Re: 3 Foot Tacos
Rough treatment on the Coker should not be advised. It is not designed to
handle it. You can get a little rough with it occasionally, but if you abuse it
it will fail.
I have done some light muni riding on my Coker with no problems. Light muni
means a tame trail with no big rocks, no big roots, no drops. I’ve taken the
Coker on gravel roads, rails to trails trails (old railroad right of way turned
into a trail), wide walking/biking dirt trails, and tame smoothish single track.
On the right trail the Coker is a blast.
The rim on the Coker is barely adequate. It’s a hefty steel rim but there is no
box section to add additional strength to the rim. It’s just a flat slab of
steel formed into the shape of a rim. The only thing giving it any strength is
its heft. I’ve seen better rims on an old Schwinn unicycle.
The Coker also uses a standard sized hub. For a wheel that large the hub should
be wider than it is. Combine the narrow hub with the wimpy rim along with
spokes that don’t like to stay taught and you’ve got a wheel that won’t take
much abuse. Lateral forces should be avoided as much as possible which means no
I ride mine off curbs without much worry about the wheel collapsing. But I avoid
riding it up curbs. Yes that big wheel and fat tire makes it fairly easy to go
up a curb but that weak wheel won’t like it. If you hit the curb too hard or if
you hit the curb at an angle (which will cause lateral forces on the wheel) you
will taco the wheel or put a ding in it. My regular Coker ride includes a 2"
curb to get on a footbridge and I ride up that with no problem but even then I’m
careful to make sure I hit it square on and not an any angle. If that little
curb was any bigger I’d dismount and walk it up.
The frame on the Coker is also wimpy. It has a lot of side to side flex. When
I’m holding on to the front of the seat and cranking hard up some short steep
hills I can feel the tire rubbing on the frame. The button tread design on the
tire actually makes a buzz and rumble that you can hear and feel when it rubs.
The Coker frame does not have a lot of clearance on either side of the tire so
it doesn’t take a lot of flex to make it rub.
I wouldn’t worry about the strength of the hub because you shouldn’t be jumping
on it enough to break a hub.
Upgrades that I’ve made to my Coker are: Miyata air seat, BMX double bolt
seatpost clamp, grippy metal platform pedals, and a cycle computer.
The stock crank length is actually just right for me. I ride on too many hills
to consider going to shorter cranks. In fact, for the Chilly Hilly I’m thinking
about putting on some 160’s or 170’s.
The improved frame that Andy Cotter is working on will be nice improvement. Now
we just need to find a source for stronger rims. A stronger rim on a better
frame and you’ve got something that can take more abuse. The only improvement
after that would be a wider hub but then the frame would have to be redesigned.
I don’t want this to sound like I’m ragging on the Coker. The Coker is fine for
regular road use. It’s only when you start riding it hard and start abusing it
that you have to worry about its weaknesses.
>From: Chris Reeder <firstname.lastname@example.org> Reply-To: Chris Reeder
><email@example.com> To: “firstname.lastname@example.org” <email@example.com>
>Subject: 3 Foot Tacos Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 21:47:10 -0800
>All you Coker owners out there: How’s the Durability on the Coker wheel? Can
>you at least hop on them without creating Mexican food? What upgrades do you
>recommend for improving their longevity?
>Assuming I want a Coker that I can ride up curbs with and do a little hopping
>on, should I… Have the wheel tensioned? Replace the axle? Replace the cranks?
>Somehow beef up the rim? Wait for the Diet Coker to come out? Wait till it
>breaks, then fix it? “Take it easy?”
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