About to go buy a KH24...

Ok well i figured i’d go ahead and add to my KH collection and add a kh24 along side my kh20.

So, now this is mainly gonna be used for muni, like riding on some trails and what not.

Should i get the brake? Some say it is useful some say that you will out grow it and not use it much at all…

Crank size…should i go with the 150’s or 165’s… I have 127’s on my kh20 if that helps anyone out with this question… I’m not sure which size will be better for trail riding. I suppose the 150s will be a little faster and the 165s will make the climbs alittle easier. What do most people have?

Is the tire decent that comes stock or should i go ahead and replace it with the Gazz?

Anyother words of advice anyone can add?

get the brake if you plan on doing super steep technicals. the tire is super fine, just wear it out and then replace with whatever you want. go with the 165’s if you like technical stuff, drops, jumps and all that north shore type technical stuff and the 150’s if you want to go faster (ie you do lots of not so technical stuff ( the boring stuff ))

150mm cranks gives you a pretty much equivalent “gear ratio” than the 127mm cranks on your 20"; factor in that the wheel’s bigger too, and you should be able to ride substantially more difficult terrain than you can on the 20".

fwiw, I have a KH24 “XC” with 150s, and find the gear way too low to actually go anywhere (!); I haven’t found much in the way of decent terrain round here, tho, and spend most of my time riding a 20" with 80mm cranks… I think, however, that instead of the 24/150, what I’d want would be the combination of a 20" trials uni and something more like the Nimbus 26, or maybe even the KH 29er. The 24" seems like an awkward midpoint, big and awkward for trialsy stuff but doesn’t have the speed of a 26" or 29". WTF people want even longer cranks for, I don’t understand…

This opinion is likely to be somewhat controversial, tho. Most people’ll tell you there’s a world of difference between your 20" trials and a 24" muni, no need to go to anything even bigger/more different still, and it’s a popular machine with the long cranks, too :-).

[Roger, from UDC, did say the KH24 XC, 150mm cranks, was his favourite of the KH machines, tho.]

HTH, Alan.

I like the duro 3.0. I had been using 150’s for the longest time, but recently switched to 175’s, and climbing is waaaay easier, and as for speed, I still can move at a decent clip, but speed is not an issue for me as muni is concerned. And I have maguras on my muni; they look cool and do help take the strain off my quads on steep decents.

brakes are for whimps, seriously i think haveing a break on a unicycle is the stupidest thing in the world

Maybe. It’s not essential. I had a brake for a while, I’ve now taken it off (mainly because I wanted it on my bike instead) and quite enjoyed riding without it - it’s more of a pure riding experience. Having said that, I may put a brake back on in the future. It can be added at any time if you decide you want one.

Definately one of those. Bear in mind that going out and riding lots will make more difference than 25mm of crank length. 150s reduce pedal strikes, by the way.
Don’t replace a tyre that you’ve never ridden. Ride it with whatever comes. If, after a while, you think the tyre is really holding you back (once again, remembering that riding more is generally more effective than a new tyre), then either get a new one when it wears out, or change it.

John

i have a KH 24 with a the brake. id say get it. I use it off and on. Some trails and descents are immpossible without a brake…so just get it. Plus they look kewler with brakes.

and ppl can’t go wheres ya brake, and other ppl go, “ooooww magura”

I ride a kh24, and the hills around here are quite steep. I ride them without a brake no problem. I would only get brakes if the hills are really, realllly long ones. I actually enjoy fighting against my pedals as I go down a hill (it’s a different workout than climbing).

I have 175 mm cranks, and they are great for uphills, but they suck for all other riding. I tried some 150’s on the weekend, and they were perfect.

[/QUOTE

[QUOTE=Tim Morin]
I ride a kh24, and the hills around here are quite steep. I ride them without a brake no problem. I would only get brakes if the hills are really, realllly long ones. I actually enjoy fighting against my pedals as I go down a hill (it’s a different workout than climbing).

I have 175 mm cranks, and they are great for uphills, but they suck for all other riding. I tried some 150’s on the weekend, and they were perfect.
[/QUOTE

How do the 175’s “suck for all other riding?” Is it a speed issue? Is hopping, dropping, gapping harder for you with the longer cranks? I use 175’s on my muni AND I also have maguras. I used to have 150’s, but hill climbing was considerably more difficult. Since I’m not a speed demon, I’m not concerned with going a
little
faster with 150’s.

I ran 150s without a brake for several hundred miles, over all manner of terrain. The only time they caused problems was on extremely steep downhill…This trail in particular. It’s much harder to keep from crossing into the “spinning out of control” territory when downhill lines approach vertical on 150s.

Other than that, I had zero problems going brakeless. Some of my rides included 15 mile loops with a 7400-foot elevation change. I never came close to losing control on any part of those rides.

In the picture I linked to above, Kris is using 150s…but he also has a brake. I’ve found that I can tackle much of the same terrain without a brake with 165s, but pedal strikes become more frequent, and pedalling through smooth sections is a bit more tedious.

In the end, all that really matters is doing what works best for you.

How do the 175’s “suck for all other riding?” Is it a speed issue? Is hopping, dropping, gapping harder for you with the longer cranks? I use 175’s on my muni AND I also have maguras. I used to have 150’s, but hill climbing was considerably more difficult. Since I’m not a speed demon, I’m not concerned with going a little faster with 150’s.

Brakes, you dont need them, even when doing super steep stuff.

When I do muni, even though its on my trials, I do some of the steepest things I have ever seen, one time it was a straight drop for at least 7 feet, probably higher, cause I am close to 6 feet, and the ledge was a few feet higher than that, then after the drop, you hit a very technical path of roots and baby trees that I gotta avoid, those baby trees need to live!

Lots of my muni are actually finding the steepest most challenging section and bombing them, its great fun, the 20inch wheel makes my control even harder to control, its all squirly and all over the place, but I can control it, brakes are just useless to me, specailyl when I try to stop, but I skid for about 5 feet, the catch traction agian and have to pedal, I wouldnt want to ruin that with expensive brakes.

what does th kh24 come with stock (crank lenght)

I run a brake on one unicycle I use for muni (29/45 geared) and no brakes on the other (26").

On a 24/26 with 150s and no brake, you can ride down pretty much anything you could comfortably walk down. For short very steep downhills, like 10 metres or so, you can spin out and ride those. I’ve seen Kris ride with brakes and can see why he needs them. He uses them for riding down sustained hills that there’s no way you could just walk down. They are good on that really steep stuff because you can keep traction on it. Remember when you see him riding super-steep on the videos it’s probably even more steep due to the camera flattening out.

The only problem with riding a brake from the start is that if you’re using a brake, you might not learn to descend well brakeless, and might end up relying on it too much, which is a bit of a problem for your riding, and leads to boring pretend riding on the flat downhilling, which is great until you hit some more technical downhill where use of the brake is restricted, and you haven’t learnt to spin out in a controlled manner, or to fight the rolling.

As far as cranks and tyres go, I ride 26x150 usually and have ridden 26x170, with practice you can spin fast on 170s, although not quite so fast, but like John said, practice will make you able to ride down stuff on 150s. Tyre wise, they’re both fine tyres, a lot of people prefer one or the other, but it’s by no means a consensus on the gazz being better, so don’t bother trying the gazz until the original tyre wears out.

The main thing to remember is that with any of the decent setups like the KH munis, if you can’t get down something, unless you’re at the skill level of Kris or someone like that, there’s a really high chance that it’s your skill, not your equipment that are holding you back. We saw a humbling instance of skill vs. equipment in Dartmoor, watching Tom, who is 8 and was riding a 20" with a skinny tyre, and was bombing down the rocky downhills equally fast to many of the less skillful riders on proper munis.

Joe

I run a brake on one unicycle I use for muni (29/45 geared) and no brakes on the other (26").

On a 24/26 with 150s and no brake, you can ride down pretty much anything you could comfortably walk down. For short very steep downhills, like 10 metres or so, you can spin out and ride those. I’ve seen Kris ride with brakes and can see why he needs them. He uses them for riding down sustained hills that there’s no way you could just walk down. They are good on that really steep stuff because you can keep traction on it. Remember when you see him riding super-steep on the videos it’s probably even more steep due to the camera flattening out.

The only problem with riding a brake from the start is that if you’re using a brake, you might not learn to descend well brakeless, and might end up relying on it too much, which is a bit of a problem for your riding, and leads to boring pretend riding on the flat downhilling, which is great until you hit some more technical downhill where use of the brake is restricted, and you haven’t learnt to spin out in a controlled manner, or to fight the rolling.

As far as cranks and tyres go, I ride 26x150 usually and have ridden 26x170, with practice you can spin fast on 170s, although not quite so fast, but like John said, practice will make you able to ride down stuff on 150s. Tyre wise, they’re both fine tyres, a lot of people prefer one or the other, but it’s by no means a consensus on the gazz being better, so don’t bother trying the gazz until the original tyre wears out.

The main thing to remember is that with any of the decent setups like the KH munis, if you can’t get down something, unless you’re at the skill level of Kris or someone like that, there’s a really high chance that it’s your skill, not your equipment that are holding you back. We saw a humbling instance of skill vs. equipment in Dartmoor, watching Tom, who is 8 and was riding a 20" with a skinny tyre, and was bombing down the rocky downhills equally fast to many of the less skillful riders on proper munis.

Joe

I run a brake on one unicycle I use for muni (29/45 geared) and no brakes on the other (26").

On a 24/26 with 150s and no brake, you can ride down pretty much anything you could comfortably walk down. For short very steep downhills, like 10 metres or so, you can spin out and ride those. I’ve seen Kris ride with brakes and can see why he needs them. He uses them for riding down sustained hills that there’s no way you could just walk down. They are good on that really steep stuff because you can keep traction on it. Remember when you see him riding super-steep on the videos it’s probably even more steep due to the camera flattening out.

The only problem with riding a brake from the start is that if you’re using a brake, you might not learn to descend well brakeless, and might end up relying on it too much, which is a bit of a problem for your riding, and leads to boring pretend riding on the flat downhilling, which is great until you hit some more technical downhill where use of the brake is restricted, and you haven’t learnt to spin out in a controlled manner, or to fight the rolling.

As far as cranks and tyres go, I ride 26x150 usually and have ridden 26x170, with practice you can spin fast on 170s, although not quite so fast, but like John said, practice will make you able to ride down stuff on 150s. Tyre wise, they’re both fine tyres, a lot of people prefer one or the other, but it’s by no means a consensus on the gazz being better, so don’t bother trying the gazz until the original tyre wears out.

The main thing to remember is that with any of the decent setups like the KH munis, if you can’t get down something, unless you’re at the skill level of Kris or someone like that, there’s a really high chance that it’s your skill, not your equipment that are holding you back. We saw a humbling instance of skill vs. equipment in Dartmoor, watching Tom, who is 8 and was riding a 20" with a skinny tyre, and was bombing down the rocky downhills equally fast to many of the less skillful riders on proper munis.

Joe

Freeride comes with 165’s.

all 24in KH’s now come with 150’s as per Kris Holm’s request… you must ask for the 165’s and they will replace them for you. that is what i was told today when i ordered my new 24 with 165s.

i’ll pick it up on friday. I’m pretty excited :slight_smile:

Oh yeah, i skipped out on the brake…maybe i will get it later.

John

Hmmm, they must’ve just changed that because a friend of mine ordered a new KH freeride not more than a month ago and it came standard with 165’s. Do you why Kris made that request? Pedal strikes? Too slow? What?:smiley: