It’s 2 inches like the Big Apple I was riding previously. Tread is nearly the same. It’s lighter because it doesn’t have a wire bead like the BA.
The rim is a bit narrow for that tire.
I keep it at 45 - 50 psi. Could go higher but then it will bounce off bumps. Hubby and I have been discussing tire pressure and rolling resistance. He came across an article by a locale b-rider, Jan Heine of Bicycle Quarterly, who has done some interesting research on the topic. Here’s a video by GCN about the topic. Starts at 1:34. I’m not sure I get the correct profile with this tire and rim.
I’ve had two difficult UPDs in the past six months. One time I was rolling at 10mph and hit an unexpected bump. Couldn’t run it out and ended up on my face. Huge bruise on my face, wrist jammed, knee scraped and ribs very tender. After that, I started riding with less pressure. A month ago I had another crash but wasn’t going so fast. Landed squarely on my knee and got another huge bruise. It still hurts after 1.5 months. After janvanhulzen post, I’m wonder if I should go back to 125mm cranks. I’ve also been more diligent about wearing pads.
Well for reference i commute daily on 100mm on a 26" and have tried 85mm. Which is fine but there always is a part in the stroke without sufficient torque. On my 36" i also ride with 100mm cranks and do about 21km/hr average and 27 km/hr max speed. I have a smooth road track nearby where i can ride at high speeds. I have had a situation that i was on my 36" and an unexpected car appeared that had right of way. I tried to stop pressing on the pedals while leaning backward a little. The pedal just lifted me from the saddle and i was ejected off the back. I have full gear with leg armor and elbow pads.
I can mount a brake but i guess it would be hard to learn how to use it effectively at speed. I have seen a video of a person doing this but have no idea how to train for it without taking a dive.
For me on my 36er there wasn’t really any training involved when I started using a brake. As long as you start pulling it very gently, your unicycle mind should react to the difference in balance naturally. It’s releasing the brake that’s the scary part, especially after a steep hill… I tend to forget how much resistance the brake is really giving and, when I release it, the uni nearly flies out in front of me (rear upd)
I guess what I’m saying is just go for it with the brake, you won’t regret it!
If you really must train with it, start on the flat and learn to ride against soft resistance, and remember to anticipate the release!
yeah i saw that post, there is another movie in there showing a level run in combination with pulling the break.
Using a break going downhill is relatively easy since in most cases i can ease into the break. I did use a rim break which was set up to not block at full pull since it is hard to control the break force.
in the case of a level run emergency stop situation leaning and brake-force need to be managed so i guess setting up the longest cranks i have on a 36" and just trying may be the way to go since overpowering the break and staying in control may be the way to go.
On my 29 uni I recently switched from 125’s to 114mm cranks. Road crown had never been an issue for me previously on this uni. Now since the change, it’s become a real problem… What gives?
I’ve got about 20 miles into the new length, so am still adjusting for sure. Anyone else experience this?