Hi,
Any bad experiences with cotterless hubs for Muni?
Thanks
Yes. They break.
My first uni was a Torker Lx 20 that I used for occasional Muni and some trials. After a couple months (3?) the hub became REALLY messed up. The cranks are always loose, the crank fittings (or whatever you call it) is bent out and down due to the drops and hops (They would have looked something like this: /\ 
) Sometimes I wonder how I was able to ride that thing. So if you are looking to do more than XC Muni, I suggest investing in a ISIS or splined hub.
I have a Nimbus 26 ISIS and it is serving me well. I have put it through drops, UPDs, more drops, and more UPDs and it is still very rigid and unbreakable. 
Hope I helped 
My first uni was a Torker Lx 20 that I used for occasional Muni and some trials. After a couple months (3?) the hub became REALLY messed up. The cranks are always loose, the crank fittings (or whatever you call it) is bent out and down due to the drops and hops (They would have looked something like this: /\ ) Sometimes I wonder how I was able to ride that thing. So if you are looking to do more than XC Muni, I suggest investing in a ISIS or splined hub.
I have a Nimbus 26 ISIS and it is serving me well. I have put it through drops, UPDs, more drops, and more UPDs and it is still very rigid and unbreakable.
Hope I helped
+1
Depends what sort of muni riding you’re doing. If you’re like me and don’t do big drops then they’re strong enough. My first muni was a Nimbus 26, with a UDC cotterless hub. I used ProWheel cranks on it, and cracked one once, but that was nothing to do with the hub type (cracked in the middle of the crank). It lasted me four years (lots of miles) of mostly very rocky xc riding, but with pretty much no drops of much more than a foot, and nothing over 18" (I’m too much of a wuss). The hub eventually failed where the flanges are welded onto the axle (just started freewheeling), which could have happened exactly the same way on an ISIS hub.
My new muni has an ISIS hub, just because they’re easy to get now, but unless you’re doing pretty extreme stuff there’s no real need for it IMO. On the other hand, Moment cranks do look nice even if they’re overkill!
I’ve never had a cotterless crank come loose, BTW, on bikes or unicycles.
Rob
cotterless hub
Thanks for the feedback
Point well taken. Until 1999, all MUni was done on non-splined axles. And it took another few years before more than a tiny percentage of MUni riders had them. My old carbon fiber MUni still has its original square taper hub. Of course it’s hardly been ridden since 2003. Also my two Cokers are doing fine, despite the many miles of MUni they’ve had on them. My newer one is basically MUni only. Of course I don’t do big drops on it.
I expect the Coker’s axle to fail eventually, even if just from hard cranking. But this may take many years. However if you like to hop a lot, on the trail or off, just get the splined axle now and save yourself the hassles…