Mountainuni Disc Brakes Have Arrived!

Like this one?

That brake will be fine, but you will need to pick up a 180mm FRONT adapter from the LBS. they are cheap. Florian said it was ok to run crank spacers on hubs that use the disc brake set up and they can be found here:

http://www.unicycle.com/unicycle-hardware/hubs-and-hub-assemblies/aluminum-isis-spacer-1.html/

8mm preferred, but 6mm spacer will work fine if you move 2 spacers from between the rotor and crank to the outside of the crank. we anticipate selling the crank spacers when the site is up!

Teaser…

the piece of 6061 yielded 58 UCM-1’s! should be done tomorrow afternoon and picking up Monday!

Quad QMD-6

I wrote to the folks at Quad and asked them for dimensions for the QMD-6. They sent me the attached photo.
So, does it look like this would work?

From the dimensions on that photo I would say the QMD-6 should work very well. The brake I modified is sitting at 39.14 for the spokeside measurement. The crankside measurement is 18, and the gap is the same.

For comparison the bb5 I have in my parts bin measures 40.5 on the spokeside. I have a bb7 on my Big Dummy that I can measure tomorrow, but my guess is that it’s a bit wider than the 5 considering it has an adjuster that the 5 doesn’t.

I for one would feel pretty confident picking up a QMD-6 now that I’ve seen the figures.

Photo of my setup with the shift lever drag

Here are some shots of my shift drag/cable caliper setup. You can also see my mount that bolts onto the Nightrider frame. It uses the hole that is already in the gusset, and a piece of heater hose for compressing into the space on the inside of the frame. There’s a second bolt that sandwiches the frame between washers with another piece of heater hose. The bracket itself is made of two pieces of angle assembled to make a sort of S bend.

My plan at some point is to get an old school Shimano DX 1 finger brake lever and put it in line with the shifter so that I have an intermittent brake option. The old DX levers worked in a similar way to the CrossTop levers you can get for CX bikes.

my finished mountainuni 36’er
specs:
kris holm freeride saddle
sinz double drilled 152/125 cranks
mountainuni disc brake
avid juicy 3 caliper
kris holm touring handle
coker tire
nimbus double wide square taper hub
nimbus nightrider square taper frame

Sweet, we have a 180mm Quad QMD-6 on the way for testing, I think ultimately we’ll be selling it! This will work for drag brake apps too! Jtrops set the standard on that one. I think what he did is elegant, minimalist, and cool!

I wonder with the nightrider wide hub and tall rim if the angle of the spokes is greater than on the 29er, I expect it will work on the 36er, unsure of smaller wheels.

I am running a different handlebar and tire, but yours reminds me of mine! I love it! Nice job on the cranks, did you drill and tap or did you have a machinist take care of that? well done either way dude.

I can’t wait to see the upgrade, especially with old school parts! (I have 2 hite-rite springs in their original packaging somewhere)! With a mech brake you can really dial in pad placement and modulation over a hydro set up. it’s trailside serviceable as well! I think we’ll have to carry a lever, cable and housing -or should MountainUni just sell the caliper? (Most folks can figure it out from there!)

this thread seems like a good idea.

One thing worth pointing out that I didn’t mention before is that the flanges on the Coker super wide hub are a little closer together than on the UDC super wide hub. It’s not much, but it’s enough that a nimbus hub won’t work on a Coker frame due to spokes hitting. Even still, it seems like there is ample room with the QMD-6 to allow for the wider Nimbus flanges. That will be the only thing I wouldn’t know from the measurements since I don’t have a Nimbus hub on my Nightrider.

no i got these from you guys!

wow. I thought we had moved all of those along. you got the last of ‘em. I like my dual holes and got MKS QR pedals for them! I had to mod the pedal to pass by the other chuck, so far -so cool. No big drops on those ok. if you ride the 150 holes and do big drops and stair sets, stress risers may appear on the 125 holes then bend or fail. I have not had issues, but I haven’t been rolling stairs or dropping 3’.

:thinking: Um, the specs show 37.7 for the distance you wrote is max of 36.1, right? Doesn’t that mean the QMD-6 is 1.6mm too wide?
And, do we know how the distances compare with a Schlumpf or KH hub, vs. the 36.1 measured on a Nimbus hub?

Sinz cranks $37.49

All sizes 135mm-180mm. Here.
Comes to $49.96 with shipping on one pair; free shipping if you get three.

That’s why I haven’t recommended it and have one on the way to test. I posted the link to an earlier post to make that point. Jtrops proved it on his 36er, but that doesn’t mean it will work on the 29er. It may be 2mm too wide, or if the bolt at the center of the arm is 1cm higher along the spoke from where I measured it may have the clearance. We’ll see! also, I’m using 8mm crank spacers, it may get too close if you are using 6mm spacers. We need to test this thing, but it is very promising.

That retailer is in short supply in those sizes and are blowing ISIS shorty sinz out of inventory. We just scored a bunch but can’t compete with the blow out prices. We have a solution for the cranks once the shorty isis sinz dries up. We just need to raise the $, and selling our sinz will make that happen.:smiley:

I am nervous about clearance between the caliper mount bolts on the inside of UCM and the side of the schlumpf hub shell, even with the 3mm counterbore. It will be tight.

Florian Schlumpf reminded me to mention this…

A general comment on your system:
the idea is very interesting! I only see a problem, that some riders may not be aware of.
If you activate your brake and shift at the same time, there is no braking during change of gear. This may cause an over-reaction and a rider could pull the brake lever even harder. When gears engage again, the wheel is blocked due to the hard braking…

I don’t see a critical situation for the hub, but a danger for an unexperienced user.

You probably should add a warning, that unexpected situations may occur, if a rider shifts and brakes at the same time.
Ask Jogi, he is very experienced.