Yes, I found myself in this group. Frankly, this applies to my weak leg to a lesser extent, but this leg can still be attributed to this group too ( up to 25 idles for weak leg).
Hukuma,
I like that you emphasize practicing on the âweak legâ.
It is usually not a matter of strength but preference and coordination.
Also, a commitment to âworkâ on that side.
When we learn a trick there is usually a great feeling of satisfaction that you can just do the trick, and then move onto the next trick to learn.
However, demanding to learn to the trick all over again on the other foot.
Well, that is not so exciting.
In theory, since we already mastered the trick on one side we âshould know mentallyâ how to apply the âskillâ on the one side to the other side. Instead of just âdoing itâ over and over again. This is where some thought of the mechanics is very helpful.
I enjoy doing SIF idling, but I can only do it one sided. I know to learn on the other foot or side, it will require hundreds of attempts until I âfind that feelâ. However, I am committed to doing that when I have more time. It will be very boring and if other people see me doing this. I will look like a total beginner. Also, the temptation to go and just ride/enjoy for many kilometers or miles is always calling me.
âŚslam
1 Like
I am here, mostly. I have been idling in a spot where I canât turn lately, and I keep getting overweight to one side and have to dismount, usually towards my top foot.
I noticed just now that if I allow my self to twist slightly clockwards at the at the 9? oâclock position (top foot behind me), I wonât fall off, but then again, I start turning slightly around. I actually feel that freezing at the 9? Oâclock position makes things easier than when I just keep idling continuously.
Sure. But, nevertheless i will give a couple of examples, not just on tricks, but rather on skills.
-
Freemount. The mechanics of performing it in one direction are the same as in the other, but it is not inherited automatically, a separate training is required. But it is enough to be able to reliably freemount in one direction and you can stop with training at this point.
-
90 degrees turning. Hereâs the same situation with automatical inheritance. It doesnât work to its full potential and, again, separate training is required, and this time it is quite necessary. (of course, you can turn 270 degrees in other direction instead of 90 in the planned one if you donât want to train for both sides
) -
As to idling, this is an open question. The answer depends of what you need this idling for. If you need this one as it is (eg. just to fun or show), one side will be enough. If you a going to use it as preliminary skill for, say, riding backwards, it is desirable to master it for both sides.
Hello Hukuma,
I need to comment on this, because I have seen this come up now/then.
This is outside our subject of Advanced Idling, but this will help me understand my audience and possibly help others âcatch upâ to us.
I was assuming that everybody in this topic string has advanced ability to just ride.
That includes turning.
I was also assuming everybody can âride slowâ and turn with no speed. In either direction.
If any of you out there has an issue with âturningâ please comment with your limitations, capabilities and what you do to improve.
âŚslam.
These were just general poring about the need for symmetry in various skills. I apologize for the offtopic.
Yesterday, I tried to idle with my hands behind my back on my 20er. More difficult than I hoped for, but I made up to about 7 (or 14, depending how you count) idle movements before having to flail around to help with balance.
As a different exercise, I tried to minimise the pedal movement. Normally I move the upper pedal from around 10 oâclock to 2 oâclock. Tried somewhat successfully to stay within 11 to 1 oâclock. To be precise, my idling is not symmetrical, the upper pedal moves less to the front than it moves to the rear.
Then I tried to idle with the pedals around the horizontal position, instead of vertical. That was pretty much impossible for me.
2 Likes
Hey Wheelou,
Hereâs an exercise that will develop confidence holding the âflat pedalâ position.
Assuming you have the ability to do the âbunny hopâ trick.
(if not, we can take a few steps back and possibly work on that, too. Or, if anyone out there is interested)
So hereâs the exercise:
1.) From idle or free mount go forward with a half rotation to âflat crankâ position.
2.) At âflat crankâ do a wheel freeze or brake. You should have max weight on pedals.
3.) During this âpauseâ rise up slowly or do a hop.
4.) Then from âflat pedalâ rotate slowly for another half rotation to âflat pedalâ again, but this time lead foot will be âother footâ.
5.) Again, again,âŚagain.
If youâve ever ridden on âbumpyâ tall grass where you must âfeelâ the ground, you probably did this. Just cautiously riding âhalf wheel turnâ at a time. At the 3 oâclock position the front foot has the most leverage, but also you have to âcatch itâ and stop when it comes around the back. Give it a try.
âŚslam
Will try that one of these days.
That reminds me somehow of that moment when I freemount and the wheel is standing still, while we (the uni and I) slowly move past the center of balance. Once Iâm far enough in front of that balancing point I then start to pedal. During the last month or so I noted multiple times that I started to genuinely enjoy that moment, whereas until then I used to keep it as short as possible in order to get the uni moving âŚmoving uni is so much easier to control than a standing one. But that moment feels as if time stood still, and the world stopped turning. Itâs really pretty awesome.
2 Likes
Excellent description Wheelou
What you describe to me is the moment you are in total, absolute, unquestioned control.
You feel your balance point, and it will obey your every command.
Then at the right moment you âpress downâ on the pedal and go with a burst of torque.
Itâs kinda like catching a wave in surfing or dropping into a deep bowl at a skatepark.
Also, this feel/control/stop & go pedaling is absolutely necessary for steep uphill riding.
You pump, pause, tip/hurl your body forwards(not too much, not too little, just perfect amount). Kinda feels like you are climbing a ladder one foot at a time.
Keep onâŚslam
1 Like
After a short lunch ride I thought Iâd take advantage of the clear skies to take a quick progress video. Pardon the âsparklesâ; Iâd carefully set my camera to crop out my address, and then captured the serial numbers on my city trash bins instead 
. No idea whether they could actually be used for any sort of trolling etc but might as well not risk it.
For contrast, hereâs the last such video I took back in August; ~6 months ago:
I think Iâve gotten a fair bit more controlled and relaxed, but of course thereâs still room for improvement.
Iâve found trying to keep most of my weight off the top foot works best for me for a relaxed and efficient idle, though occasionally use it for corrections or keep some weight on it for maximum control.
For getting more weight into the seat I remembered a mental trick from when I started riding in the first place - focus on lifting the (bottom) foot up with the pedal as the pedal comes up.
3 Likes
Unitort,
I definitely see more deliberate rhythm and a slightly faster tempo in your latest.
You know where to expect the body to be at the end of the forward and backward points.
In your older video, it looks like you are surprised by the backwards stall a few times, and it looks like you even rise off the saddle to apply more pedal weight to stop and return. That is not a bad thing. However, that becomes less necessary when you âknow/expectâ the rock back and just âlean forwardâ into it.
I also see more upper body and hip involvement. As you generate more momentum from this you will find your legs relaxing more and use less energy.
The top of the âpendulum pointâ which is your head seems to be more stationary in your most recent video. Good jobâŚkeep on.
âŚslam
Also, another tip to âforceâ your body to rely less on hands & shoulders.
Place your hands on top of your leg. Start thinking about pedal pressure.
If you need your hands, they will be there.
1 Like
https://disk.yandex.ru/d/Rb1BDCEcZ4szYg
Here is my exercise with 20". No success, much arm flailing and twisting of hips and upper body. 
Will continue, no other wayâŚ
Any advice?
I donât think that looks bad at all!
So you find idling on a 20" more difficult than on a bigger wheel? I perceive it just the other way round; I like the agility of the smaller wheel and am always fighting with the inertia of bigger, heavier wheels. 36" is of course the worst.
Perhaps it is because iâm slower due to my age. For me the best of my unies is 24" wheel with 3" wide tyre and 145 mm cranks. But i have no 24" white tire for this white carpet and itâs too slippery and dirty outside now. So I do this indoor with 20".
1 Like
Hello Huku,
Thank you for your video.
I was analyzing it. My observations:
1.) Your head position is âstationaryâ. That is very good. It is like holding a string and pendulum swinging. The âholdingâ point is your head and the pendulum is the unicycle.
2.) When you need âquick recoveryâ I see your hip go into action. Good.
3.) One more pedal backwards and you will go out the window. Ha⌠No problem. You have no fear. I see no broken furniture. In such a small space, there is no margin for error.
I think you are doing excellent. Continue what you are doing.
Here are a few tips that I would suggest might help, also:
a.) Lower the seat a little bit. This will make your legs work harder and âbecomeâ stronger. High seat is okay for âefficiencyâ for long rides, but we want more âmuscle involvement and controlâ.
b.) Practice in a doorway, because once you get âtiredâ you will make mistakes. A doorway will give you a quick hand grip.
c.) Always wear the same shoes and pants/shorts, because the âfeelâ will always be identical.
d.) Also, keep tire pressure at maximum for âfastest responseâ of the unicycle to your body response. You will notice this when pressure is low.
e.) Also, if you feel difference in idling between 20" unicycle vs. 24" unicycle. Do you have identical length cranks? From my experience that is the biggest factor. It changes your sense of timing, which feels very strange.
âŚenjoy winter workoutâŚslam
Hi, Slam,
Thank you for such a detailed analysis
I will try. We shall see what is changed.
This is a controversial point. On one hand, yes, this is an insurance. On the other hand, this provokes one to grab hold of support instead of trying to correct the mistake. There is a risk of developing a false pattern of behavior, eh? Anyway, I will try.
Sure. And itâs not just about responsiveness. As I noticed, at low pressure, lateral stability deteriorates. Indeed, itâs the time to pump up the tire. Thanks.
I have 114mm cranks on 20" uni vs 145mm ones on the 24" uni. I think that is a big difference from the viewpoint of control.
Thanks again.