized before threading in the crank tool and banging on it. The Profile warranty won’t cover damage due to threading on the crank tool with dry threads and then banging on it with a hammer.
Well, J_C, as usual, you’ve covered just about everything!
Thanks
Sofa wrote: “Antiseize anything other than splines?”
I use anti-seize on ALL the screw in light bulbs in my house and office.
It prevents those dreaded twist offs, where the metal part of the bulb “seizes” to the lamp and becomes almost impossibe to get out. Anti-seize prevents this problem. --chirokid–
Nice!
Cover your unicycle in anti-seize during trips into the store to prevent theft.
I like to use it when I make sandwitches a bit of antiseize on a turkey sub yum yum.
Sorry to change the topic, but wow you must have strange lightbulbs over there. What’s this ‘twist off’ business?
Andrew
Andrew:
I’ll show you mine if you show me yours!
It has two little bits that fit into grooves. You push it in (it’s spring loaded or something) and then twist it.
Andrew
Bayonet lightbulbs twist off too. I’ve heard of people breaking them while trying to get them out (maybe anti-seize could have prevented it). The idea I heard was to make sure the light is switched off, then chop a potato in half and stick that into the broken glass that is left, and use the potato to unscrew the rest of the bulb from the socket.
with the light shut off (and the breakers off for backup), I just twist it out with pliers.
odd how pliers are more abundant than potatoes at my place.
Andrew:
the problem we encounter with our lightbulbs (not too often…once every few years?), is when you go to unscrew them, sometimes you just unscrew the bulb from the still-attached-to-the-ceiling-silver-part with the threads in it.
Of course, the bulb is still attached to the threaded part by the wire, making you have to pull it out, if you were to go with the potatoe idea…and pulling on an already piece of broken glass causes little pieces to fly out.
I think I like Australian light bulbs