Old tech, they were a pain on bikes for years, creaking, loosening, splitting cranks etc.
They work ok if torqued carefully with some thread lock on the bolt but as the cost differential between an ISIS set up and cotterless is so small it is not worth even looking at cotterless. There is also less choice since ISIS has taken over (which itself is “old tech” and not really used in the bike world, roll on larger bearing and big x-type hollow axles and pinch bolt cranks :p)
sorry ran away with myself
ISIS strong, cheap, lots of options so a no brainer
I though so too, I just didn’t want to annoy anyone who still uses cotterless. TBH I think I’m just going to save up for a nice 29er as I wouldn’t get much use from a 36er.
Guess I’ll just have to wait 'til next year then.
Often time, getting the wheel trued, both laterally and radially, and centered, requires compromises in tension. As long as the average tensions are within specs, I would rather have a true wheel then to worry if some spokes are higher or lower tension than others.
A block of wood of the right thickness between the rim and the frame… Not exactly ideal. Depending on the wheel you could also use a cable tie on one leg of the frame and then flip the wheel around. That‘s what I would‘ve preferred but since I even had to file down the frame leg on one side to make the hub (Schlumpf) even fit I didn‘t want to file the other leg just to be able to flip the wheel.
