This may seem like a strange question - or very obvious to those that know, but is there a correct/incorrect direction to run a new wheel build. I mean should I follow the twist/flow of one set of spokes over the other.
If you look at the above photo the white spokes which have been inserted from outside the hub flow one way, and the others - the black ones flow naturally the other way but are (of course) coming through the hub holes from inside.
Does this make any different if I run the wheel one way or the other? Or am I just crazy to think this - a true and well built wheel is strong both ways?
I did compare how this wheel was built compared to my KH36, and both correct, but there is a difference in the way the spoke direction are for the - how can I call them… The outside-in spokes. On the 36 they pull in opposite direction, whereas on the Surly - the white spokes (also outside-in) pull in the same direct on both sides. It doesn’t look odd as it still holds the same pattern and I can see how each wheel is following the same structure, however I was curious what this slight difference might have.
The wheel can go any way. On bikes there are some situations that dictate spoke lacing, but even on bikes it isn’t common for it to matter.
Tires can be mounted any direction as well. It may make a bigger difference on unicycles, but on bikes the research points to it being fairly irrelevant. The number, depth, and spacing of the knobs seems to be much more important.
Don’t know anything about wheel building, as I have my lbs build all of my wheels. Generally I install the wheel onto the frame so that the label of the hub isn’t backward. But regarding the Duro Leopard, it has a small arrow on one side that tells you which direction it is supposed to roll. That arrow will end up being on the right side. Or if you’re good at reading a tire’s profile, which on the duro I am definitely not, you can just forget finding the arrow and install it the way it’s supposed to roll.
One thing I’ve learned is to always leave it so that the last group of spokes I put in (eg, the last 9 on a 36-spoke wheel) have their heads inside the hub flange. Otherwise the free end of the spoke runs into the fully laced other side of the wheel and it’s a serious pain to get it out to where it needs to be along the rim.
Too lazy to go find a reference right now, but I remember something about same-direction/opposite-direction having to do with machine-built vs hand-laced wheels. IIRC machines lace the same way on both sides, so when the wheel is flipped over to do the second side it ends being up opposite to the first. A human is more likely to lace the sides in mirror image. But no one has produced proof that any one way is better than the others.
Thanks for the responses @LargeEddie - what you suggest makes sense. The other wheels I compared my hand built one were off the peg unis so machine built.
Nice to think a human’s mind processes things differently - and with the white spokes having both sides going the same direction it is great visually as the colour stands out and isn’t a crisscross blur.
Arriving tomorrow are two packages: triton frame and a duro 24x3 and tube… Can’t wait to get this rolling. I’ll nab some bits of another uni just so I can test ride it…
Hello all again,
Just wondering if it is normal that Nimbus hubs have a hollow axle? I have the 32h ISIS and just now I took the bolts out and I see the axle is hollow. I don’t remember seeing this on my Oregon - could be wrong.
Also discovered that on this hub I’ll need to use 6mm or maybe 4mm spacers with Moments - the mounting ends look a little short when putting on the recommend 8mm spacer (have this on my Oregon with Moments). Well I now know it doesn’t really matter and it’s a case of using spacers that look right / work.
I just bought 3 hubs for my project. Two of them I had to adapt…
They are hollow. I think this is normal and it makes sense.
Machining a hole through is much easier than doing a stud hole. And rigidity is almost the same with less weight.
It isn’t yet the final version as I have borrowed the 137 cranks and saddle from my KH20 - but I am so happy to have given this uni a test ride… (I thought the cranks would feel a tad short, but actually they’re great - I will switch to dual 150/125s though)
Well, I am a Large Marge rim convert for life. Now there’s a statement!
I really don’t mind the fact that it is a heavy beast… The feeling you get from riding this stable 24" rolling machine is beyond any weight trade off - it is more than a compensation. It is sublime to ride such a clean and well balanced set up.
Mental backflips of joy!
It feels as cushy as my Oregon Larry, but yet more nimble and lively like a stock KH would - add to this a grounded feeling, and you have a Large Marge proponent grinning from ear to ear
Thanks to everyone who answered all my little questions along the way… I’ll post back again when the next phase of changes are made to Monsieur TriSurly