29er century ride

ok so i’ new to distance riding, but after unicycling for about 7 years i think it looks like a great riding style that offers a safer break from my street and muni riding. i haven’t bought a distance uni yet because i want to make sure i make a good choice. while i would love to have a 36" uni, but i don’t think i can afford one at the current moment as money is tight. i was considering the nimbus 29er on UDC as they have isis hubs and nimbus uni’s are great products. i want to make at least one century ride but how much more difficult is a century going to be on a 29er as a apposed to a 36? should i spring for the 29er now or start saving and get a good 36" when i have the cash?

If you want to do distance riding you should get a 36er or guni of some sort. A 29er is fine for zipping around town or trails, but would not be very satisfying for distance (unless you can spin like Ken Looi).
-Ro

I agree with that a 29er for long road rides is inferior to a 36er. There is a Coker for sale on Denver’s craigslist for $200. Good luck.

ok that’s what i figured. now on a related note; how crucial is a splined hub on a coker?

It’s not crucial at all. 36ers generally don’t take abuse that requires more than a square tapered hub and cotterless cranks. Even Muniaddict does Coker trials with a square tapered hub and claims to have had no problems.

that’s very reassuring thank you all.

100 miles at 10 miles an hour = 10 hours actual riding, plus stops. A long day.

I have often thought of doing the century (furthest so far has been about 55 miles on the 28") but I would need to find a 100 mile route of safe, interesting, fairly level route (not easy in this crowded island) and I would use the 36.

A square tapered hub set up properly will take a lot of stress. I’m out of touch with road bikes now, but time was when square tapered cotterless was “the bee’s knees” and they were good enough for Tour de France riders to stomp flat out up mountains putting more torque through all day than I could manage for 5 minutes.

My Pashley MUni (The Holy Roller) has square tapered hubs and has survived a lot of abuse.

Not saying that splined isn’t better, but square taper is fine for most things except extremely heavy landings.

29er O.K.

I rode with a group of 36ers and was able to keep up and pass some on a 17 mile ride. If u r in shape it will not make a difference.

Unless of course they r in shape 2.

17 miles isn’t really that far. As the distance increases, the difference in wheel size will become very apparent.

and another question, when i do finally buy a 36" should i go straight to short cranks, say 125 and just learn to ride well with them? or should i get it with say 137’s or bigger and the upgrade to shorter cranks later?

What do you currently ride?

I would say you should start with 150mm cranks on the 36er and then after riding with them for a while, put on the 125s.

The 36er is a LOT more fun than the 29er, there really is no comparison, get the 36er if you want to do a century or if you want to have a blast while distance riding.

As stated above, if your goal is to do long distances, a splined crankset will mostly just weigh you down. If you want to bomb around on it also, then it makes sense. My 29" has a square taper hub (the only choice at the time), and has been abused plenty, but it’s not my main MUni so will usually not be taken on the really punishing trails. I’d say you don’t need splined on a 29" or larger wheel unless you plan on doing lots of hops and drops.

Beyond that, I’m sure someone here would be happy to do the math and tell you the extra number of pedal revolutions you’d have to do on a 29" wheel. I’m sure that would be a scary number!

Though you can run shorter cranks on a 29", no matter what you’re still going to have to pedal more. And there’s a limit to where short cranks are helpful. In the past I’ve done races on my 29" using 102mm cranks. Pretty fast. But last summer I ended up racing the Unicon marathon on a 36" with 102s. Worked great because the course was pretty flat. 89mm cranks on a 29" would have been way slower.

As for what size cranks to start with, if you’re an experienced rider who’s not fearful, I’d just start with the 125s. That’s probably the longest size I’d use for road riding, unless the hills were pretty brutal. Currently I run 114s, though a lot of riders I know use 110s. If the 125s are too scary, then you can order a pair of 150s (or 140s) until you feel more confident. Also, if you plan to do some dirt Cokering, 150 is the size I use for that.

i’ve been riding nearly 8 years and have ridden everything from 12 inch unis all the way up to cokers with 150s down to 110s. while the 110s were a lot scarier at first once i started pedaling it wasn’t too bad. so on that note i think that i’m going to begin saving up for the numbus nightrider (complete with t7) and get it with 125 cranks. there are a few hills on the roads that i would be riding most often, but i’ve taken them on my 20" before with not much issue so i’d like to think i’d be ok.

Yeah, 125s can climb up almost everything. It sounds like you have the right idea on the nimbus w/ 125s.

Did you ever try the 12" with 170mm cranks?

no, but i’d bet the hard part would be jumping a little as the pedal came around on each side. lol