whats thew length of the seatpost on this KH20 Trials? (I’m 13 and I think the seat post will be too long) how far can the seat post be inserted into the unicycle insert thing?
when do you use 1 hand and when do yu use 2 hands for side hops?
I bought a KH20 trials and all i sent them were the CHEQUE, ORDER NUM, and my ADDRESS. will anything go wrong? what happens if it does? (i sent teh chequelast thursday and the Mal from UDCA said the kh should be here by this friday (2days of shipping it here) so therefore they shouldve recieved the cheque today(in my invoice/acc it sais “waiting fo payment” (its wednes day today and its evening)
all unis require the seatpost to be cut down before you can ride it, so it maikes no difference
people rarely, if ever, use both hands to hold the handle
3.if stuff goes wrong UDC will sort it no problems, chillax
you unbolt the lower bearing clamp and bolt it on there. it will only work if the bearings are the right size, and teh tyre is the right size. This means it probably won’t work on a KH.
whats…
DM - David Mariner
Hunter - Hand-made quality frames
Miyata - good saddles
Pashley - british bike manafacturer
Schwinn
Telford
Zephr
all unicycle manafactureres, mostly no longer producing unis
OOW? on one wheel, an old uni magazine published by the unicycling society of america
WOW?
RTUC?
TCUC? twin cities unicycle club
only if someone is selling a used trials uni, the ones advertised on there as new trials unis usually have the weak square taper hub that will die if you hop alot on it
the bearings are pressed on to the axle and are what the frame connects to. They allow your wheel to spin with little friction.
Of the four unis I’ve owned, I’ve not had to cut ANY of the seatposts. The seatpost on my 20" Sun learner was almost too short, but it held up fine. I eventually got a longer one, in fear of the short one snapping/bending, though.
I’m just under 6 feet (182 centimeters) tall, maybe that has something to do with it.
Ok,
now it comes down to the seatpost cutting situation…
as someone said dont use a razor metal cutterthing (i won’t) and dont use a tube cutter (my dad is a good hardware, shed, tool, handyman knda guy that likes his shed and tool boxes lol and he said i should use th tube cutter cos it rounds thebit of the end that you cut off…
and someone said go to the bike shop and let them cut it (well they would probably use a tube cutter or something…
and i still dont know how long the seat post is on the kh
yes use the tube cutter, gives a nice smoothe finish. Take it slow, cut off several small pieces so you don’t cut it too short, you can’t go back if you do. If you really need to know, it’s 350mm long (this information is on UDC), but unless you’re very tall you can assume it’s going to fit you.
nothing, except you have to file the burs off it and finish the inside with a rat-tail. Both are perfectly good, but given the option the tube cutter is preferable.
Yes, I agree, however some tubing cutters are only designed for copper, and may not be strong enough to cut steel (it could break the cutter). The tubing cutters that I have available to me are designed for copper and pvc, and would not hold up to steel. If you try the cutter and it does not appear to be working, don’t force it to much! Good luck!
The other thing w/ using a hacksaw is it’s hard to cut it streight accross.
What I did is I put marks on the post every inch w/ an old seraten knife. Then I put it in the frame w/ one of the marks barely showing and put a line all the way aroung the post w/ the knife or saw. Take the post out, put it in a vise and cut off just an inch at a time untill it feels right (this should leave enough if you later realize you cut off an inch too much and lots of room to adjust as you grow).
Cut might be crooked (aesthetically bad, otherwise not a problem)
Lots of energy required (or mine’s really dull)
Careful not to crush the seatpost in your vice
Less filing required than with pipe cutter, in my experience
Pipe cutter:
Must be heavy duty to safely hold up. I’ve broken several cheap ones! Now I have a nice one that’s supposed to be able to cut steel (I’ve used it on alloy so far)
Much easier to use, long as you do it right
Straight cut
In my experience, more filing is needed to make safe edges when finished (esp. on the inside)
When cutting, your goal is to have as much post as will fit into the uni when you have it at it’s lowest setting. Remember, longer cranks means lower seat, but if you go shorter in the future, you have to raise the seat. Also if different-sized people are going to ride your uni from time to time.
DM, Hunter, Miyata, Pashley, Schwinn, Telford, Zephr: all brands of unicycle or unicycle builder. Search on them for more info.
OOW: On One Wheel, quarterly publication from the Unicycling Society of America. Membership’s open to anyone.
WOW, RTUC, TCUC: American unicycle clubs. Search on them for more info.
It might not make a massive difference, but for some absolute weight weenies weight is also worth thinking about when you’re cutting the post. 100mm less of aluminium seatpost = roughly 70g of weight savings (this is the reason for the difference in weight between the KH seatposts (long) and the koxx lightweight seatposts (short) ).
Also, is it just me who has never filed off the end of a post - I’ve always just pipe cuttered it and left it, I don’t think my posts are particularly sharp or anything, I can run my finger against them and it doesn’t cut me.
