36" Cokers- I know nothing about them but I want one

Unicycles and Equipment
1

After hearing speeds of up to 50KPH I could just imagine myself on a Coker riding down the main street because the speed limit is 50KPH. Then I tried a 24" standard unicycle at my circus school in Adelaide, SA… and I felt the speed and it was so much fun! So I thought of a 36" compared to a 24". I love the speed.

I know nothing about the…Hubs, Handles, Gears, and things like that as I am a street rider and own a KH 20".

-What things make the 36" go faster?
-Any advantages in getting a more expensive tyre like a “Night-Rider”?
-What crank length is standard? Which goes fastest? When do I know what size cranks to use?
-Can you get gears on a Coker? Does a 29" GUni go faster?
-Will my legs even reach the pedals on the Coker? I’m 13 years old…
-Why get a Schlumph hub?
-Why get a Double-Crown? Why get strong cranks if your just cruising on the road? Why have brakes (Cant you just slow down but not pushing on the pedals?) Why get handle bars?
-Do you think it’s silly for me to get a Coker?

*The Nimbus 36" with Nightrider tyre COMPARED to the UDC 36" Unicycle

Provide any information on the comparisson btwn the “36” UDC unicycle"
Compared 2
-KH 08 Distance 36’
-Nimbus 36
-Coker V2

2

50 kph? Wow, never heard of anyone riding that fast. UPD at that speed - scary!

When pedaling one revolution, you go approximately the perimeter of the wheel. Think about it and it might make sense. Now, the bigger wheel, the larger perimeter, thus taking you longer each rev.

Generally, shorter cranks = more speed but less control. I don’t know what’s standard but you should use what you think is comfortable.

Cokers I don’t know, but people use the Schlumpf and/or (I don’t know which) KH/Schlumpf hub on their 36er.
A geared Coker and 29" GUni are equal fast, without a rider. In other words, it depends on who rides it. However, with a geared 36" you have two useful gears; for road, a 29" in first gear isn’t very useful.

What is your inseam length?

Because it has gears.

Double-Crown on a 36"? Don’t know. Can you even get that?
I don’t think you need very strong cranks for road, but if you enjoy Coker Muni…
Brakes are useful in descents. To slow down, you have to apply force in the opposite direction. In an area with lots of hills, a brake can save you lots of energy.
Benifits of handlebars?

As silly as riding something with one wheel.

Conclusion: If you don’t know anything about 36er and have basic questions like these, a simple search would give you all the answers and still more. The old posts are still there for a reason. :wink:

Good luck with your speed monster! I say just don’t expect 50 kph and you will surly be satisfied.

/Someone who has only tried a 36" once

3
  • Larger radius makes the wheel go further each revolution. With constant rev/min that turns into higher speed.
  • Nightrider is the lightest 36" tyre. When the tyre is further from the hub the weight becomes even more noticeable. The Nightrider also makes good contact to different surfaces.
  • Cokers come with either 125mm or 150 cranks. The shorter the cranks the less you need to move your legs. That way you can spin faster. 89mm is the fastest. I bought my Coker with 125mm cranks and had to spend some time getting used to them. Steep hills and rough terrain are more difficult with short cranks since you have less torque.
  • You can put a geared hub on a 36" uni. With 1:1,5 you get 54" effective wheel size. With 29" you’d get 43", which is larger than an ungeared 36".
  • Depends on your size, not age only. Check the specs and measure your inside seam. You can save an inch or two by shortening the frame, but you’ll grow soon enough.
  • You can buy a Schlumpf hub to either break your neck or empty your bank account, or both. Ungeared 36" unis are inexpensive, you should start with one first. You can always change the hub when you feel like spending some.
  • You don’t need a double crown or strong cranks for road cruising. Breaks make long/steep descents easier especially with short cranks. Handlebars stabilize your ride and help to get the weight off your butt on long cruises.
  • 36"s are not silly, they are great fun. Of course you should get one!

Sorry, I only have a Coker Big One. I’ve never tried any other 36" uni, so I can’t help with the comparison. If you only want to cruise around on pavement you can’t go wrong with any of them. The more you pay the longer it will last and the lighter it will be (V2 being an exception). A geared hub will triple the price, so you might just as well buy the best platform for it anyway.

Edit: Oh, hansc got his reply out before mine. I’m glad to see we agree on almost every point.

4

Don’t expect to hit 50 kph, 30 kph is probably within your grasp though.

-What things make the 36" go faster?

Gears! (I’m assuming you mean, what will make a 36" go faster than a standard 36"). A Schlumpf hub allows you to gear the wheel size up to 1.5 times normal, giving you an effective wheel diameter of 54". Larger diameter wheels go faster as each turn of the pedal takes you further. Crank length is a factor too. In general the shorter the cranks, the faster you can spin the wheel but the harder it is to climb hills and control yourself.

-Any advantages in getting a more expensive tyre like a “Night-Rider”?

It is slightly lighter, which means less rotating weight, which means it is easier to go faster. The tread pattern is also better suited to offroad riding if you want to have a go at that as well as road riding.

-What crank length is standard? Which goes fastest? When do I know what size cranks to use?

Crank length is a personal preference thing. Riders just getting the hang of 36" wheels usually start out with 150mm cranks and then use shorter cranks once they get used to the wheel size. I use 125mm cranks and some of my faster friends use 114s.

-Can you get gears on a Coker? Does a 29" GUni go faster?

Yes, you can build up a KH/Schlumpf 36" wheelset and pop it into a KH 36" frame. You’ll need money to burn though. Those things don’t come cheap. (eg probably around the $3000 AU mark)

-Will my legs even reach the pedals on the Coker? I’m 13 years old…

Depends on your leg length. You’ll need a minimum leg length of 75cm to ride a standard 36" uni without modifying it. Leg length is measured from crotch to the floor with shoes on, not your trouser length. Some shorter riders cut down the frame so they can fit it.

-Why get a Schlumph hub?

To go faster. They are also uber cool.

-Why get a Double-Crown?

If you mean a Nimbus 36 frame, they are less likely to bash your legs on. (Not everyone has problems with a standard frame but I certainly prefer the Nimbus). I like the look of them too.

-Why get strong cranks if your just cruising on the road?

In case you want to go offroad :slight_smile:

-Why have brakes (Cant you just slow down but not pushing on the pedals?)

Certainly you can, but slowing a big wheel down takes a lot of muscle power and energy as well. For long distance touring you may want to avoid working your legs too much on the downhills. Try riding 100km over a hilly course and you’ll discover why it would be nice to have a brake. They are handy for allowing you to quickly descend steep hills without losing control too.

-Why get handle bars?

Some people find them more comfortable for distance riding.

-Do you think it’s silly for me to get a Coker?

Not if you want one :slight_smile:

5

1) It is the wheel diameter that makes it easier for people to ride the mighty 36" or Coker at great speeds.
2) The Knightrider is a lighter, if not a better version to the original coker tyre. It has been improved to match those of an everyday surroundings pretty much.
3) It starts off with 150mm, but i have tried lower cranks like 110s. I have even tried 102s on a coker.
4) Yep, but like what peter.bier said. They don’t come cheap.
5) Yep, given how longs your legs are. If it turns out that you’re too short for it. Cut it, but DON"T cut too much.
6) If you want a geared 36". Then getting a Schlumph hub would make your machine, the ultimate of ultimates when it comes to cokers.
7) The nimbus version is far better and more ergonomic in my opinion. But if you love the classics, then the UDC version. would be a choice to have. Considering there is no T7 handlebar. It’s just 1 pure coker. But whatever makes you happy i guess. Also handlebars, (same thing for brakes as well) would make you have better control (like a bike) when you’re reaching higher speeds.
8) Umm…i don’t see why not. I had one and loved riding it whenever i had the chance. So much so, that i want to get another one and mod it. They are most definitely not a waste of $$$ if you don’t consider getting one.

6

I love how everyone is saying the same thing, even though the posts arent even close together.

“Hmm, now that I read his post, and everyone else’s answers, I think ill re-answer his questions with the same answers as the others, because thats going to provide so much more insight…” :stuck_out_tongue:

7

I know you’ll do a much better job then what i just posted Jerrick. :smiley:

Seriously, i mean that.

8

Coker riding simulator

Coker simulation.

Just keep the sock over their head, and you have a Coker.

9

150 cranks are a good size to start with. If you are very short, it will be easier to reach 125’s. But start with 150’s if you are taller.

Anyone of normal build and 5 feet tall or taller can ride a 36 by cutting the post down. Even shorter folks can gain a few inches by trimming the frame.

You don’t need brakes unless you live in a hilly place.

I really like the TA tire, because it is smooth, silent, and lasts forever. It is OK in the off road, the only real advantage of tread is a bit better traction in some cases, but this increases vibration and wear.

It is better to buy the cheaper cotterless hub if you only ride in the street and want to save some money. Although the splined hubs aren’t that expensive, 36 riders like to try different crank lengths, and those shiny ISIS cranks are about 75 $/ pr compared to 10 to 25 $/pr for cotterless. Look at some of the riding Muniaddict ( you tube uni geezer) does with his cotterless radial 36, a smaller rider won’t break anything unless they are doing really, really hard riding.

Choice really comes down to $. Low buck, a Coker big one without brakes looks pretty good.

You might have to wait a few months to find one, I read they are sold out for now, but the KH 36 is worth the extra $ if you have them.

I am hoping the KH 36 might be available through QBP channels at a discount, in the next year, so I am sitting on my nickle jar.:slight_smile:

Of course, you will look silly riding a 36, and everyone will stare at you.:wink: I just smile down at them as I glide by.

If you can ride a smaller wheel a mile or so, you can get used to a 36 in an afternoon.:slight_smile:

10

I would just get a KH36 stock, they are amazing.

You won’t want anything longer than 125 mm (stock) unless you are riding REALLY hilly stuff, 125 is plenty long.

Have fun 36ering!
Miles

11

As a future 36er myself, I’m confused by what everyone says about crank length. Obviously I’m missing something, but wouldn’t shorter cranks be BETTER on hills (similar to a lower gear on a bike) while longer ones would give you more speed on the flats? Why does everyone here say they moved to shorter crank sizes as they got better? I just seems logical that the opposite would be the case.

And to add to the OP’s questions, which 36er(s) is considered best for road racing, preferred by riders like the ones I see banking around corners in the RTL? Thanks.

12

Thanks, loads if information, sorry just got my first girlfriend hour ago i will read later sorry bye =]

13

With short cranks your feet travel less distance to do a full rotation but you also don’t have as much leverage.

14

To bo clear:

Short cranks = high gear on-road/no hills

Long cranks = low gear, offroad/hills

Long cranks offer more leverage, but it take more time and effort to spin them a full rotation than shorter cranks, which offer more speed at the cost of control. Get two sets of cranks and try it yourself.

15

Also, to be clear, I don’t think anyone has ever hit 50km/h before. The fastest speed I know of was Arne’s speed of 45.2 km/h on a downhill on the second day of RTL. Although that is not official in any manner, I believe that he reached that speed, and I believe that he has the fastest unofficial speed on a unicycle.

16

The highest I’ve heard is Christian Hoveraths 48km/hr on a downhill riding a Coker/125mm cranks during the EUT. Probably not the most accurate measurement, but neither is a cycle computer. Although I think Arne’s speed is a touch more accurate.

I don’t think it will be long before people hit 50km/hr.

17

Thanks. Wouldn’t it be cool if someone made quick-adjust cranks that allow you to slide the pedals to different positions and lock them down quickly? Closest thing to a guni without the high cost.

18

Well, there are the double-hole Moment cranks. Excellent if you want to switch between on- and offroad riding.

A geared hub is quite different. Riding a geared 36" in 1:1.5 is approximately equivalent to riding a 54" wheel, which means you have to spin less to go fast.

19

Yup, I have those. I meant something that uses the same concept, but instead of two holes, it’s a slot with two or more places where you can slide the pedals to and lock them down. Then you could quickly change your crank length during a ride. Or I could just get real fast with a pedal wrench…:smiley:

20

I think I will take the suggestion I heard from…someone about getting a the cheapest one and then upgrading as I go along. (But I could change possibly and just get the Nimbus 36" but I’m not sure yet). Seems like It could chew up money, I guess this means investing in my money in the bank and increasing my busking skills!

I heard about the 50KPH in Uni Mag Issue 5, Chuck reaching ALMOST speeds of 50KPH so yea around 48KPH I guess.

Thanks for all the info :wink: