But there’s play in it. The removal splined axle rotates inside the hub slighly before engaging. The axle has two bits of metal which are removable which is what fixes the axle to the hub body but they don’t ‘seem’ to be worn.
I’ve noted that the spacers between the bearings and cranks are missing, but I wouldn’t of thought it would be causing the play.
any ideas people?
I’m thinking of building a new wheel and I want to know what crank arm length is suggested for unicycle trials (19" wheel). My current uni has 125mm cranks, but I think some people have 140mm! Comments please.
the hub pictured isn’t a KH/Onza, it’s an onza, there’s a difference. The keyway slop you described is a well known problem with the onza hub. You can remove the axle and put enough glue in place to keep the keyway in place properly. Many people have done this and it proves to be a good and longlasting solution. Use the search feature to find descriptions of how to do this to your hub.
I understand most trials riders use 135 -140mm cranks, some people prefer slightly shorter cranks for more spped for rolling hops, but they are the exception.
and 4. the onza came first, then the Kh/Onza, then the KH moment. Each one was better than the last, so the KH moment is the hub/crankset of choice, it’s stronger, stiffer, lighter and cheaper than the older models.
The cranks are similar, infact you can swap them with each other, I should imagine some have been broken, infact my good friend loosemoose snapped one on his onza trials, and had the problem with the loose keyway on his onza muni. I can’t remember any others, but you must consider that in the hey-day of the onza cranks street riding hadn’t really been invented, people just didn’t break stuff like they did now. Also there was that issue with the 1.4mm thick versus 1.6mm KH/Onza cranks.
