It is an idea but I would prefer not to. I have three shoes to choose from and they look pretty much the same underneath – coarse pattern and most important to me – a thick, hard & stiff sole.
Hazmat: Nimbus
There’s no such thing as too grippy, you’re just pushing down too hard on the pedals to let you move your foot around.
To change your foot position, lift your feet up slightly when you’re doing it, either straight up if you’re confident, or tilt to one side slightly and twist otherwise. It works even with super long pins on super sticky shoes.
It’s much better to have something that feels too sticky than something you can easily slip your feet around on.
If you must buy new pedals, I use vp road pedals with half toeclips, but they’re a bit of a marmite thing, some people hate them.
Joe
Dammit joemarshall, you’re right! I just have to start practicing. 
I use the Sun-Ringle Zu-Zu pedals. They have the classic DX pedal style shape.
There is a technique for changing your foot position with pedals that have the DX style shape. Tilt your foot to the outside so your foot is in contact with just the pointy end of the pedal. You now have one point of contact with the pedal and can easily rotate your foot to a desired position. Now put your foot down flat and you’re good to go.
That’s the advantage to the DX style pedal shape. It makes it easier to adjust foot position without completely lifting your foot from the pedal.
Super Light and Super Grippy are the things I look for in my pedals. I go with Magnesium bodied pinned pedals with rediculously long pins.
I was thinking about upgrading to Azonic platforms or to Slim Jim platforms… but I haven’t got any money so I have some worn down welgo pinned pedals on my 36’er
Thanks for the tip, but altering the angle is not a problem for me. After freemounting my foot lands to close to the crank. Either the shoe will rub against the crank or my thigh/knee chafe the Magura. So in my case I will have to lift the foot and put it down a little further out on the pedal.
I like a lot of grippines on my 36-er. I use the same pinned Snafu pedals that I have on my muni. I like them, I’m used to them, and by having them on both primary rides, that’s one factor I don’t have to adjust for when switching unicycles.
Try these sharp teethed nylons
I bought these a few months ago for 8$, and was so impressed I wrote a review, and bought an extra pair.
The grip is perfect, even in the rain, yet the teeth scrape rather then bite in and cut, like a pin can. Foot repositioning is easier then with pins, though Joe is right, one could just learn to lift the foot more.
I originally got them out of curiosity, as their 330 gram weight for the pair was the lowest of any pedal available at any price, with a full size platform.
Now 4 months, several bashes and 1000+ miles later they are as good as new. The best 36 street pedal at any price IMHO.
Like these?
I am used to spd clipless pedals/shoes on my recumbent bike and on the mtb when riding in the woods but for unicycling … I’m not sure. The benefits are of course the same as in other types of cycling but the risks seem obvious. Did you have to change the way you ride in order to minimize the risks? I guess it takes a while before one feels comfortable freemounting a 36" with clips.
On my snafu pedals I took out the pins and just have the 4 permanent ones on it. I find that very good for traction and foot mobility. I have the pins still because I know I will get comfortable enough to put them back in some day.
Do you know which if any size of pedal protectors will fit those? (I might have missed it in the list even though I checked several times)
Every plastic pedal I have rode are bad in the rain even pc’s. They seemed ok at first, but I learned. I say if you want a little gip get some wellgo mag’s off www.danscomp.com and just take some of the pins out.
I often have the same problem after mounting. In that case you have to lift the foot and reposition. Lifting the foot to reposition on the pedal(s) is not difficult at the slow speed you’re going right after mounting. It does really help though to be able to ride well one footed with either foot. Then lifting the foot becomes trivial.
In some cases you can also walk the foot over to the side of the pedal. Tilt to the outside of the foot and rotate. Then tilt to the inside of the foot and rotate. Repeat until the foot is where you want it.
Plastic pedals on a Coker give you less low speed control. Slow speed control for things like tight turns or U-turns or zig-zaging around pedestrians requires that you be able to apply some body english to the pedals. It really helps to be able to put some twisting force on the pedals to get the Coker to respond more aggressively. You can’t put body english into the pedals when you have plastic pedals.
Metal pedals with healthy grippy metal pins makes the Coker a different beast.
Plastic pedals are also no fun if there is even just a little bit of dampness out.
You should really try them
I am only so insistent because they are the lightest and only 8 $. My radial came with plastics, and they were scary slippery in the rain. I replaced them with snafus. Then when I first switched from snafus to the 8$ nylons, I was amazed how much better they felt. Especially in my knees when braking. But much better all around because of the weight.
Not all plastic is the same. These are a very hard, toothed plastic that bites into my sneakers just fine. I have ridden with them in the rain many times. I feel they are as safe as the snafus, but better because they are less than half as heavy, so the snafus are holding down a shelf now.
I can’t speak for all conditions, it is flat here, no snow. And John and Terry do much trickier stuff then I do. I use metal pinned pedals on the 24 muni. For the street 36, I bet anyone who tried them would agree, they are excellent, even in the rain, at least in a flat town. If you order something from A E B sometime, it is worth it to throw them on the list. That way you can feel what 330 gram pedals feel like, for 8 $ instead of the $150+ of mag ti’s.
Sorry I’ve never checked in to those protectors, but there should be a size that fits those.
I have SNAFU’s on my Muni and Nimbus 36. I really like the traction when I need it and when my legs are shot and I have to recover suddenly. I’ve found it easier to reposition my foot on the upstroke when I’m not putting pressure on it. There’s plenty of choices out there.
Marty
I’ve put about 1k miles in on my SNAFU pedals on my 36"…I like them a bit more over the standard DX pedals or the bulletproof alloys I used a while ago.