Ah genius idea thanks, and you’re right the wheel still tips to the right even when it’s placed backwards so there doesn’t seem to be anything wrong with the wheel - hoping you’re right about the warranty btw
I am going to throw my 2 cents into this as I have built a number of machines working in a manufacturing plant way back.
If the outer housing on a bearing is cracked or, chipped I would think it is a defect in the bearing. I do not think one could tighten a bearing holder tight enough to crack or chip a bearing. They are made of hardened steel and you can not cut one with your adverage hand saw. Even and air grinder with a cut off wheel has a hard time.
If you were to over tighten the bearing holder I think you are more apt to bend the bearing holder and not “crush” the bearing to the point it would not turn.
I was also going to suggest turning the wheel 180 degrees to see for miss alignment. Good idea.
i have not read everything but, my lbs told me when i had a 8 in my 29er that when wheels are shipped they sometimes tend to be really loose. Which can result in a untrue wheel after only riding it for a while.
Make sure that your wheel is not “dished.”
If it is slightly dished it should not be a problem. But it is easy to true a wheel and not pay attention to dhishing.
By the way I have always tightned the bearing holders to right befor the point where the wheel masively reduces its spinning.
In your case I’m feel pretty certain it’s a frame alignment problem.
It may be helpful to explain what wheel dishing is so that we are all on the same page as any bike shop we might go into. It is really hard to get the help you need when you don’t speak the same language.
You actually want to make sure that the dish of your wheel is correct. A wheel is dished correctly when the rim is centered between the bearings on a uni wheel, or the locknuts on a bicycle wheel. A unicycle wheel is much like a bicycle front wheel and needs to be dished symmetrically. The asymmetrical dishing of bicycle rear wheels is to allow space for a gear cluster, but the rim still sits dead center between the locknuts.
It may just be a frame defect- my KH20 frame is slightly wider at the bearing holder end, so when I put the wheel on (and bearings into the holders) I have to squeeze the frame together slightly.
Well the chipped bearing is annoying even if it isn’t the source of the problem then, if the frame is just a bit dodgey that would make sense but it’s being couriered away on thursday to the good old people at UDC-UK (nice friendly people may I add).
Didn’t really discuss the source of the problem on the phone but hopefully whatever comes back, whether parts have been replaced or not, will hold up well for the next few years
What a wonderful solution! Send it back.
Most consumers are savvy to that sort of thing.