I’ve been experimenting with braking while shifting too. Sometimes it can really be helpful.
This will not work with disk brakes, though…
Unicycle dot com in Australia have some Schlumpf hub(s) for sale:
HUB
Would make a nice Christmas present for someone 
I received mine after ordering direct from Florian–good experience. Had the wheel built for my KH29 and tried it for the first time today. It is harder than I thought it would be to ride. I have a number of changes happening at once…150 cranks, different tire, and geared hub. The little bit of play necessary to make the shift work is giving me trouble, however. Tell me this goes away! It feels a lot different than my fixie and I am having a bit of trouble getting used to it on day 1…
Carey
Geared hubs are a whole new animal. The slight play in the cranks will stop bothering you after a while. I barely notice it anymore. In fact, I think riding the Schlumpf has taught me to be a more consistent spinner, with more of a constant “push” on the pedals so the play is even less noticeable while cruising.
Riding in high gear is also a new kind of riding. For someone who’s been unicycling for many years like me, it’s a nice new challenge. I like it! Still a long way to go before I would call myself a “solid” or “comfortable” shifter.
Shifting with 150’s can be a little challenging. I tried the 125 holes on my KH24 guni, and found shifting to be a snap. Perhaps even a bit too easy, since I made an accidental downshift at high speed on rough terrain and went down hard. As far as the play, I hardly even notice it anymore. Give it time and it will get programmed into your brain and become automatic.
putting together my dream Schlumpf 36er
I debated posting this in “Schlumpf hubs: general discussion” rather than resurrecting an old thread but I think it fits better here because my question is similar to the one Tuscon Uni asked back in March of 2010 though if I were naming a new thread it would be called “The logistics of putting together my dream 36er”. I use the term “putting together” rather than “building” lest someone get the false impression that I am the least bit mechanically inclined. On that note, I will be seeking advice on the proper tools (torque wrench, etc…) to perform routine maintenance. Anything more complicated would be done by Scheller’s cycling my LBS. So let’s go under the assumption that I don’t have a lot of tools (my toolbox is pitiful) or spare unicycle parts (aside from a crank wrench, an ISIS puller, and spare set of KH 125/110’s) lying around. I am pretty much starting from scratch. All I’ve got is a bunch of money (a very understanding wife) and the need for speed.
Proposal #1 Keep it simple stupid (KISS)
Hub: KH MUni Schlumpf hub
Frame: late model (post 2007) Kris Holm (aluminum) 36er ($300)
Cranks: KH dual hole 165/137 Moments
Brakes: Magura (though I’ve heard old caliper V brakes rub less)
Rim: Nimbus Stealth Pro (just like the one on my Impulse)
Tire: Nimbus Nightrider
Seatpost/Handlebar (the Shadow just like my Impulse)
Saddle: new Fusion “slim” saddle
Lights: GeoManGear MagicShine in the front, planet blinky on back
Pros:
Zero chance of voiding the warranty on my Schlumpf hub by using the exact frame and cranks that Florian and Kris recommend.
Keeps my instructions for Bronson Silva simple. Build my hub into a stock KH 36er.
I will get my equipment shipped sooner keeping the customization to a minimum. Just have Josh at UDC drop ship all the parts at Silva cycles.
Slightly cheaper than “go all out” proposal # 2
Cons:
The disc brakes on my Nimbus Impulse have me spoiled rotten to the smooth modulation of disc brakes. I have heard the Maggie’s can rub (flex lessened by the rigidity of the KH frame) and be a bit grabby which would not be good at speed. Come to think of it, the brake is the one and only con of proposal # 1
Proposal # 2 “go all out” and get the most gorgeous rig (see Jogi’s picture in the “MountainUni Disc Brake Setups thread”) that I have ever had the pleasure of laying my eyes on.
Hub: KH MUni Schlumpf hub ($1,500)
Frame: Triton (titanium) 36er ($600)
Cranks: Sinz 165’s (easy to find my preferred long cranks)
Brakes: MountainUni disc brake (tabs on Triton eliminate the need for UniCaliperMount (UCM) and any headaches that might come along with bolting on)
Rim: Nimbus Stealth (guess I don’t need the “pro” without rim brakes)
Tire: Nimbus Nightrider
Seatpost/Handlebar (the Shadow just like my Impulse)
Saddle: new Fusion “slim” saddle
Lights: GeoManGear MagicShine in the front, planet blinky on back
Pros:
A disc brake is so darn smooth and the hills of Kentucky (tomorrow is Derby Day!) require a brake even with my long cranks.
Cons:
A little more expensive but money is no object (reliability & durability are).
I’ve heard rumor the titanium frame rides “smoother” for MUni which I could only assume transfers over to my roads and 100 mile paved bike loop.
Logistics – Ship it from UDC, to Silva Cycles, to MountainUni, and finally to me. I would be lucky to get it by 2012. Worth the wait?
Summary: I am dead serious about getting my order in before month’s end. I’ve got a fist full of cash burning a whole in my pocket. I am dead set on a 36er to suit my “out the door and up the road” riding style. I am keeping my Impulse to serve as a back up when my Schlumpf is out of commission which I expect and accept to be fairly often. Any advice you may provide would be greatly appreciated.
Dude if you’ve got the cash i’d go with option 2. However, I’m not completely sold on the advantages of Ti for frames (except the bling/bragging power). I would have a mind to go with option 2 but stick with the KH frame and use the Caliper Bolt on mount by Mountainuni. With the extra cash, buy a few pairs of nice cycling nics, some wellgo MG1 pedals, a pair of 5:10 shoes, a decent touring handle, and something nice for the wife who seems to be supportive of your hobby.
I love building projects, i hope you have fun with the whole process and that it goes smoothly.
Mark
Get the wheel built up by Bronson. he can get the hubs and any parts you need.
I ordered mine today, he knows what he’s doing.
I am going to start with rim brakes, then try the disc brakes.
26 guni for me
I don’t think ti frames are better than al or steel, the kh aluminum frame is very good, maybe better than ti, depends who you ask.
You have an impulse disc 36er now? If I were you I’d get the schlump wheel built, then mount a disc brake off the existing mount and shim it to fit the mountainuni disc brake cranks. That way you can swap wheels at will.
Congrats Ben! I Wana see the g26 beast when it’s done!
I ordered the G26 as well, about 3 weeks ago. Did he give you an estimate on when he’ll be getting your hub?
might pull the trigger tomorrow
That is exactly what I should do. I’m just so spoiled by the disc brake on my Impulse. If I were going to start with rim brakes, I could place my order tomorrow. If the KH frame don’t flex, brake rub is a non-factor. To be honest, the only reason I even considered the Triton is the weld on mount rather than a KH with a bolt on UCM. I’m not much a bling factor kind of guy.
Loving my Impulse, I insist on keeping it stock as a complete back up ride for when my Schlumpf is in the shop. I have heard that same suggestion from MountainUni1 and kb1jki but I think they are just digging the irony of mounting a UCM on an Impulse frame.
well, Idunno if it’s proper to brag about someone else’s rig, but…
The Schlumpf/Uni-Caliper Mount-MountainUni disc/Kh works, why wouldn’t it work on an impulse frame? (Yeah, it’s ironic to put MountainUni disc on an Impulse frame, but why fix what ain’t broke? The impulse is a beautiful frame, Then again so is the KH and Triton for that matter… I understand your dilemma!)
How to purchase torque wrenches for your Schlumpf
I thought the “How to order a Schlumpf hub” thread would be a good place to ask the experts about torque wrenches. I vowed to spare no expense on routine maintenance so i guess i will bite the bullet and purchase the ratcheting “click type” by Park Tools.
The TW-5 3-15 Newton Meter range (26-132 Inch Pounds) Adjustable to 0.4 Nm increments has a ¼” drive with 3/8” adaptor that should fit the Allen bit 6mm for 3/8” wrench or torque wrench that Florian includes in the package. Kris says “When fitting the hub, Tighten the Allen screws on the side with the knurled bearing sur-face to moderate hand pressure (max. 5-6 Nm)” but then there are a few places where the torque of the clamp screws work very well with 4 Nm. There is a warning that the bearings may get damaged when the torque is too high.
The TW-6 10-60 Newton Meter range (88-530 Inch Pounds) Adjustable to 0.2 Nm increments that should fit any old 8mm Hex Bit Socket. Florian says “Please use a torque wrench and tighten crank arm to 50-55 Nm (40 lbft).” (note to self: corbin uses use 25-30 ft pounds, which is 33-40Nm and thinks 50Nm is too high, and deforms the soft aluminum.)
The TW-6 is $120 and the TW-5 is $100 !ouch! Is there a cheaper way? Do I need to buy any other tools to prepare for my Schlumpf hub? I never used my CCP-22C Cotterless Crank Arm Removal Tool. Chickened out and had my LBS change the cranks on my Impulse. I don’t want to purchase more tools than I need.
For the lower range, I got a torque wrench at Sears for around $60 (but it may have been on sale).
I figured precision not quite as critical for the crank bolts, so I got a cheap torque wrench in the higher range at Harbor Freight Tools. It was $30 or so.
Hey Terry, I don’t know if our orders are coming in the same shipment, you orderd a few weeks before me…
I was hoping to have it before leaving for Colorado in early June, but I’d be suprised if it makes it on time, but I’m hoping
I think yellow/silver/black is a nice color combo
Yeah I ordered mine about 3 weeks ago, but I don’t know how soon Bronson actually ordered it, as I just told him I wanted one over the phone, and he said it would take about a month. I just got an email from him a few days ago, and he estimates another couple weeks or so.
I am waiting too. The best thing to do is to put it out of your mind and be surprised when it finally shows up. The one I ordered last year took about 3 months. Bronson said it has been quicker lately, but there are no guarantees.
Tom Petty’s Heartbreakers say “Waiting is the hardest part”
Heck, I’ll be “surprised” if I can ride the darn (KH36G) thing! I switched cranks (from 150/125 to 165/137) on my Impulse a while back in preparation. I’ve been practicing simulated shifting with my 5.10 Impact HighTops. My SpeedPlay Drillium pedals (those things are already scary should I need to bail at speed) keep my feet in place pretty well. My goal building my KH36G was to keep all the things I love about my Impulse. Same pedals, same tire (Nightrider), same rim (Nimbus Stealth Impulse - could have saved a buck with Stealth Pro but I like my drilled rim), same (Shadow) handlebar, same seat (hoping the new “slim” freeride will be available by then), with the only change being brakes (from Disc to Maggie) and hub.
I have been looking at torque wrenches and ran across this website:
http://www.wihatools.com/200seri/291serie.htm
They sell fixed-torque screw drivers that might be useful on a Schlumpf hub. Apparently the shift-button screw should be tightened to 2 Nm. The Wiha website sells a relatively inexpensive fixed 2 Nm driver (which would need the appropriate allen head–available elsewhere on their website.)
Would the Wiha tools be useful for maintaining the Schlumpf hubs?
Scott
Are you sorry you said “Let me know if you have any questions” yet?
Dear Sir,
I hope this email finds you well. I am riding my Nimbus (disc) Impulse more these days in anticipation of my KH-Schlumpf. I’m finding double hole (165/137 Moments) cranks benefit from a Quick Release (QR) seat post clamp. I hear rumor that Hope makes really a nice one and I see UDC has QR clamps from Nimbus and Salsa. I would be interested in your thoughts on best brand. Perhaps, in addition to the 27.2mm Kris Holm Double Bolt Seat Post Clamp (black is fine), I could purchase from you two QR clamps. One 27.2mm for my new KH36G and one 25.4mm for my Impulse.
On seat posts, I see UDC has the 27.2 Pivotal (required for Shadow Handlebar) Seat post in 260mm. I ordered my Impulse with a 4" seat post and it was way to short (I’m 5’ 10" 160) for my long cranks. The 260mm should work fine. I do own a pipe cutter. I’ve got some blue Loctite threadlocker for that “pivotal” seat bolt. Roger says he’s reinforced the latest Shadow handle. Mine (1st gen) broke (right at the weld same as others on forum) fairly easily. I took it to my local welder. It ain’t pretty but it is holding. I check it after each UPD.
I have my Impulse Shadow set up (curve up, grips out just like the main picture on UDC) to protect my Bengal Helix 1.1 brake lever when I drop it. I am concerned the Magura’s Spooner lever may stick out too far. I hope not. What would be ideal is to have an alternate place to mount the Spooner under the seat so I could remove the Shadow handlebar for the trails. I know John Foss has a Shadow on his KH36G. I will ask him.
On the saddle, Kris Holm says his new Fusion “Slim” saddle will be at UDC in 1-4 weeks (as of 04/26/2011). That is the saddle that I want if it’s on time. Otherwise I guess I will settle for another Fusion Freeride (Blue or Black are fine). Finally, I think blue rim strip looks nice in drilled rims.
I an tempted to order spare gear shift buttons (steel, gold plated / chrome plated) but they are CHF 18 per unit so I think I will play it like the others and hope that you’ve got extras on hand. On second thought, go ahead and order me a pair. Do I also need and extra set of “Spare Axel Bolt” CHF 16? I will stop short of buying the CHF 120 Torque screw driver (preadjusted torque of 2Nm) for the gear shift buttons.
That is all I can think of right now and I have again taken up too much of your valuable time so I will close with this. I’m no mechanic so I trust your judgment implicitly. Florian and Kris designed the KH-Schlumpf hub to work best with KH frames and cranks so I am going with genuine KH parts. I will have to learn to deal with Magura Hydro brakes. Did I mention I love the disc brakes on my Impulse? My best speeds to date are dragging that brake on a gradual downhill.
My plan is to break my new hub in slow using only the high gear (buttons off) checking/tightening my cranks every 5 miles for the first 20. Any advice you provide is appreciated. I pledge to do whatever it takes (routine maintenance, mostly road with no big drops) to prevent a hub malfunction but I am keeping my Impulse intact for the worst case scenario.
Sincerely,
David Hood