6' Unicycle buying advice

I have a little over $200.00 and I want to buy a 6’ unicycle. The 6’ looks like alot more fun than a 5’.

I was planning to buy the savage with a seat upgrade but now unicycle.com does not sell it.
Why is this?

Is the Torker 5’ any good for a cheap giraffe?
I will be riding my new giraffe alot but I will try to be kind to it.

What is the best I can get in a giraffe for $215?

Am I right to shoot for the savage 6’?

The Savage 6’ has a 25.4 seatpost and a seat that is total crap!
The Savage 5’ has a 22.0 seatpost and, depending on wether or not you get any upgrades, a decent seat.

I learned to unicycle on a savage 5’. it held up well until i started learning the running mount (well over a year, for 4 hours a day), then I twisted the frame.

I own a savage 6’ as well. The original 5 frame has gone to the great re-cyclery in the sky. I don’t handle the 6 as well as a 5. It feels more sluggish and it’s definetley harder for me to feel the ground while riding.

I think also, that body size might have a little to do with my difficulty. I am only about 5’3" (or 4" on a tall day) and so my 6’ towers over me by 9 inches. Despite the fact that some people here believe that a 6’ is more impressive, I think that impressiveness has a lot more to do with riding style than height off the ground.

A giraffe is kind of limited due to the space required to mount it, the extra mass, and the fact that you are elevated off the ground a bit more than usual.

So. In response to your original question, yes, a Torker 5 is a good buy for a beginner. And if you totally trash it while you’re learning, no big deal, because if you like riding on a giraffe enough to continue, you’ll want to buy a nicer one anyway (or start upgrading components)

And if you really want a 6’, I’ve got one that has 1 busted spoke in the wheelset due to a bad weld, and the top tube has been shortened about 3" but otherwise is a great unicycle to learn on. If you’re interested, PM me.

I’m well over 6’ tall myself and I was wondering if the 5’ would really feel that much higher. I know this has been asked before but it has been a while.

Has anyone actually tried a Torker TX?

Thanks for the help Hopeful. I will take that into consideration.

Forrest,

I had a chance to try a Torker TX today, and I was not satisfied at all with it. On the top of my list of concerns is the lack of a welded cog onto the hub. It uses a lockring, and while a lockring setup is acceptable for a track bicycle, it tends not to work so well on a giraffe.

As soon as I felt it slip the first time, that ruined the whole unicycle for me. I really didn’t like the feel of it either. If I were you, I would buy a Savage if you want something cheap, or a Sem, if you want something that will last a while.

hope this helps,
Matt.

None of the other unicycles you mentioned have a welded on cog either. They all have the threaded cog with a lockring. Even the Sem has a threaded on cog with a lockring.

The first generation Schwinn giraffe unicycles also had a threaded on cog with a lockring. The second generation Schwinn’s used a bolt on cog. The second generation Schwinn’s are the only commercial giraffes that I know of that used something other than a threaded on cog and a lockring.

The welded on cog is an aftermarket modification. The unicycle didn’t come that way unless you bought it from Darren Bedford. Darren welds the cog to the hub on the giraffes that he sells.

The inexpensive giraffes use less expensive parts. One area where they skimp is in the quality of the cog and the sprocket. They will used stamped cogs and stamped sprockets. Stamped cogs will not be perfectly round and don’t have nicely machined threads that will hold the cog on the hub tight. High quality cogs and sprockets are CNC machined and are nicely round with nicely shaped teeth. But CNC machined cogs and sprockets are expensive.

The club I’m in has a black Torker TX giraffe. It works well. It’s not perfect, but it works very well considering it’s price. I would rate it better than the Savage. The Torker that you tried probably had a loose cog. You should Loctite the cog and tighten up before passing judgment on it. Once you’re happy that the cog is round enough you can have it welded on the hub and never have to worry about it slipping.

I own two five foot Savages. I’ve seen the Torkers. My next would definitely be a Torker. It has a nice paint job. An aluminum wheel and a much nicer seat for around $100.00 on e-bay.

Both of the savages that I own have welded-on cogs. I bought both of them from Unicycle.com. The do not appear to be welded onto a threaded section, but rather, onto a flat section with 4 spot welds. I’ll try to get photos sometime.

I’ve never had any problems with my Savages. Another guy that I know has a Savage 5’ as well and his cog is welded on too. It came from Unicycle.com as well.

I build a lot of custom unicycles and would like to give a word of caution about welding on a sprocket. Welding the two together is problematic because they’re both (almost always) made of different metals. That means you need a welder that knows what they’re doing. The heat can also distort your sprocket and/or knock it out of true. It can also melt or weaken an aluminum hub. The weld is likely to crack too, especially when two different types of metals are welded. All of these problems have caused me grief (and money) in the past. The only way I connect sprockets now is by bolting them on. If you do go with welding anyway, I’d recommend using TIG (presuming your hub is alumninum). Most hubs are aluminum, while cheap sprockets tend to be steel (better ones are aluminum). In any case, you need filler to get a decent weld to aluminum and you need to keep the heat down. You should also clean your surfaces with acetone first and then use etchant. Otherwise you’ll overheat the pieces trying to burn off the surface crud and everything will end up melting.