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Old 2010-06-06, 01:30 PM   #16
Mountainuni1
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Albee where in VT are you? I ride in Stowe a fair bit.
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Old 2010-06-06, 04:42 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by jtrops View Post
The holes on the drill guide are spaced 3/4" center to center. That works out to 19mm's. I wanted 20mm's, so I think I can live with 19. This will make my cranks 140,121, and if I decide to put a third hole in 102.

The cranks should be here in a couple of days. I'm going to go to the used too shop in town to see if they have the doweling jig; otherwise I'll probably pick up a cheap one from Harborfreight.

I still need to figure out how to attach to the existing pedal threads. Any ideas?
take an axle out of a pedal and put it through the first hole of your doweling jig
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Old 2010-06-06, 05:22 PM   #18
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Double Hole Cranks

Hi Guy's,
I'm an older rider that has alot of bicycle experience and parts/toys. So when my kids were young, to take them on the tandem I put adapters on the cranks so they could pedal also, by shortening the crank length. These were available at the LBS. and will not ruin a "hollow forged" crank that alot of manufacturers are puting on Uni's. So guys its up to you to decide. These are for 1/2" 20 pedals, but I'm sure KB1JKI might want to make up some for you if you are nice. These I don't use so if there is interest I will let them go. These went under the name "Dawin's Pedal Adapters" (79 cents)

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Old 2010-06-06, 05:36 PM   #19
kb1jki
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Hi Guy's,
I'm an older rider that has alot of bicycle experience and parts/toys. So when my kids were young, to take them on the tandem I put adapters on the cranks so they could pedal also, by shortening the crank length. These were available at the LBS. and will not ruin a "hollow forged" crank that alot of manufacturers are puting on Uni's. So guys its up to you to decide. These are for 1/2" 20 pedals, but I'm sure KB1JKI might want to make up some for you if you are nice. These I don't use so if there is interest I will let them go. These went under the name "Dawin's Pedal Adapters" (79 cents)

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I've seen your posts and your work out on the threads! If I can get them built, it would be cool to play with but these guys really worry about Q. I don't think those adapters would like hopping too much either. The simplicity is good.


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Old 2010-06-06, 06:13 PM   #20
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take an axle out of a pedal and put it through the first hole of your doweling jig
That's the basic idea that I'm going off of. There are two concerns that I have come up with:

1. I need to make a fairly snug fit between the pedal axle and the jig.
2. I need to somehow tighten the jig to the pedal axle from the top.

As for the first concern I might be able to bore out the hole to match closely the diameter of the axle.

My idea right now for the second concern is to put a spacer between the jig and the end of the axle so that I can use a nut on the axle threads to secure the jig to the axle.

We'll see how it works out. So far nobody has given me any reasons to think this won't work, and that's a good sign.

lobbybopster: The cranks I'm getting are solid all of the way through. I know it's a concern with the hollow cranks, or even the milled cranks.
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Old 2010-06-06, 06:28 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by jtrops View Post
That's the basic idea that I'm going off of. There are two concerns that I have come up with:

1. I need to make a fairly snug fit between the pedal axle and the jig.
2. I need to somehow tighten the jig to the pedal axle from the top.

As for the first concern I might be able to bore out the hole to match closely the diameter of the axle.

My idea right now for the second concern is to put a spacer between the jig and the end of the axle so that I can use a nut on the axle threads to secure the jig to the axle.

We'll see how it works out. So far nobody has given me any reasons to think this won't work, and that's a good sign.

lobbybopster: The cranks I'm getting are solid all of the way through. I know it's a concern with the hollow cranks, or even the milled cranks.
find a pedal spindle that uses cartridge bearings and bore the hole in the Jig large enough to press in the bearings, there won't be any play, but you could screw down the jig onto your crank arm from the top. I'd weld a rod across the top of the pedal spindle in the jig to form a t-handle.
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Old 2010-06-07, 12:10 AM   #22
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find a pedal spindle that uses cartridge bearings and bore the hole in the Jig large enough to press in the bearings, there won't be any play, but you could screw down the jig onto your crank arm from the top. I'd weld a rod across the top of the pedal spindle in the jig to form a t-handle.
That's an excellent idea. In effect it will be like a really funky pedal. Now I just have to think about how to incorporate your idea, but have changeable spindles for the right and left sides.

I really think this will work. I'm pretty excited about getting some dual hole cranks for my square taper Coker hub.
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Old 2010-06-07, 12:36 AM   #23
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That's an excellent idea. In effect it will be like a really funky pedal. Now I just have to think about how to incorporate your idea, but have changeable spindles for the right and left sides.

I really think this will work. I'm pretty excited about getting some dual hole cranks for my square taper Coker hub.
try speedplay pedals
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Old 2010-06-07, 10:54 PM   #24
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Albee where in VT are you? I ride in Stowe a fair bit.
I am in Burlington.
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