36" Nightrider Q factor

Hey, I’m looking at getting the Nimbus Impulse 36er. It has the nightrider frame just with a shadow handle and a disc brake (right?). I would like to get the dual hole KH 110/125 cranks on it, so I can have a commuting setting and a touring setting. I’m worried that a combination of the super wide hub (to accomodate the nightrider frame) and the 10mm Q factor on the KH cranks will make me wobble back and forth too much. The only uni I have with Q factor cranks is my trials uni. My ankles love them, and it doesn’t seem to make me wobble. But everything will be amplified on a 36er. I don’t see the weight difference being a huge difference on an ungeared uni. I can only spin so fast anyway. Would I be better off getting two sets of cranks and a puller? How annoying is it to swap out cranks, and is doing it often bad? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

The Q is measured from crank to crank, and so with a 10mm offset you have an additional 20mm’s of Q. The point is that even cranks with no offset have at least the Q factor of the spindle length.

Some people are really bothered by a lot of Q, but I don’t mind. If you know that offset cranks already bother you then that is going to guide your decision. If you’re o.k. with the offset on your trials uni there is a good chance you will learn to adjust to the super wide Q on the Nightrider in fairly short order.

With the aluminum spindle on the Impulse it’s probably not a great idea to be swapping the cranks as often as you might otherwise. If you really feel like multiple lengths would be a benefit the dual hole moments might be the best solution.

I had 125’s with about the same 10mm offset (Coker cranks) on my Nightrider and didn’t like them, but I think it was more the length than anything. I now have 140’s (also with similar offset, Dotek) with a disc brake and I love the set up. I have enough leverage to get up any hill I need to climb, but at the same time I can cruise comfortably at 12 mph on the flats. If I had shorter cranks I might be able to spin faster, but the 140’s give me plenty of control without spinning like a madman.

I would go for the dual holes. Swapping pedals only is so much easier/faster than swapping the pedals and the cranks! Plus, a 36" will not wobble as much as a smaller wheel. They tend to track straighter.

When you say your 140’s have a similar offset, are you referring to the Q? Does getting used to it mean getting used to wobbling or learning to ride straight despite the extra width?

Ah thanks John. I’ve never ridden anything larger than a 24", but for some reason I had this feeling that a 36" would wobble like crazy.

When you are talking about 10mm’s of Q you are really referring to the offset of the crank arm. The Q factor is the width of the spindle plus the offset of the cranks, and so my Dotek cranks have about the same Q factor as Moments on the same spindle.

I wouldn’t worry about the cranks so much though. The more important thing is getting the right length, and that can be a lot of trial and error before you find something that you really like.

Thanks. For some reason my age isn’t displayed. I’m 18 6’0.75" 170lbs and a pretty strong rider (I road bike as well). I know I will need some utility as I’m heading off to college soon. Where I’m going is moderately hilly, but where I live is FLAT. I don’t think 150’s would be any use to me after I learned, so that pretty much leaves the dual hole 110/125’s or so i figure :slight_smile: Thanks again for your help guys.

I would probably just buy 125 cranks and leave it at that. The 110 cranks are a bit faster but provide less control. I find 125 cranks a nice compromise with the hills we have in the area. I can go just a bit faster with 110 cranks, but they are more for entertainment and less for practicality.

The KH 110/127 cranks do not have steel inserts, so you will be screwing into aluminum. That is not a big deal, but they are less durable than the larger dual-hole cranks.


I love 150s on a 36er, they are not the best for long distance (I preferred 125s), but they are great for climbing, skateparks, cruising, stairs, easy XC, snow, etc etc.

I like the dual holes, nice to be able to switch every once and a while.

Honestly, I can’t say I’ve ever worried or noticed the Q factor. It’s probably less of an issue than you think it is. I would bet that more wobble comes from using a larger crank than having a large Q factor. Still, you have so much momentum on the big wheel that it doesn’t wobble very much to begin with. . . unless you want it to of course : )