Advice for painting rim

hey guys and gals.

i plan to do a super spiffy paintjob on my trails before CMW this week, and was wondering if there is any way to not have to unlace my entire wheel to paint the rim.

I really don’t want to do that at all. I can get the tire off, but unlacing the wheel is out of the question at this point.

Yeah take a strip of masking tape and wrap it length wise around your spokes. Then Put tape on your cranks or just take em off.

You could mask off the spokes by cutting out a piece of paper in a round shape for both sides and tape it place using double sided tape. Then spray away! Prepare the rim first by lightly sanding, then shoot on some “etching” primer first, then your color. Then maybe protect it with clear-coat.

the masking tape one will do for me, i think…

i’ll get the tape and primer tomorrow, and begin on my sweet new awesome thing!

Don’t forget to wash the rim with soap and water, then dry it with a hair dryer / hot air gun / jet engine after the sanding. If there’s any grease on the rim the paint won’t adhere very well…

My g/f’s Muni will be sporting a new coat of glossy cherry red for CMW. It’s soooo shiny! Too bad I won’t have time to clear-coat it before the weekend… it’s got five coats of primer and four coats of color, though, so I’m sure it’ll last for a few days’ riding :slight_smile:

I say just spray away. If you have paint going halfway up your spokes then people will think you are artistic. It’s less work, too.

almost done!

it’s looking good, and it looks TOTALLY awesome in the dark.

really? that sounds like way to much paint. i dont think you want to build that high off your base

the more the merrier. the coats are rather light and i sand / wash / dry between every few coats for better adhesion, so some of the paint comes off anyways.

for that “show car finish” it’s gonna take at least three iterations of paint / cure / sand / polish… that’ll end up being over a dozen coats on top of the primer base. some show cars can have a dozen or more coats of clear gloss alone.

i know the shine ain’t gonna last forever but this is for the missus… and you know how girls like shiny things… i figure if i do this right i can buy me an extra year on that ring she wants :stuck_out_tongue:

I’m with you. That woud look cool.

Is it glow-in-the-dark paint or have you just done a shit job? :wink:

Post up some pics when your done.

T.

glow in the dark paint.

i’m almost done. I just need to find a suitable stencil for the side.

how will that look when It’s not dark?

Hopefully not that pale green.

would you mind explaining this process a little bit more? i am painting my trials frame soon and wanna do it well.

no, i wouldn’t mind at all…

but first, check out this case modder’s site on how to achieve a “show car” paint job (be sure to read parts one and two): how-to, part one

as the site says, the first key to a good paint job is preparation. of the process, the preparation takes the most amount of labor, by far.

1st – you’ll need to completely strip the existing paint from the frame… the fastest and best way to do this is to sandblast the frame… ask your local paint or machine shop if they’ve got the equipment and if they’ll do it for ya… it shouldn’t cost much.

if this isn’t a possibility, the second best way to go is to get a wire wheel and attach it to some sort of hand-held rotary tool such as a die grinder, buffer or drill. it’ll take an hour or two but you want take the frame down to bare metal.

2nd – now you want to clean the frame of any residue, grease, etc. wash the frame with soap and water… dish soap is fine… although if you’re paranoid that the frame is really greasy you can wipe it down with a solvent such as kerosene before the wash.

rinse it well and let it dry in the sun. completely, bone dry. if you want to be sure it’s dry, you can put it in your oven and bake it at 200-250 degrees for 5 minutes or so… just remember to use oven mitts when taking it out of the oven!

3rd – set up your frame for painting: un-bend a wire coat hanger and find a way to attach it to the frame such that it’s out of the way. the KH frames have a little hole (the size of a BB) at the bottom of the seat tube… i straightened the hanger, sent it through the hole, then bent the end to resemble a small hook. you could also use a brake mount or bearing holder to hang the frame by. now hang the frame such that it’s a few feet off the ground so you can spray it from many different angles.

make sure you have a clean area to work in, free of dust and debris. lay a ground cloth down to catch the overspray and trap any fallen dust. it’s best to paint when it’s cool (65 - 80 deg F) and dry (not foggy or misty or humid), otherwise the paint may not adhere very well, or it will take a long time to dry. it’s also best to paint in still air… wind may cause your spray to go all over the place, and even worse, it may kick up dust that will stick to your paint.

i painted my frame in my garage, leaving the front and back doors cracked a little for ventilation. even with a ground cloth, everything in the garage got a fine mist of paint on it! cover EVERYTHING in your work area that you don’t want getting dirty, dusty or painted. that includes you! wear full-length pants, shirt, a hat, shoes, AND A FACE MASK. you will be breathing paint otherwise and it will stick to your nose, throat, etc. bad stuff.

4th – primer time! make sure to put your first few coats of primer down soon after you’ve dried the frame… otherwise your frame might start rusting and you’ll have to start over with your prep! use an etching primer, such as rustoleum, which eats through surface oxidation and binds directly to the metal.

apply two or more VERY VERY THIN coats… it’s okay to see bare metal under your first or second THIN coats… just wait and do more coats. if you spray too much at once the paint will run, clump up, etc. and it’ll look bad. if you do this, don’t worry, wait at least 48 hrs. for the paint to dry, sand down the clumps and start over (make sure to rinse and dry every time you sand!). make sure to get paint everywhere, underneath the seat post, around the bearing holders (don’t put too much paint UNDER the bearing holders!), around the crown, etc.

when you paint, hold the can 1 - 2 feet from the frame and hit the frame with little blasts of paint. wait 3-5 minutes between each THIN coat… 10 mins max… otherwise you’ll have to wait at least 48 hrs for your next coat(s). four or five coats should do… although when you re-sand the frame (step 6 below) that’ll tell you how well you coated it, and what spots you may have missed!

5th – WAIT. when you’re done painting you prolly want to check it to see if it’s dry, or move it around, or whatever, but you really shouldn’t. moving the wet frame will likely get more dust on it. touching the frame will leave fingerprints… handle it only by the hanger if you must, but it’s best just to let it sit (make sure it has some ventilation) for at least 24 hrs. before you move it and at least 48 hrs. before you touch it.

MAKE SURE YOU WASH YOUR HANDS (or use clean gloves) BEFORE TOUCHING THE FRAME!!! Until you’ve got your last coat of paint on the frame, you don’t want to get the frame dirty… it could ruin your finish!

6th – successive coats: you may want to follow with several coats of color then again with several coats of clear gloss (or flat) depending on the desired finish. you’ll first want to sand and clean the existing surface… at least 48 hrs. after the previous coat, rub the frame down with some fine sandpaper (~400 grit or higher) or some fine steel wool (better).

don’t rub too hard, you’ll take all the paint off! you just want to smooth the existing surface of any irregularities and provide the next coat with a rough-ish surface on which to bond. make sure to rub every part of the frame you painted a little, then rinse the frame well (rub it with your hands or a soft cloth while rinsing) and let dry. you want to get all the grit you sanded off the frame! don’t use an oven or hot air gun to accelerate the drying at this point (ordinary paint can’t handle temps higher than 250 deg F), but if you’re really impatient you can use a hair dryer on a low setting.

you’re ready for your next coat(s)! have at it! paint it as much as you like! if you want that showroom shine, put several coats of clear gloss on top, then rub the frame down with a buffing / polishing compound (see the link above for advice and pictures)… rinse it clean then give it a coat of turtle wax. WOW that’s shiny!

awesome thanks alot!

Re: Advice for painting rim

maestro8 <maestro8@NoEmail.Message.Poster.at.Unicyclist.com> writes:

> unisteez wrote:
>
> 2nd – now you want to clean the frame of any residue, grease, etc.
> wash the frame with soap and water… dish soap is fine… although if
> you’re paranoid that the frame is really greasy you can wipe it down
> with a solvent such as kerosene before the wash.

I’m not expert at painting, but wouldn’t acetone be a better choice
than kerosene? A quick wipe with (lint-free?) rag dipped in acetone
after rinsing might be a good idea. Acetone is a good solvent and
also a good drying agent.

> 6th – successive coats: you may want to follow with several coats of
> color then again with several coats of clear gloss (or flat) depending
> on the desired finish.

I understand that some finishes are made to look flat by the use of
additives. In woodworking, it is common to use gloss for all coats
except the last. I don’t know if this appies to the type of paint you
are using.

Ken