24" vs. 26" Muni

I’m thinking of getting a Muni sometime and I would like to know which wheel size is better for me. I like to go fast but I still want to be able to hop high. I’ve been looking at the Koxx Track Monsters. Also it would be cool to get a Road Monster instead of a Muni and just put a knobby tire on when i take it offroad. Does anyone know of a place in the USA that sells them??

EDIT: How much is the Orange Bud from Renegade?


faster, rolls over stuff better, a bit heavier.

Kris did everything on a 26" muni for a while…


comes with a brake too. i have the 26" and it’s awesome.

I would reccommend bedford.

Do the XC Munis have splined cranks? The bedfords don’t have a brake like the Koxx does unless you spend tons of money.
That brings me to my next question, how crucial is it to have a brake. I suppose I could upgrade later but do the Bedford frames have brake mounts. (I know that’s probably a dumb question so no one yell at me plz.)

I used to ride a 24" untill I tried a 26". Now I ride a 26". It’s faster, rolls over most surfaces better. Sand riding is more stable and not as “stoppy” and swirvy as the 24". There is more clearance on my 26" with 175mm cranks than my 24" with 140mm. And with my 175’s It’s faster, and like a tractor.

I think a 26" beats a 24" for muni. Most people have 24" because that’s whats avaliable(more variety), and the “Pro’s” ride them. Im better on my 26" though. So 26" owns!

i think so, you should really email darren, that price list is a little out of date. he can build a custom for you probally, but in my oppinion the koxx from trialsin is the best deal.

edit:the koxx comes with 165mm cranks. they might seem too short at first, but they are awesome once you do get used to it.

Most of Michigan doesn’t have very steep terrain. Not sure exactly what you have in the GR area but I’ve never seen any really steep trails in Michgan, though steep spots surely exist somewhere. You only really need a brake when the trail is too steep to ride down, or the hill is so long you’ll be sore from riding down it without a brake. Most people don’t need one.

My 24" MUni has a 26" tire on it. In other words, the rim is 24" and the tire is about 26" diameter. That makes it about the same size as my other two 26" MUnis, only with a fatter (Gazz) tire. So you may want to ask yourself instead how wide a tire you want, and let the rim size follow that.

Sooooo… If I got a 24 inch wheel with a big tire it would be the same as a 26 with a normal tire? Would This stuff PDC is selling essentaly be as big as a 26 incher?

Nope. A 26" with a 3" tire is about 28". With simililar tires, a 26 is always gonna be 2" taller than a 24.

No splines on an XC Muni. They’re heavy!

I’m a great fan of the 26" muni. With a 3" tyre it’s very nearly the diameter of a 29er, but is much more forgiving on the rockier end of cross-country. On smoother trails a 29er is probably a tad faster but is more skittish and takes more concentration due to the lighter weight and skinnier tyre. The only bad thing I can see about a 26x3 is the extra weight on a climb, but it’s not a big problem.

If you’re thinking of riding the more extreme stuff you’d be better off with a (probably splined) 24" with long cranks, but for general cross-country including a bit of the gnarlier stuff the 26x3 (with 150s in my case) is a superb machine. I’d say a brake is necessary unless you’re riding very steep technical stuff all the time (in which case you probably should go for a 24" anyway) - build up your legs instead.


But 24" make good universal unis :wink:

Cool, thanks guys! I think I’m gonna get a 24 when i get one. the offroad stuff i would ride will be pretty technical like Fort Custer and Yankee Springs. How fast can you go on, say, a Koxx track monster with the 140s and a 3 inch tire (approximately).

with 140’s you really don’t get that much torque. if you want to ride technical stuff, get the 160’s. but you can go 13+ mph on that set up

I disagree.

you will be on pedal strike island with cranks any longer than 155.


ps. torque sucks. You don’t even really need torque unless your doing alot of steep uphill, which most people hike up anyway.

From what I here a good XC setup is 26"X2.6" wheel/tire w/ like 150 cranks. Faster, and rolls over bumps easier than a 24. If you did want to put long cranks on like 175 mm pedal strikes won’t be much of a problem. The 2.6" tire can handle narly terrain, just not big drops well. You could put on a 3" tire but I hear that stears like a tank on a 26.

For me I think the way to go is quiver: 19" trials, 24" Muni, and 29" Muni (not a good tire selection on the 29 but that’s changing pretty quickly.)

You mean, “most people in Southern California” hike up anyway. Most people I’ve ridden with elsewhere ride up what they can ride up.

Torque is also important on steep downhill. I go up to 165mm cranks for Moab, which is all steep up and down (and yes, where I ride a whole bunch of the uphill) then back to 150mm for most of my riding. I think 150mm is overall preferable, but it depends on the terrain you’re riding.

You will get pedal strikes more often on longer cranks, but pedal strikes are also easier to recover from with longer cranks.

Most of the places I would ride have uphils sooo steep some people (except me) have to hike their bikes up. There is one hill at Fort Custer on the Red trail that is extremely steep and near the top, it is mostly loose gravel. It gets verry easy to break a tire free there. there are also some long down downhills as well.
I dont want to spend more than neccesary but would renegade or trialsin trade cranks for me or would I just have to buy an extra set (which probably wouldn’t be all that bad)?

I ride fort custer on my 24" with 165mm cranks, its a great set up for cardiac hill there on the red loop, also good for Granny’s garden, a 26" with 170mm cranks would be better for most everything else.