GUni: Shifting Techniques

[MuniAddict]

I've been experimenting with a few new, alternative shifting techniques over the past weeks, (mostly for the sheer fun of it) including one that I named the "toe shift", and the "Heel kick shift". All these, as well as the first one below, are done in static, momentary still stand. The other two are done while in motion.

On this morning's ride I came up with a few more. The first is what I call a "Hand Shift". Also an "Idle shift", and the hardest one I've tried yet, the "backward shift"!

During the ride I also experienced the dreaded BEARING SLIP! (Caught on video) Yesterday I had been trying several different tire & tube combinations, so the bearing caps were taken on and off many times. After the last combo I set the GUni aside, and had dinner. I was planning to decide on which tire and tube was best, and then I would properly torque the bearing caps before my next ride.

But this morning, in my excitement to get going, I just grabbed my GUni and proceeded to the trail, totally forgetting about torquing the caps! Well, for the first hour all was normal and nothing happened. Then while upshifting-- form a dead start--it slipped, and the uni flew back and I flew forward! It was a shock, but as soon as it happened I remembered my stupid oversight from the night before.

Well, I'll never let that happen again!


You can see the shifting in this new video:

Shape Shifter! - YouTube

[LoneReaction]

Haha, the sky got too excited watching you muni, that's why!

[unihopper]

Cool video! I really liked the backwards view off of the mountain bike!

[Grizoo]

Great angle to film from a completely different and fasinating perspective!
Very much enjoyed, thank you More!!!

[MuniAddict]

After learning how to shift in the usual way, I thought it might be fun to try to come up with more unusual ways to shift. So far, I have done the following shifts below. All were done from 1:1 to high, but can also be done as a downshift as well. If anyone else has come up with any other unusual ways to shift, please let us know!

1-4 are done in a static still stand, 5 and 6 while in motion.

1. Toe shift
2. Heel kick shift
3. Tire grab/kick shift
4. Hand shift
5. Idle shift
6. backward shift

After seeing my last video, Jamey Mossengren thought of another "unorthodox" shifting method to try, and one that I will try next: Shifting while one-foot pedaling! That could literally throw you for a loop!

[MuniAddict]

Originally Posted by LoneReaction

Haha, the sky got too excited watching you muni, that's why!

Luckily not enough for a lightening strike! An mtber said as long as your on your wheel(s) the rubber tire would protect you from lightening. Not too sure about that!

Originally Posted by unihopper

Cool video! I really liked the backwards view off of the mountain bike!

Thanks, yeah I thought that would make for a cool view. But it was hard to match my speed with the bike in front when he was speeding up and slowing down. I could have gone faster but then I would've gone out of view.

Originally Posted by Grizoo

Great angle to film from a completely different and fasinating perspective!
Very much enjoyed, thank you More!!!

Thanks, and welcome to the uni forum!

[King Of Suede]

I was trying to explain this thing to my friends who are very interested in my riding (but refuse to ever try )
And they would NOT believe that it was possible xD

[MuniAddict]

Originally Posted by King Of Suede

I was trying to explain this thing to my friends who are very interested in my riding (but refuse to ever try )
And they would NOT believe that it was possible xD

What wouldn't they think was possible, riding a unicycle, the shifting, or just the fact that we now have geared unicycles?

[johnfoss]

Originally Posted by MuniAddict

An mtber said as long as your on your wheel(s) the rubber tire would protect you from lightening. Not too sure about that!

Me neither. In a car, you're protected from lightning by the metal shell around you (Corvette drivers take note). No such luck on a unicycle, and the tiny gap between your rim and the ground is nothing for a massive lightning bolt...

Cool video and shifting! I liked the squeak of protest your uni made when the bearing slipped. I would learn such techniques if my hub were on a smaller wheel (or any wheel; hopefully Florian is working on it now). I'm just happy to be getting more consistent on my "regular" shifts.

[MuniSano]

Thanks for these MuniAddict! I don't know why I never thought about static shifting. Never occurred to me to try. Since I'm opposite footed as you, my static heel shift is to high-gear, which is good and fairly easy to do for me. The toe shift? Not so much as of yet. I found the static "up-shift" to be very handy when I'm starting out heading downhill, especially when it's steep. I found it can take forever to up-shift on the steep downhill because of the torque I'm putting on the cranks. But a quick static up-shift works quite well as I can impart just enough momentum to get going, much easier than trying to freemount in high-gear.

[wouter]

wow, nice technique (I think, muni is not my disipline)

[mbalmer]

Originally Posted by MuniSano

Thanks for these MuniAddict! I don't know why I never thought about static shifting. Never occurred to me to try. Since I'm opposite footed as you, my static heel shift is to high-gear, which is good and fairly easy to do for me. The toe shift? Not so much as of yet. I found the static "up-shift" to be very handy when I'm starting out heading downhill, especially when it's steep. I found it can take forever to up-shift on the steep downhill because of the torque I'm putting on the cranks. But a quick static up-shift works quite well as I can impart just enough momentum to get going, much easier than trying to freemount in high-gear.

Can you upshift on a downhill with the brake on? I have thought about it but haven't tried it. I'm just happy to be shifting on flat-ish stuff just before a climb or on a peak before descending.

You, who adapt to this thing right away, are lucky. It's taken me a long time to get it. It's become my favorite on-road unicycle (and I never thought I would be able to say that).

[MuniSano]

I can definitely up-shift while on the downhill, but it seems to be easier when I'm not applying as much torque on the cranks. So to accomplish that I either apply a bit of brake or attempt to "soft pedal" on the cranks. Both methods seem to work, especially when done together. I just know it sometimes takes several more revolutions to up-shift on the down hill than it does for me on the flats; thus the static up-shift solution really seemed to help me.

[mbalmer]

Originally Posted by MuniSano

I can definitely up-shift while on the downhill, but it seems to be easier when I'm not applying as much torque on the cranks. So to accomplish that I either apply a bit of brake or attempt to "soft pedal" on the cranks. Both methods seem to work, especially when done together. I just know it sometimes takes several more revolutions to up-shift on the down hill than it does for me on the flats; thus the static up-shift solution really seemed to help me.

So on a downhill you come to a complete stop (static), engage button, and go? Will this work on the uphill for a downshift? My biggest problem is going up a hill in second and then it becomes too steep for second, but I can't shift with the torque on the pedals. Stop, shift, and go. I'm glad I have a small wheel.

[Nurse Ben]

Hitting the shift before you need it seems to be the key, just like on bikes, so a missed shift is a deal breaker if you wait to long; of course we all wait as long as possible

I got some good shifts last night when transitioing from double track to steep single track, but still had to stop and downshift on one transition when I missed the shift twice.

I had a good ride last night, didn't mind the 137's that much, was able to handle most tech sections, though there were a few places, esp on steep downhills, where I could use some more crank length.

Uphills, even when technical, seem to be less of an issue with short cranks.

I wish there was a 135-140 low Q crank that fit the hub. The K1 goes on too far and hits the bearing holders, the KH is not low Q.

Anyone using 140mm Tensiles?

What I'd really like to see is Venture II's in a size range with breaks every 10mm

100, 110, 120, 130, 140, 150, 160, 170