Another newbie question....cranks + missing bit.

Firstly let me say I know nothing about unicycles, I’ve never even seen one being ridden in real life, however this forum and Youtube have inspired me to give it my all. At the age of 48 I’ve got a healthy respect for pain so am probably taking a long time to learn - after 3 weeks I can do a control ride of 21m (sad I know but I paced it out!!) on smooth tarmac then come undone changing to grass - it’s even mowed grass I can’t ride on!!!

Anyway, my cranks…I bought this Muni simply because I liked the look of it (I really am that shallow) and because it was in a closing down sale for 1/2 price, so I have no idea whether-or-not it’s any good (I do know it’s great fun though)…what type of crank are these, cottered, cotter less, splined, ISIS (?) etc, etc. If you can tell what they are please explain what the description means, also on a scale of 1 to 10 where do they rate - and why.

1 is “absolute rubbish, I’m surprised you’ve managed to even sit on it without them snapping”.

10 is “oh my god…I can’t believe you’ve got them, I’ll pay whatever you want for them”.

Also if you look closely on one side I have lost what looks like a washer with two location holes in it. I guess it’s a locking ring or dust seal…does it matter it’s gone (nothing is loose)? Is it a standard part that a bike shop would have?

uni 4.jpg



That is an 05 KH Onza 36 spline 3 piece tubular CrMo crank. The early batches were infamous for snapping, so the tube thickness was swapped up from 1.4 to 1.6mm which resolved the problem. I would rate it 6 out of ten, probably perfectly beef enough for what you wnat to do, I still ride an identical pair myself, but a determined trials rider could break them.

The piece you are missing is called a self-extracting ring. It’s use is to give the shoulder of the bolt something to shore up against so that when you undo the bolt it drags the crank off with it. They regualrly come undone, I’ve lost a couple myself. Replacements are available from and can be installed with either the proper tool ( a pin wrench) or a pair of circlip pliers. To stop them coming loose again, remove the ring from each side and liberally aplly loctite, or any other threadlocking compound such as NutLoc to the threads, and reinstall.

EDIT: Important note - the threads are left handed on the rings, i.e. clockwise to undo

The piece missing is to do with removing the cranks. With the disc on there, when you undo the large allen key bolt the crank will extract off the hub too. I have lost one of these too, but found you can just pull the crank off the hub. Dont worry to much about it as you’re unlikely to be changing too much, just keep the allen bolts tight.

The hub and cranks are splined, although not ISIS standard

oh and I think your uni is great, but then i have one too so maybe a little biased. For learning though you maybe be better off with a smoother tyre and shorter cranks, all personal preference though.

hope this helps


That’s a pretty good uni. Not as good as kh’s or anything but nonetheless still pretty good. Beats out a torker cx, that’s for sure :).