November 2015
This is my log to build a budget Muni from spare parts.
I have:
Onza pedals (Green)
160 cranks
UDC steel seat post
UDC adjustable seat post clamp (not in the picture).
The green pedals don’t look right on my bright Orange Club 24" freestyle.
So back in the box they go.
I need a Muni, it needs to be green, and my rides will be on grassed areas or sandy beaches.
There is only one way to go => Oregon 26" fatty.
Completion date is to get rolling by September/October 2016, and fully disc braked by Christmas.
ETA is dependent on cash flow and skills progression.
Both are expected to be slow.
Things are starting to take shape from the original box of bits I had 2-months ago.
Bike24 supplied the DTspokes / 36h StarsCircle rim / Kenda tape / tube / tyre, and the Shimano brakes / olives / C bracket.
UDC (UK) supplied the Impulse hub.
The assembled weight of the wheelset is 4.3kg
The wheel will be nearer 5.3kg with the 550g cranks, and 450g pedals
This is the penalty for fitting a budget £31 double skinned rim - it’s heavy at 1,380g.
But I can live with that if it’s stronger, and easier to clean down.
Roger gave me a glimpse of the new alloy frame which is due to replace the 26" Oregon.
It is absolutely stunning to see in the flesh - the pictures don’t do it justice.
His prototype is featherweight light with the narrow 29" wheel fitted.
Hopefully I can gain some of the weight penalty back when the new frames arrive later in the year.
The old Oregon frame was around 1,200g.
I am hoping that the new one will be much lighter.
The larger 26x 5.0 wheel set-up is shown here on Rogers picture of the new frame design.
All I need now is the frame, saddle + brake handle, 27.2mm seat post and clamp.
My next update will be end of August-16.
The completion date is a long way away - so a tyre review will be in the Autumn of this year.
What I did notice is an out-of-balance sideways kick when I spin the wheel with the tyre on.
Either the tyre is out of balance, or the inner tube.
I can fix the wobble with sensible positioning of the cranks.
The wheel feels light enough in the hand, and not excessively heavy.
It is only when the assembly goes on the scales that the true weight shows itself.
I am comfortable with the heavier tyre on my 24" while I am learning, so i am not overly concerned.
It helps to generate gyroscopic effect, and stops me from “tripping” over on bad surfaces.
If the new alloy frame is 500g lighter than the old steel version of the Oregon, I should be able to break even with a 7.7kg cycle.
If I can save weight elsewhere, the final weight will be even lighter.
e.g. 400g cranks instead of the 550g Sinz, lighter pedals, seat, post etc
Ooops - I meant to say mine is the heavier, double walled rim.
The one you linked to is a lighter, single skinned rim.
The single walled rim would be more versatile.
I did consider cutting holes out of my rim, but it was impractical.
The close spacing of the 36-holes means that a 28mm hole cutter could be used, but not the 32mm.
28mm divided by the 80mm external width means that only 12% of the metal would be removed = 155g
It was not worth the trouble to save such a small weight.
I am confident that UDC can come up with the weight saving goods when I need them.
However, the tread behavior on a unicycle will be the same. I wonder if it will be bad (like the Surly Endomorph) or surprisingly okay (like the Maxxis Mammoth).
I’m just learning how to ride with a goal of muni riding by the end of summer. I was planning on buying a muni once I think I have enough skill. What are the benefits of building one as opposed to just buying one? Is so you get exactly want you want as far as color components etc? Is it cheaper? I see a lot of talk about weight and noticed that it’s usually small amounts (remember I’m a newbie) are those small amounts noticeable when you ride? Other than trials do you notice a big difference with different tires?
I found it easier to ride when I swapped the standard 1.95 tyre on my 24" club freestyle for a 1kg Schwalbe 24x2.35 (actual width = 2.45 inches)
The larger volume meant I could ride in a straight line, and cross un-even ground easier.
The extra tyre weight also made it easier to get past the 12 / 6 o’clock dead spot , and it kept me upright due to the gyroscopic effect.
The disadvantage of the larger / heavier tyre is less sensitivity for changes in direction or speed
i.e. less twitchy, harder to turn.
For learning I feel like I can go in a straight line, pedal smoother, and stay up longer with the extra rolling weight.
However - the club is a lightweight 5.9kg unicycle.
The fattie 26" will be around 8.1kg if I load it up with a steel Oregon frame (1,225g) standard saddle (800g) seat post (300g) Sinz cranks (550g) Onza pedals (450g)
Everything adds up, so it is going to be a heavy beast.
I have seen the new alloy Oregon prototype frame , but I don’t know how much lighter it will be.
If I can save 500-800g in a few areas, I can make up for the fact I didn’t buy the very expensive single walled rim with cut-outs by Surly.
The cheap wheel set shown above with new pedals and second hand cranks was only £162 all in
The Shimano brakes, brackets, and hose terminations = £30
All I need now is the frame and saddle to get myself rolling.
My target costs to build a fattie was less than £300 (<£360 with brakes).
The cost saving would have been around £300 using the £95 Oregon frame, if it was still available.
The new alloy frame and minor upgrades could easily push my budget up to £400.
This will be money well spent if the new frame is as good as the reports suggest.
It is going to be a long wait before this project is finished.
The parts to build a Nimbus Muni are more expensive than buying direct from Unicycle.com.
A 26" muni would be very similar to putting a fatter tyre on my club 24" - so I decided to go 26" x4" fattie instead.
More experienced riders can explain the weight advantage better than me.
I am happy learning to ride in straight lines at the moment, and the wheel momentum helps me.
With more skill, I will be reducing the weight for more responsive turns, easier braking, and more power when accelerating.
The Oracle and Nimbus Muni packages are hard to beat on price.
Also - keep and eye out for the deal of the week special offers on UDC (UK)
Both.
The inertia keeps the wheel rolling, and on wet pavements the wider tyre makes a bigger contact patch, and reduces side spin-out.
The wider footprint helps me to track in a straight line - especially on wet ground, or slippy pavements (I am UK based).
For Muni - my riding would be on disused railway line footpaths, on grassed areas, smooth trails, on hard sand at the beach.
I don’t need a knobbly tyre yet.
What I do need is lots of volume, a wider contact patch, and if possible, a larger diameter wheel to roll over minor obstacles.
Mud and snow riding are a long away for me.
I bought the Schwalbe at a good price, and I am very pleased with it.
Pump it up to 50-60psi and it turns nicely, with a fast response.
Let the pressure drop to 40psi and it sticks to the wet pavements.
The Kenda K-rad comes in a wider 2.35 size if you wanted to try a wider road tyre with a small block tread for off-road mini adventures.
If it were me, I would be putting that spare cash away for your next uni (as Killan has suggested already).
You have a 24" already.
Go for a 26" next.
Uni ready to ride now - brakes to be fitted by Christmas
All done at 7.5kg minus the brakes (total wt expected to be 7.8kg)
Myself and the Hatchet should be ready for the brakes by Christmas.
Potential upgrades in future, which may or may not happen - include:
160 cranks swapped out for 150’s or 140’s
Stadium saddle, or the new KH Street saddle I have fitted to the 20"
