Just to clarify I have the KH Street saddle, the KH Slim has a bit less padding. I also don’t often ride further than 5 miles without getting off. That said, I’ve found the KH street to work pretty well for me. I have a Freeride saddle on my muni and the extra padding in the Freeride can cause more chaffing over a distance. Though in general this isn’t as much of an issue for muni as you get more frequent breaks due to UPDs.
I’m considering an attempt to flatten the base of the street saddle on my KH36 but will attempt it with an older Velo based Coker saddle first.
The Oracle uses an aluminum hub; the Oregon has a steel hub, which is stronger and heavier. If you’re thinking of riding off-road and already having a custom wheel built for the black rim, I’d ask for an Oregon hub too.
The Spooner is picky about brake levers, the Starfighter isn’t. You can make a Spooner fit if you are willing to trim your lever, otherwise get the Starfighter (or go extension-less; I’ve never used either but maybe I don’t know what I’m missing).
With the custom wheel build and the other add-ons to the Oracle, like KH seat etc. it looks like the KH36 and Oracle 36 are going to come out equal in price. The difference being that if I got the KH I’d go for the rim brakes since I don’t want an outboard disc. I only have one uni with brakes and it’s the Oracle disc brake, so nothing to compare against.
Would you all go with the Oracle, if price were the same?
Kahunacohen, I too am weighing the pros and cons of the Nimbus 36 (currently on sale) and a KH36. Yes, that neon green rim would have to go and if it was swapped out for the black stealth2 rim I’d go with the Oregon steel axle for strength since I would want my 36 to be muni strong. The wheel build would wipe out the sale price savings.
Comparing value for money the KH has the advantage of overall better quality components that I’d use and not be looking to upgrade immediately. The Nimbus pedals (IMHO) would have to go and I’d pay to upgrade the seat. The KH seat post is a piece of art. The included spirit cranks make the KH disc ready as well as having rim brake braze ons. The Nimbus’ component savings get you a disc brake installed. I have a Brycer rim Magura I could use until I decide if I need/want to go disc.
However, the Nimbus parts are all well above average and more than adequate to make the Oracle a very worthy choice.
I tried just putting together individual components but like you found quickly spent the same as a packaged complete uni.
The spec component on the Nimbus that I think is superior is the Foss inner tube. Add $38 to the price of the KH. Use the original tube as a spare. I like to save rotating weight.
The problem is the two 36’s are very close in value when you make the adjustments which makes the decision so hard.
Although I haven’t made my final choice I did buy a “The Todd” tire this week so I’ll need to get a 36 soon. My choice of tire suggests I’m in the off road group for the majority of my uni riding.
I really do like the idea of the hub-based disk on the Oracle though. I like the idea of being able to use whatever cranks I want, instead of Spirits if I go disc. If I go rim it doesn’t matter.
Does anybody run discs and rim brakes? If so, do you really prefer the discs that much over rims?
Isn’t the Oracle dished? How much does that really affect the strength of the wheel in real life? I plan to use this almost exclusively for commuting on roads and fire trails. I don’t plan to do real muni with it, although I have found that my ideas of what I will use a uni for change quickly once I get it.
I currently run V-brakes on two unis (26 and 36) and a disc brake on one (29). I’m working on moving the others over to disc brakes (external, crank mounted). The V-brakes are cheap and work well enough but the smoothness of the disc makes it more enjoyable to use and worth the expense (which is coming down).
People use hydraulic rim brakes on unicycles because V-brakes are hard to fit over 3" tires. Rim brakes on a 36" can rub due to frame and (more so) wheel flex when climbing. V-brakes allow you to adjust the pads further away than Maguras but a disc eliminates that concern completely and give better modulation due to the smaller rotor (rim brakes use the rim as a giant brake rotor - more power but less modulation).
Remember that it’s your decision- there’s no ‘right’ length of crank for a 29-er. As you’ve got the dual hole cranks you’re in a very good position to keep switching lengths and seeing the pros and cons of each, before deciding which you prefer.
(and some riders don’t settle on just one length, but switch during the ride according to the terrain)
I only use the 150 hole for muni with hills, otherwise I’m sure the 125 will be fine for you. Just use the 150 until it annoys you then try the 125s. I wouldn’t want to be on 150s on the road even with hills for any amount of time.