1st post; Never ridden a Uni; Got some Q's.

They’re both unicycles but that’s about where the similarities end…

You could buy a bicycle at Walmart for $125 or one from your LBS for $320. Why bother paying the difference there? It’s the same thing. :slight_smile:

Sorry, I’m not following your joke.

The two different unicycles with the two prices were from the same shop. I was just saying that as an entry level rider it probably wouldn’t make sense for me to purchase the more expensive model as my first ride. :slight_smile:

The only reason I was considering a 26 is because I know it’s easy to find tires in that size… I’m not sure how easy it will be to find 24" tires at my LBS. :thinking:

John all by himself is a wealth of information, usually very accurate. I disagree with him on this point and recommend that you get a 400mm seat post if you can. I have a 35" inseam and wouldn’t consider a 300mm post if 400mm was available.

It wasn’t a joke, just trying to make a point that there is a significant difference in the quality of unicycles, just the same as there would be with comparably priced bicycles.

Edit:
BTW, I’m 6’2", 180 lbs and ride the Nimbus 26". I also have a 24" learner that barely survived my learning process. In only six weeks I swapped out the bent cranks, broken pedals and then I got lucky and had the twisted hub replaced after convincing the LBS that it must have been defective!

I’m not trying to argue the 24 vs 26 inch “issue” here, so let me just say that right now…

That said, if I’ve never ridden any unicycle, ever, am I really going to notice how hard it is to train on a 24 vs a 26??
I am pretty darn tall after all, so I wonder if a larger wheel would seem, in comparison, like a smaller wheel to a smaller person. (where’s the dork smilie when you need it?!).

Again, I’m not trying to argue or question the good advise I’ve received here, I’m just trying to cover all my bases… Besides, spending too much money on something I have zero knowledge with is in my nature. :smiley:

That’s what I did when I bought my recumbent, my sea kayak, my last four motorcycles and my first banjo. :wink:

-T

An Irish, Australian and New Zealand thing too apparently…

I had a look on unicycle.com to compare some prices and see that we’re not talking about the same unicycles. The numbers I’m seeing there didn’t match up with the ones you quoted.

That said I think there’s a distinction to be made. There are cheap unicycles out there that will not take you beyond the learning process. Mine for example did not and I paid $150 CDN for it - and that’s before I started changing out broken parts. You don’t want one like mine. To be sure you’re not going to twist your hub while learning to freemount :frowning: I’d recommend something with an ISIS hub.

These are the two.

These are the two I was talking about… And I realize there are glaring differences. :slight_smile:

http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1335

http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1389

Then there’s this one (a 24), with better components.
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1057

-T

The first is a basic learner (it was my first uni) and it comparable to the Torker LX. The second is a MUni, which is a completely different beast. Unicycle.com doesn’t make a comparable learner 26" but the Torker LX is available in 26". The higher quality 24" would also be a fine learner and could handle all the riding you are planning (and much more) due to the stronger hub and rim.

Tim, I just got my Torker LX in today, and the seatpost os way too long for what I need. (I’ve got a 30" inseam) I’ll probably end up cutting 5 to 6" off the post to get to a managable height from an out of the box Uni. The tire tread looks like a hybred on/off tire, so traction on dirt or lawn may not be an issue.

Hope it helps

I don’t think being taller necessitates a larger wheel size - as long as you can get a comfortable saddle to pedal distance (i.e. a long enough post and, to a lesser extent, cranks) there’s no reason you couldn’t learn on a 20".

The main differences with the larger wheel would be increased height off the ground and a higher effective gear ratio. Being closer to the ground makes falls less scary and the decreased gear ratio makes control easier. Also traveling a shorter distance with each wheel revolution makes it easier to learn in a smaller area. To be sure, the difference between a 24" and 26" is pretty small - I wouldn’t make it the primary deciding factor.

It just might look silly for a regular giant to be hopping around on a trials. :sunglasses:

And we all know how important image is. :wink:

24" is a common size in unicycles. 26" is less common. I still recommend a 24" for you, as it will be much easier to learn all the basic moves on, including mounting in the open (freemount). Basic skills include things like riding backwards, idling and very sharp turns. All of these can be done on larger wheels but the wheel makes them more cumbersome to learn.

Yes, there are definitely less 24" tires out there to choose from, but unless you do lots of spinning around on concrete you won’t need replacements very often. And the best tires for 24" unicycles are always going to be a few clicks away. :slight_smile:

So if cruising is your goal, I’d get the 24" for now, and then decide later if you want to go from there to 29" or straight to 36".

Yup. https://unicyclist.com//t/uni-newbie-my-wife-thinks-i-am-a-dork/107331/1

OK, I think I must be missing something here. :thinking:

Wouldn’t the difference between a 24 and a 26 be 1" of added height from the ground to the crank hub? The seat wouldn’t be any higher off the floor, would it? You’d set it for where it was comfortable to sit on…

I understand the increase in gear ratio, and added room needed.

Well considering your concern over your back injury, it seems to me you would want to learn on the wheel that puts your body closest to the ground. I’m not sure why you want to make it harder than it has to be. It will be significantly easier to learn on a smaller wheel, once you learn how to ride, switching to a bigger wheel takes nothing. So why not take your lumps on the small wheel (24) and give your back a break, then go straight to the 36 and have a blast. The 24 will still see use down the road, it’s a great size to learn new moves on or just tooling around on.

The 24" will also give you the most Uni for your dollar.

I’m 6’1" with a 32" inseam… trust me, the 24" will fit you wonderfully. You need not worry about fit. Is there something else you are concerned about?

Again, I’m not arguing, I’m just asking. :smiley:

I’ll be getting Nimbus 24. :slight_smile:

+1, this fits my own learning curve exactly. Originally, my sole motivation for beginning unicycling was to own a 36er and go longer distance road rides. I bought a 24" feeling that I would not safely learn to ride the larger wheel. As it was I still got injuries learning on the 24" - pulled muscles etc. During learning I had to buy a new 24" tyre that was readily available online. I would say 24" is a relatively ‘safe’ size to learn on especially if you later intend to get into road unicycling with a larger wheel.

You’re right that the crank hub would be 1" higher. If the cranks are the same length, then the lowest pedal position will also be 1" higher. If you set your saddle position based on leg extension at the lowest pedal position then your saddle height will also be 1" higher. Like I said, it’s a very small difference and could be negated by using a longer crank on the 26".