hell ya, I already did, 9 miles in the mud 
Hells ya! Every day. I don’t even consider it true Muni unless you do lots of climbing! I love it. Just “shuttling” all the time to me is like only doing half the ride…oh wait, it’s exactly like doing only half the ride, haha! And I don’t think it’s my “opinion” that my setup is lighter, but fact. The SW CF base, DG handle/bumper and thompson seat post are way lighter and much stronger/rigid than the solid, heavy plastic parts, and also I lose that heavy steel rail adaptor. It all adds up to LESS weight overall than it was before. Also, I believe that the duro is lighter than the gazz. 
the duro is lighter than the gazz 
YEah I figured it was. Thanks! Do you know the difference in weight?
Hmm…I’m actually going to debate this. The duro has much thicker sidewalls, and though I can’t find numbers for the 24" version, on the 26" version, the duro is 200g heavier.
And Terry, I think you misunderstood me. I agree that the LM rim is good for muni. I rode John’s uni too, and it’s pretty awesome 
. However, I was simply contesting your statement that the LM’s extra weight was insignificant (Just clearing things up…not trying to start arguing again). If I had the money and KH, I’d love a rim that big.
So Joseph, let us know if we’ve got you totally confused by now. 
No problem Tod. And I was just saying that overall my new setup is actually lighter overall, mostly because the cf components and the elimination of that heavy rail adaptor kindof even things out. And whether the duro is heavier or lighter than the gazz, it sure turns better! So using the duro instead of the gazz on the LM may also make the difference in maneuverability minimal.
The LM rim provides a different kind of ride for which your riding style (mine did, anyway) quickly grows accustomed. Once you get used to the stability, it´s so hard to go back to the lighter but far twitchier, narrower rims that I do not know a single person who has. That much said, a KH drilled rim can surely handle the gnarliest terrain out there, though it has a totally different feel. Styles differ . . .
JL
I have and will continue to carefully read every post.
Please continue with suggestions and opinions.
#1.Looks like there is a toss up between rims. I will probably stick with a smaller rim considering I weigh 147 pounds as of 5 minutes ago. I will start with the gazz tire. if I start folding the tire over while jumping I will think about upgrading to a wider rim.
I have a few questions so far.
#2 Can I pick and choose the parts that I want to keep on the kris holm 24 incher when I order it?
#3 Also, Is it available to order now? (is it in stock?)
#4 Qfactor, we discussed cranks. What about the axle’s/hub’s part in the qfactor? which is the narrowist axle seating so that the cranks get really close to the frame?
I don’t think any splined hubs have q-factor to them. Also, just stick with a stock Kris Holm 24" Freeride w/ a Duro tire. It’ll never let you down, and it’s only 450-560 depending on where you get it. I have one and I would never trade it for anything. Also as far as stock goes, QBP now stocks KH, so like every bike shop has the capacity to order KH24s. I got mine for $440 at my LBS. Have fun MUniing
Q-factor is the side-to side measurement between your feet. You have to count the full measurement, or just the angle in the cranks would be meaningless. My Profile cranks definitely have Q in them, as do the new Moments. I think only the older, ankle-biting cranks didn’t have any Q. Even my DM’s cranks (the first splined unicycle on the market) have Q.
I agree. Just buy the whole unicycle, ride it, and then go from there. It’ll be much easier to form opinions about what you want after you’ve ridden something as a starting point.
the k1 reinforced cranks are advertised as having no Q-factor, but then again they’re also advertised as ISIS…
Hahaha, that’s the truth, nothin’ against Koxx, but that is on big mess-up on their part. 
No, what he was talking about is that the HUB had Q-factor, not the cranks, but every hub I’ve ridden on had no Q-factor, only the cranks did.
Q-factor is the distance between your pedals. I’m pretty sure every hub you’ve ridden on has had width; if the width is > 0, that’s part of the Q-factor.
HEre’s my “Serious” muni! Just got 'er back from the LBS where the LM rim was laced to the KH/Isis hub. SW maggie brake extenders on there too. Now just waiting for the CF saddle components from SW! Yippie!
Btw, this Muni maneuvers even better than before; maybe it’s becasue of the Rounder tread design of the duro vs. the more square gazz. But some ppl said that the super wide LM rim would make turning more difficult, and that’s totally not so, at least on my Muni.
This is what I am saying about the qfactor in the hub/axle.
anyone know who has the narrowist axle?
You don’t necessarily want a narrow axle…as that makes a weaker wheel.
Wider hub=Stronger wheel…and a strong wheel is very important for a “serious muni”.
well then, most hubs have 100mm Q-Factor to them (the distance between flanges). (I think)
Although causing more wheel wobble at high speed, I’ve read more Q-factor increases control at moderat to slow speeds.
I’m pretty sure that most, if not all splined hubs have a 100 mm. bearing spacing, making the only thing that would make more/less Q-factor is the cranks.