24" Muni as a first Unicycle???

I have been wanting to try unicycling, more specifically mountain unicycling (basic trail riding in the Northeastern US), for a while now. While visiting a local bike shop I came across a Torker DX 24. It has a few scuffs and the the shop owner want to get rid of it. He offered it to me for $250. I have a shop credit so I would be out the door for even less.

My question is does a 24" Muni and the DX in particular, make a good first unicycle? What impact on learning to ride does the wheel diameter make? Would a larger or smaller wheel diameter be easier to learn on? I’m 6" tall and 250lbs if that make any difference.

Also what are the best practices on sizing the seat tube?

Thanks in advance, Jim , a total uni newbie

Welcome Jim.

The DX would be a fine uni for your purposes and the price is fair. I find the stock Kenda tire to be bit of a rough ride for learning. Tends to cause some extra unballances that might not be welcome in the learning stages but you would get by with it if its all you had. (I have a Hookworm on my DX for regular riding)

If by sizing the seat tube you mean at what height should it be set at, then usually it is recomended that you have more or less full leg extension as you would for regular bike riding.

Hey Jim–

Welcome to the forums!

A 24" uni is a little harder to learn on than a 20", but many people have successfully learned on 24s. A guy on the forums here (MuniVision) bought a KH24 (a $500+ mountain unicycle) when he saw one in his local bike shop (LBS), and learned to ride it pretty quickly, iirc. He’s a pretty experienced mountain biker, which may have had an effect on how quickly he learned.

The Torker is a decent uni. It’s pretty bombproof–you’d be unlikely to break it, even with really rough treatment. It’s heavy, though, compared to higher-end munis. The price he’s offering you is a little high, I think; you can buy one brand new for less than that on eBay, even with shipping. If he’ll drop the price another $50, I’d say it’s worthwhile. I paid a little less than that–$180, I think–for my son’s DX24 a couple years ago, buying it from the LBS that had it as a leftover from the Christmas season.

Good luck! Be patient with yourself as you learn. My youngest son (of 3) is now learning, and it’s reminded me of how long it can take. He’s doing pretty well, though, making 20 foot rides about every three tries. He’s been working at it for half-hour intervals about every other day for a couple weeks.

Thanks for the quick replies.

My mountain bike is a 29er Turner Sultan. When looking for beefy rims I came across the KH 29er rims which sparked by interest in Muni’s. I just want to make sure its as fun as it looks before I plunk down the doe for higher end model. Plus I’m not fully sure which wheel diameter will best match my riding style (once I actually have a style).

I’m prepared to give myself time to learn. My five year old learning his two wheeler and daddy on his unicycle, should make for some good laughs from the neighbors.

I will be sure to post back once I make a purchase.

I would go with a Nimbus instead of a Torker.

If you get a Nimbus with the KH cranks you would have a supper solid unicycle that is lighter has a better tire, rim and has much more standard parts so you could more easily try different crank lengths, upgrade parts, and replace broken bits for only $23 more than a DX.

+1
if you do manage to break anything, the parts will be more pricey/ harder to find, and you won’t have many options (none really) if you decide to experiment with crank length/ style.
with that being said, the dx is still a solid uni if you choose to go that route

I started out on Nimbus 24" Muni (I upgraded to Moment cranks) - I learned to ride on the stock 24x3 knobbly that came with the Nimbus, but recently changed it for a 24x2.5 Hookworm.

After the change I found it easier to make turns the unicycle and since I am mainly riding on the road at present (I do intend to Muni but need to learn/master the basic skills first) the slick Hookworm definately makes sense and saves the tread on my knobbly for when I venture off-road.

In short I think a 24" wheel is fine to learn on but would suggest a slick (rather than knobbly) tire to learn on.

Cheers

Simon

I started on a cheap 20", then after a week I got a Nimbus 24" muni. I rode on that until my son took it over, then I got a 26" muni, then a 29" muni, now I’m back to a 24" muni. When I teach someone to ride, unless they’rea small kid, I start them on my 24".

A lot depends on what you want to ride. If you want to ride muni, then geta muni. If you want to do trials or street, get a trials. If you’re absolutely serious about learning and you’re the type of personality that won’t quit until you get it, then I’d invest in a good uni to start, either a Nimbus or KH.

I thought I knew better than the forum, so I bounched around on sizes until I was a decent rider, then lo and behold I found myself riding exactly what the forum members told me to get in the first place :stuck_out_tongue:

The 2009 Nimbus 24" Muni, with brake mounts, outfitted with 150mm Moments and a KH Freeride seat will set you back ~ $325, but what a nice ride! I have one in orange, she’s a beauty :slight_smile:

My son has the KH 24" and it is exactly the same as mine other than the frame and rim drill outs. It’s just slightly lighter, not easy to notice. They ride the same, but the KH is way more.

Torkers are not bad, lots of folks have them, but if you think you’ll be switching parts, etc… you’re better off getting an ISIS hubbed uni.

Nimbus options

OK, following the general consensus, I’ve checked into the Nimbus 24-inch Muni.

Below are two setups, the stock Nimbus with KH cranks and a custom Nimbus assembled from parts (priced up at Unicycles.com).

I anticipate wanting to run brakes.

What are my options for mounting the brake lever with the stock nimbus saddle and post?

In the custom Nimbus below I went with the Nimbus seat post and KH saddle.
For brake lever mounting I can use the KH saddle mounted lever mount (http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=908).

The other two post options are the adjustable KH post (http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1274) which would also require the KH saddle mounted lever mount
or get the KH rail adapter with the brake lever mount and go with a Thomson post (http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=811).

Any suggestion in the area of saddles, post and brake lever mounting?

For a Uni how critical is saddle angle adjustment?

Also, on the Nimbus frames, are the decals easily removed or are they clear coated over?

Nimbus 24-inch MUni Cycle with 150mm KH Moment cranks:$342

Custom Nimbus: $414.78 (broken down below)

Frame: $42
Nimbus II 24-inch Frame with Brake Mounts:

Custom Wheel Build: $172.80
Kris Holm 24-inch Mountain Rim
Kris Holm 13 Gauge Black Spokes
Kris Holm Rim Strip - Blue
Kris Holm ISIS Moment Hub 2007
Labor

Tire: $49.99
Duro Racing Wildlife Leopard 24 x 3.0 DH Tire

Tube: $12.99
Duro 24 x 3.0 Heavy-weight Tube

Saddle: $34
Kris Holm Fusion Street Gel Saddle

Post Clamp: $6
Nimbus Double Bolt 2008 Colored - Black

Seat Post: $20
Nimbus CrMO Seat Post

Cranks: $77
Kris Holm ISIS Moment Cranks 2007

Pedals: $0
Speedplay Flats

Thanks again for the feedback and help

Unless there are others who have experience with the durability of the new KH post (and can attest to its strength for a 250-lb rider), I’d lean toward the rail adapter and a Thomson post.

I wonder if you could get by with less expense if you bought a stock Nimbus 24 w/Moments and purchased the seat components separately. Worth looking into. You might check into some of the threads for cheap KHs, too–a month or so ago, you could find an 07 KH24 for $410 shipped. feel_the_light on these forums seems to be a good source of info on these kinds of deals.

You know, I’ve just been thinking a bit about your situation. If you’re used to riding a 29er, and like that wheel size for its rolling momentum and ability to roll over rocks and roots, you might like a 29er muni, too. It puts more emphasis on finding flowing lines and lets the rider carry more speed through the trails. I have a 69er single speed bike, and mostly ride my KH29 muni because they have similar feel on the trail.

But a 29er might be a pretty tough wheel to learn on. You could buy a (relatively) cheapie 20 or 24 to learn on–a Torker LX is a good choice and can be found new for under $100–then graduate to the 29er once you’ve learned to ride. Then you pass along the learner uni to a buddy, and eventually form a muni club …

Anyway, it’s a thought.

I love how you save $100 by getting all the parts instead of the wheelset as a unit. Seems kinda backwards eh?

Nimbus decals are just stickers. Peel them off along with the ugly UDC sticker they put on the inside of the leg,

My only rail adaptor experience is with a T7 but it was enough to tell me that rails on a unicycle seat is not such a great idea. It is just another thing to break/bend. If you need more adjustment on the standard post you can just add some washers to the front. I would go with the standard seatpost and the saddle mounted lever mount.

If this was not my first uni I would be all over a bigger wheel (this is a pre-uni ownership assumption of course). But for learning and for holding up my fat @ss, I think a 24" will be the way to go.

Thanks for the tip on price. It prompted me to look around and I see the 08 KH 24 can be had for $490 shipped which is only about $60 more then the custom Nimbus when you factor in shipping.

So it looks like it will either be stock 08’ KH 24 or a stock Nimbus with KH cranks.

If I go the stock Nimbus route what are my options for mounting the brake lever? Can the KH mounting bracket shown below be made to work with the Nimbus saddle (tap new holes etc)? Just hoping the stock Nimbus won’t need $50 + worth of seatpost/saddle/brackets just to reliably mount a brake lever.

I think 24" (for an adult) is the best compromise size for a first uni unless you know your goal is flat/street/tricks, etc.

You are putting the cart before the horse you don’t need brakes, 3" tires, and Moments on your first uni.

You will have PLENTY to learn and practice before you need to worry about brakes and personally I would not want that brake lever under my seat while I was learning. You need to first learn how much hill you can handle using your legs as ‘brakes’. Learn to ride/mount/hop first and then add bits as you actually need them. Wait until you have learned and developed a length preference to invest in ‘Moments’.

The nice thing about uni’s is they are easy to upgrade. Break a pedal than get better ones. Bend/break a crank get better ones, same with rims, etc. As you priced out in your custom build, even a new frame (with brake mounts) is not very expensive.

If your intention is Muni get this and learn to ride: http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1050

This might be the only uni you need for a long time if you only ride once or twice a week, or if you take to it like a madman you can upgrade or get a KH or a 29" and keep the 24" and put a different tire and use it for street riding and lend to others to learn on.

Just my .02

You coud wait for the torker 09 :wink:

Yeah it works fine you don’t need to modify the saddle.

Perpetuating the meme I see.

A bit pressed for time or I’d find the link for you … but there’s a thread somewhere here that tells you how to make one of those brake adapters for about $2 in parts, and it looks pretty simple if you’re even only marginally handy.

I agree on the need for brakes. I just wanted to makes sure my upgrade path was clear.

The KH cranks for an extra $53 is a worthwhile upgrade in my book.