Nimbus Shadow Handle first impressions

[johnfoss]

Yes, my Shadow Handle broke on the weld, just like some others before me. That was back in December, and I received it in June 2010, so pretty sure it was the 1.0 version. My replacement hasn't shown any signs of weakness yet! I ride with the curved handle, curve down, fully extended.

[rogeratunicycledotcom]

Originally Posted by DavidHood

My question is: would it help if I took it to my welder BEFORE it breaks as sort of a preventative measure? If not, I might switch the new base on my KH36G with the ugly welded base from my Impulse. I walked over 5 miles to the Jeep the day it broke and I do not want to do that again nor do I want the fear of hiking it out of the woods restricting the distance (away from Jeep) I am willing to travel.

If you have the replacement version it should be ok. There was a batch that were not as strong as they should have been. The replacement batch is considerably stronger version than the first batch and you should not worry about it.

If you weld the second version you will weaken it, not strengthen it, as it has been post production hardened and any additonal welding will aneal it.

To check if you have the stronger version, look underneath and underside of the base and you should see a triangle of weld on the front and back tube.

If you think have an earlier version do contact your supplier.

Roger

[Rowan]

Originally Posted by rogeratunicycledotcom

To check if you have the stronger version, look underneath and underside of the base and you should see a triangle of weld on the front and back tube.

If you think have an earlier version do contact your supplier.

Roger

Are you saying we should get the earlier version replaced before it fails?

I've started using my shadow handle for my 28". I finally bought some loctite and the bolt hasn't come loose so far. I'm not daring enough to try any angle adjustment on it after the frustration it gave me coming loose at the start. I was quite pleased at how the Shadow handle transformed my old 07' Fusion freeride flexy saddle into a much stiffer ride.

It must be a typo on Unicycle.co.nz where it says

Originally Posted by http://www.unicycle.co.nz/shop/unicycle-parts/saddle-parts/Nimbus-Shadow

Note: not compatible with pre-2009 saddles. Compatible with 2009 KH saddles and 2009 Nimbus Gel saddles.

It contradicts the selling point-

Originally Posted by http://www.unicycle.co.nz/shop/unicycle-parts/saddle-parts/Shadow-base

Compatible with both newer and older saddles (pre- and post-2009 saddle design changes), as there are two sets of bolt holes at the rear.

Which is awesome because the KH stiffener plate is not compatible with the pre-2009 saddles.

Please can someone post pictures of the second version with the reinforced triangle weld?

[One Wheel Good]

Originally Posted by Rowan

Please can someone post pictures of the second version with the reinforced triangle weld?

sorry about the quality . . bad phone pic but should serve.

[Kartochitatel]

I like my handlebar - my friends says tht i looks more professional wiith it =)
About version 1.0 - it was broken one time - and shop changed me that to new handle part - so I ride carefully now.

[DavidHood]

Originally Posted by rogeratunicycledotcom

If you weld the second version you will weaken it, not strengthen it, as it has been post production hardened and any additonal welding will aneal it.

I certainly wouldn't want to aneal had to look that one up it. My base 1.0 was actually welded at a boat shop. We were on vacation at the lake when it broke. He did me a huge solid that day and the weld is holding. I've dropped it hard (bigger UPDs than the one that did it in) plenty since then and it is still rock solid.

Originally Posted by rogeratunicycledotcom

If you think have an earlier version do contact your supplier.

Does that mean I can steal second base? Now that I own two sets of Shadow handlebars, having an extra $65 base on hand might not be a bad idea for roadtrips.

My quiver this summer will be the double threat KH36G and Nimbus "disc" Impulse which gets 3 big grins cause that is exactly how I've looked for 10 miles 3 days a week since it hit the market. I absolutely love it! I've been intending to write (too busy riding) a review. Plan to keep my Impulse intact for my kids to grow into but it's more like my security blanket in case my Schlumpf needs shipped in for repairs but hopefully, with the help of the forum, I will be able to keep both in running condition. I'm living proof that you don't have to be a bike mechanic to own an Impulse. You don't have to be 6' tall (the Shadow saves space) or the Hulk (it's pretty darn light) and you don't have to be a pro unicyclist (my 1st wheel after a 30 year intermission) to learn to drag that silky smooth disc brake down a gradual hill to hear the wind whistle. I'll put it this way. If you ever see my Impulse on the trading post, buy it. It's a real jewel.

[TonyMelton]

Originally Posted by Rowan

It must be a typo on Unicycle.co.nz where it says

It contradicts the selling point-
Which is awesome because the KH stiffener plate is not compatible with the pre-2009 saddles.

Fixed that typo!

[DavidHood]

My Impulse shipped with the brake line and lever attached. I never bothered to cut down one of (the straight one) the handlebars or stop by my LBS to grab a 5" scrap piece of pipe (told Josh that UDC should throw one in) to mount the brake lever. The point is, I have never had the opportunity to ride a 36er without the handlebar in place. That is until now. UPS damaged the Magura brake lines (on my new 36 guni) in transit. I shipped the brakes back to UDC (aren't they just the best) for repair. While I am waiting, I have removed the handlebar. It is liberating to be able to roll off a 5" curb knowing, if you UPD off the front, you aren't going to rack yourself or bash your knees on the handlebar. Also, and this is embarrassing to admit, but I had never even attempted to freemount a 36er. I had no problem static mounting my 24" unassisted but that darn handlebar had me scared of the rolling mount so I always just leaned on the the Jeep or a mailbox to mount. I am proud to say that my first freemounting session (I went 2 for 10) was a success. But, on that 11th attempt, I came off the back and landed on my feet but silly me tried to grab the seat (my general rule of thumb is to let the unicycle fall focusing on not getting hurt) but ended up cutting my index finger (lots of blood, no real harm) on the empty hole in the front of the Shadow base. Now I have put some handlebar wrap tape to plug the hole. It's not real pretty (see picture below) but it will not be cutting me anymore.

For the record, I hate riding without a handlebar. My left hand is always glued and it's just not the same gripping the (new and improved) saddle handle. But, I am making the best of it while it lasts. Planning on getting some more free-mounting practice tomorrow. I am also practicing shifting that Schlumpf hub and riding in high gear. Long story short, I am dropping it often. Nothing like seeing your new $3,500 unicycle banging off the pavement this way and that. Lucky for me, I had done the necessary aftermarket tinkering (lockwasher, blue medium loctite) to solidify the pivotal seat post's high tensile bolt. Everything seems to be holding up fine. We shall see.

[DavidHood]

Originally Posted by DavidHood

this is embarrassing to admit

Note to self. Don't drink and post. I'm still a little chafed over my decision to get a second (in addition to the one on my Impulse) Shadow kit for my 36" GUni instead of the T-bar $90 and $25 Reinforcement Plate for my Slim saddle. That still leaves me without a seatpost. Could this be my opportunity to blow another $50 to try a Thompson? The Shadow at $120 total is quite reasonable. Is there much of a weight difference (without back handle in place) in the two options? On a positive note, I finally got that second Shadow Base that (see two posts above) I always wanted. One goal of my recent purchase was to duplicate what I had in the Impulse. I've got to say, don't look down and you might forget which one you are riding. Until, you kick it in high gear.

[daveykim]

hey guys!
just got my impulse! Everything seems solid except the "teeth" portion of the handle doesnt seem locked enough? i can readily move my saddle up and down (a tiny bit) when i put pressure on it. is this the same issue everyone is having?

[aarons]

You'll want to take it apart and tighten it. It shouldn't move at all. And while you have the seat base off, you might as well try different seat angles. I found that tilting the front up two teeth was an improvement.

[steveyo]

Originally Posted by daveykim

hey guys!
just got my impulse! Everything seems solid except the "teeth" portion of the handle doesnt seem locked enough? i can readily move my saddle up and down (a tiny bit) when i put pressure on it. is this the same issue everyone is having?

From an earlier post in this thread, use loctite and tighten firmly.

[daveykim]

sounds good guys. yes the blue loctite + extra tightening helped. ive yet to try different seat angles but hopefully i will soon. Im still trying to figure out handle length and bar position. and im happy to say i freemounted a 36 on my first try. quite reminiscent of my nimbus 29 but still a very different experience!

[daveykim]

been riding my nimbus here and there. i would ride more but i've been sore nearly this whole winter break because of the snowboard season!

anyways, im not sure how i feel about the uncut bar length as of now but I will play with it a bit more. my lower back seems to be sore a bit. I am almost 5'11 with a 30inch leg length.

anyways my question is there enough strength on the shadow bar on the front and rear portion of the shadow bar to mount the a 36 nimbus nightrider onto a standard bike rack? (see diagram below)
and yes my paint skills are quite expert



i have this fantastic bike rack

Amazon.com: Allen 102S Premium 2-Bike Trunk Mount...
Amazon.com: Allen 102S Premium 2-Bike Trunk Mount...

[davidp]

Originally Posted by daveykim

anyways my question is there enough strength on the shadow bar on the front and rear portion of the shadow bar to mount the a 36 nimbus nightrider onto a standard bike rack?

That seems like taking the long way 'round. I've mounted my 36er on a standard rear-mounted rack several times simply by supporting the rim on one of the support arms and the frame/seatpost on the other support arm.