Post your broken Uni parts here..

[OUK]

Broken frame
Which one would you guys recommend me to get now?

[trepper687]

Originally Posted by johnfoss

The first generation of those seemed to have a weakness in that very area; possibly a manufacturing defect. Many people got free replacements when that happened, including me, so check with your seller, and they may make you whole pretty soon!

THanks for the advice. I emailed UDC and they said they'd give me a replacement, I just need to call.

[jaco_flans]

Originally Posted by OUK

Broken frame
Which one would you guys recommend me to get now?

Time for a Triton?

[Batteriknutte]

The Triton uses a weaker form of Titanium compared to the UDC/nimbus-titanium. I would chose the Nimbus, tho it's crown is a bit bigger than the KH. But not near as disturbing for your knees as the old style triton design.

[OUK]

Think I will go for the QX alu frame, since it's strong and it has a good crown (and I don't really care much about weight). I don't like the Nimbus crown, since it has a about 0,5 cm extension which destroys you knees
Maybe I should put 20 euros more into it and get an Impact..

Originally Posted by jaco_flans

Time for a Triton?

need a little bit of $ before i will be able to get that

[jaco_flans]

Originally Posted by Batteriknutte

The Triton uses a weaker form of Titanium compared to the UDC/nimbus-titanium. I would chose the Nimbus, tho it's crown is a bit bigger than the KH. But not near as disturbing for your knees as the old style triton design.

Even though it has weaker Titanium than the Nimbus Ti, it uses 27,2mm seatpost instead of 25,4mm and no one ever broke a Triton anyway. I haven't really seen anyone riding the Nimbus. My Triton is still in perfect shape (except for the scratches) and I ride it really hard

OUK: I'd throw 20 euros more and get an Impact frame

[OUK]

Originally Posted by jaco_flans

OUK: I'd throw 20 euros more and get an Impact frame

The only downside is the roundcrown.. I could get the flat crown, but the I'd preffer saving the 20 euros and buy a QX alu long neck..
But firstly I need to try to get it welded, I just need to find a place where they weld aluminium :P

[triton]

Originally Posted by Batteriknutte

The Triton uses a weaker form of Titanium compared to the UDC/nimbus-titanium. I would chose the Nimbus, tho it's crown is a bit bigger than the KH. But not near as disturbing for your knees as the old style triton design.

I really wonder what interesting details you know about nimbus and triton
tell us more about your knowledge...

[gazza]

Originally Posted by Batteriknutte

The Triton uses a weaker form of Titanium compared to the UDC/nimbus-titanium. I would chose the Nimbus, tho it's crown is a bit bigger than the KH. But not near as disturbing for your knees as the old style triton design.

Hi Batteriknutte,

My name is Dmitry and I run Triton frames' production.

Can you please specify how exactly you have defied "weaker" form of titanium used for Tritons compared to Nimbus titanium?
It's just interesting.

Nimbus do not publish the grade of titanium they use for their frames.
It can be either Ti 3AL-2.5V or 6AL-4V. These are two grades generally used for bicycle frames and you can get proper sized tubing only made of those grades.
3-2.5 is the most popular grade.
6-4 is more stiff titanium which may not bee to good when used on a unicycle. More likely to crack at the crown/seat tube junction.
Plus most 6-4 tubes are welded from sheets.
3-2.5 Ti is extruded as tubing.

Triton uses Russian standard OT4 titanium which is basically Ti 3AL-2.5V.
We have built hundreds of bicycle and unicycle frames since 2005.
From "calm" cross country frames to extreme trials and street trials. Frames used by experienced riders at the Russian and European comps and bashed like hell. They do hold really long.

Bike frames do crack sometimes.
Most cases (we have had less than 10) were trials frames after at least 1.5-2 years of riding. Which is very good compared to aluminum.
Couple of months ago we fixed (welded a stay) a trials frame that was made in 2007. Four years ago. We fixed it. Then the guy participated in the local Championship. The frame will hold another couple of years.

Triton frames are handmade in Russia. Some frames come in series and some are custom.

What do you know about Nimbus?
What's the grade?
I know where it's made - Asia.
It's not bad, it's the way every brand does it now. Because it's cheaper than to make it in your own country.

But that's the difference.

[Trevor Staader]

Originally Posted by OUK

Broken frame
Which one would you guys recommend me to get now?

Attachment 50813

Attachment 50814

Hi, I was just wondering how you broke it and how old the frame is?

[OUK]

Originally Posted by Trevor Staader

Hi, I was just wondering how you broke it and how old the frame is?

It's pretty old about 2 years, maybe even more, i think. I were trying to jump over a 75x25 cm concrete thing rolling, and the frame snapped half way over, so it was still rideable after. Then after a days of riding I did a SIF drop from my car and it snapped the whole way..

[Mountainuni1]

Thank you Dmitry! Well put, and certainly instills more confidence in your products when you provide that level of detail. And, being able to debunk a myth about Triton frames on a thread not even dedicated to discussing such a topic.

Signed,
Huge proponent & Distributor of Triton frames.

[MuniAddict]

One of my fusion FF saddles had a loose nut, causing it to spin when screwing on the lift handle bolt. After removing the saddle cover I tried to pull the foam off in one piece, but it was so totally "fused" to the base that became impossible without the foam tearing and breaking to pieces. I was determined to re-attach the loose base nut so I bit the bullet and pulled the foam off, destroying it in the process.

I could have tried to just lift the front of the foam up, but there was also another nut about to come loose in the center, where the seat post is attached. I figured no biggie since I had an old foam, intact, from an older FF saddle. Turned out that I had forgotten that the older foam was super soft and spongy, and not the "dual density" used in the newer FF saddles. So I called UDC to see if I could buy a few of the newer back up foams, as I had in the past.

I figured they were available, since UDC still makes the FF air saddle mods, which means they would have to remove the existing foam from the saddles to do the mod. They also said that sometimes the foams come off easily, other times not. But they told me that they didn't have any extras at all, which I found surprising. I didn't want to have to buy a WHOLE NEW FF saddle, when all I needed was a new foam piece, but apparently, I had no choice, so I ordered a brand NEW FF saddle.

I had been told several times that the NEW FF saddles would not have the "spinning bolt" problem, as all the new saddles had that issue addressed and fixed, by "welding" them into place. Well, after receiving the new FF saddle I began the process of switching the seatpost and KH t handle from the saddle I had fixed, to the NEW FF saddle.

Well, guess what? As I was finishing installing my KH t-handle bracket and lift handle, and having successfully--and very gingerly--screwed in the first three bolts, and thinking I was home free, as I started screwing in the FOURTH and final bolt into the base nut, and it was turning...and turning...and TURNING! The NUT on the NEW FF saddle became loose and was SPINNING with the bolt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was in pretty much in shock that this could/would happen AFTER I was told that the issue had been fixed by "welding" the base nuts in place! Needless to say, I am very disappointed. and there was no way I was going to attempt another "fix" of my own and risk destroying the foam in the attempt. I'm sending it back and hopefully I will get a a saddle that won't have this problem!

I don't know, but maybe they unwittingly sent me a saddle that had not had the base nuts "welded", or done properly. So frustrating!

[skilewis74]

Originally Posted by OUK

...But firstly I need to try to get it welded, I just need to find a place where they weld aluminium :P

skrobo had his welded at an auto shop. They also welded a small patch on the front and back of the frame covering the neck and part of the crown, I think he said it cost him $40. He posted picks of it but the search feature isn't working, so I can't find it right now.

[OUK]

Originally Posted by skilewis74

skrobo had his welded at an auto shop. They also welded a small patch on the front and back of the frame covering the neck and part of the crown, I think he said it cost him $40. He posted picks of it but the search feature isn't working, so I can't find it right now.

I will try at an autoshop And I think I'm gonna get it reinforced like Kevin Kartchners frame