Okay, I’ll just shut up and wait for 2010. Can’t stand the waiting though, life is too short for waiting.
then make you own brake adaptors for your 29 frame
or measure the right sizes and let someone else make them for you
Hmm, I seem to remember reading about a dutch guy with access to a milling machine. I think he even made his own v-frame with it. Maybe that guy could help me out on this one… 
just a little dutch because that easyer so excuse me:
hey munirocks heb geen geavanceerde machines meer tot me beschikking maar wel annaloge freesbanken en dergelijke dus ik kan wel een adaptor voor je maken als ik de juiste maten weet
cant edit me reply so
but i have found the thread i was looking for:
i can gues the distance that they have to be lowerd but thats not that exact
so if someone has some drawings with measurements of it?
Just got my 2009 KH Freeride seat mounted, rode it yesterday.
At first glance the cushioing at the rear seems a little thin and a bit firmer, but after getting the seat angle corrected to accomodae the slight changes in the seat geometry, I really didn’t notice any problems with the seat in comparison to the 2008 Freeride.
The seat cover has a hidden draw string, which is nice, and the seat top is now a mesh, not sure how that will work with excessive sweating, though I’ll be sure to let you all know 
The seat attached with allen bolts and inserts, so a little better way to go than the cap nuts for finger clearance, etc… I did have to tighten the allen bolts once on the trail, but after than no problems.
I don’t believe the seat is significantly stiffer than the old Freeride; I compared it to two other Freeride seats, one that was well worn and one that was fresh. This is with a stock seat, no stiffener.
I’m thinking of getting the KH stiffener or making my own.
I noticed the exact opposite. We just got a new 09 seat; it is way stiffer than the older seats, which have excessive flex in them.
corbin
I compared them on the same unis, also had a 2009 KH Street Gel for comparision, all the seats felt about the same when I rode them and pulled up hard on the grab handles.
The flex is not terrible, I never really complained about the older KH seats (2007-08) but it makes me think that a carbon seat base is in my future; though I’d hate to get one and find it flexes just as much.
I think the seat is more comfortable, at the least there is less “settling into the seat foam” as there is on the older seats, so the seat feels like a Fusion Street with a center cut out and a little more cush at the rear.
So why did Kris go with a mesh seat? Is it that much better in terms of comfort or breathability? I’m concerned that this will lead to wet/mildewed seat foam, something that isn’t really an issue with an all vinyl seat. I’m assuming the mesh is not waterproof.
Anyone know when/where in the USA we’ll be able to buy the new KH Ti hub with the aluminum flanges?
OMG the Ti hub looks AWESOME, sweet carbon fibre. Nice work 
With a deep (30 mm) cutout and removable cover, the stretch mesh makes the foam more comfortable through the cutout by allowing it to fully stretch into the cutout when you sit on the saddle, and allowing some breathability. It’s quick drying stretch nylon, the same material as the rear and front panels, and the foam underneath is close-celled. Consequently this should not affect whether your saddle gets mildewed.
Kris
Thanks Kris, that has been my experience to date. I have been riding the 09’ Freeride for a few weeks, sweating a whole lot down here in the southeast US, no problems with seat wetness even when riding multiple days in a row.
BTW, though the foam feels different at first “squeeze”, I’m actually finding the new Freeride saddle to be quite comfortable. I still want a stiffener, but I’m holding out for one that goes between the seat and post (all four holes), or I’ll make one.
So Kris, just a couple questions:
Do you know when we’ll be able to purchase the new Ti Hub with the aluminum side? So far they only have the original Ti hub for sale. I have an original one already, nice hub, but due to spoke rub I want to try the new hub.
Also, have you considered offering a Moment “Lite” with a drilled out center? A couple folks have already experimented and it seems to be holdingup. I’m thinking of doing my own or buying some Echos, though I’d prefer to buy one from you 
Glad to hear the saddle is working out for you. =)
In the new saddle the internal reinforcement plate is positioned such that it’s main function is to act as a non-stretching bridge above the polypropylene base. In other words, it adds stiffness by resisting tension and compression, more than simply bending resistance, which takes better advantage of material properties than the old saddle. If you take off the foam you will see hooks on the ends of the reinforcement plate, which are part of that design.
It’s the same with the external reinforcement plate, which adds a box structure in conjunction with the top plate. That is why it adds so much stiffness without needing to go the whole length - it is being pulled and pushed, not bent.
UDC USA had a few of the existing Ti hubs in stock that they were selling before bringing in the new one. When they get the new one depends on how quickly those sell, so I’m not sure of a date.
Re a lighter Moment hub: Kelly Hickman has been testing a lighter Moment crankset for the past months. I don’t want to do a 2nd complete model; the goal is to trim off excess weight on the existing cranks insofar as is possible without breakage. Will keep everyone posted on developments here.
Kris
Thanks Kris, I understand that you mean by the push pull, so I’ll try out the stiffener.
A lighter crank would be great, I for one, though I weigh 200#, rarely do aggressive drops and such, so for mostly XC I just want a high quality crank that’s lightweight. I tried the QuAx, but the material is too soft and the splines strip.
Maybe UDC will make me a deal on one of those hubs
Onza Tensile cranks are great ! very light (410g - 140mm / KH Moment 612g - 137mm), little bit higher Q-factor than Moment, very beautiful but only existing in 140mm; I’m just using them on my 24" instead of dual 137/165 KH and I love them. With a pair of Wellgo MG1 pedals I saved a lot of grams !
Yeah, that would be a nice choice, but that’s too short for where I muni. I run 150’s on the 24" and 160’s on the 26". If the Onza design works for a 140, maybe it’d work for a 165?
The reason I like the idea of drilling holes in an existing crank is that it gives you the option of having a lighter crank with an existing model, and depending on length you can either increase of decrease the material removed.
All that’s holding me back is finding someone who’ll do the work.
I’m probably ordering some 165 Moments today unless I can find some used ones, then the machining begins
It’s not available for the longer cranks, but for road and street/flat riders it’s worth noting that the 110 mm and 110/127 mm Moment cranks have a wider/deeper cutaway in the back to reduce weight while keeping the stronger wide part of the I-beam.
Weights:
110: 442 g
110/127: 458 g
125: 552 g
Kris
KH24 weight = 7.05kg from http://www.krisholm.com/khu/kh24
KH26 weight = 6.15kg from http://www.krisholm.com/khu/kh26
KH29 weight = 6.20kg from http://www.krisholm.com/khu/kh26
KH36 weight = 7.34kg from http://www.krisholm.com/khu/kh36
Can anybody tell me why the KH24 is so much heavier than both the KH26 and KH29? Is it all in that 24x3 Duro tire???
Also what are 24x3 fans out there using these days? I’ve been a big fan of the 24x3 Nokian Gazz but now that its gone what are folks migrating to? Or is everybody making the jump to the 26" for all things MUni?
The tire, tube, and rim are all really heavy.
The Duro.
That pretty dang near settles me getting a 26" right there. I’m still thinking of getting the 29" though.