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#31 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Longmont, Colorado
Age: 45
Posts: 1,286
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In truth, I can't believe how good that deal is from Coker.
If you were to build a similar wheel from parts and do the labor yourself that wheel would cost over $200 without shipping from UDC. It really is very little to pay for an upgrade that will certainly make the ride more enjoyable. Have you ridden the Coker yet? |
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#32 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Longmont, Colorado
Age: 42
Posts: 133
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I have tried it...I have rode down the street a ways. I am getting much better on my 26 and when I make that switch to the 36 it feels so very different. I am going to put 5" (127mm) pedals on my 26 to try and get the gear ratios closer so it will be easier to switch. I have to say I LOVE the feel of the Coker, it is so smooth and fast. With 6" pedals I feel like am barelly moving my feet and I am cruising!
You will have to try it and see what you think.
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Ride On... Vince |
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#33 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Longmont, Colorado
Age: 45
Posts: 1,286
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I have 125's on my 29'er, and they feel good, but are a little squirly going downhill. The 150's are a bit more confident, but noticeably slower. I wonder how the extra inertia from the 36" wheel plays into crank length.
I put a brake on my 29'er just so that I could have better control of the big wheel. I can imagine that it would be even more practical for a 36" wheel. Does your frame have a hole in the crown for a caliper brake? I had to drill mine. |
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#34 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Longmont, Colorado
Age: 42
Posts: 133
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I am running 152's on my Coker and I am going to run 127's on my 26".
I am going to have to drill a hole in my crown, does that mean your using road bike style brakes? I was going to rig up some Vbrakes that I chop off an old mountain bike. So your caliper brakes work fine?
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Ride On... Vince |
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#35 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Longmont, Colorado
Age: 45
Posts: 1,286
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I have V-Brakes on my 29'er, but I am thinking about changing them out for caliper's. I originally had a 26" wheel, and the only way i could put the brake on was to strap it on with a V-Brake adapter. I have since built a 29" wheel, and drilled my frame for the adapter, but the hole will work for calipers, which I think will be sufficient plus I think it will look a little more streamlined. I have plenty of calipers, and brake parts laying around, so it won't be a big deal to play around. It works pretty well as is, but it will be interesting to see the difference.
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#36 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Longmont, Colorado
Age: 42
Posts: 133
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Nice Uni...I will have to drill the hole in my coker frame and see how the caliper works on that. Since I am still learning I won't need to use a brake for a while but I can at least drill the hole.
__________________
Ride On... Vince |
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#37 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Longmont, Colorado
Age: 45
Posts: 1,286
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Come to think of it, I seem to remember some posts about people prefering caliper brakes on Cokers, and some disapointment with the Magura bosses on the Nightrider frames.
If you do a search for "coker brake" you'll get a lot of hits that go over the various oppinions, but from the sounds of it a sidepull caliper brake makes a lot of sense for a downhill drag brake. And the ability to set the pads wider is a nice solution to the frame/wheel flex that causes intermittent brake rubbing. |
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#38 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Longmont, Colorado
Age: 42
Posts: 133
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Yes that is the way I will go...just a side pull caliper, I have an old one at home already and I think I will try the friction shifter as the brake lever.
Now all I need to do build up my legs so I can ride for awhile.
__________________
Ride On... Vince |
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#39 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Longmont, Colorado
Age: 42
Posts: 133
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I took my older Coker a part last night so here are the weights....
Steel wheel set w/bearings 88oz or 2490.4g Coker Button tire 64oz or 1811.4g 36" tube 18oz or 509.4g 152mm steel cranks 24oz or 679.2g plastic pedals 10oz or 283g total 204oz or 5773.2grams or 12.75 lbs 700mm tube 5.2oz or 147.2g Coker new wheel set $118 41.3oz or 1170g Weight difference with new wheel set and 700 tube is 59.4oz or 1682.2g Weight difference with new wheel set and 36" tube is 46oz or 1320.2g I was most surprised at the weight of the button tire...it is almost as heavy as the steel wheel set and heavier than the new Alum wheel set?? ![]() And the button tire is supposed to be the lightest 36" tire? So do I spend $124 for a weight savings of 46oz or just lose that weight in my belly? That is the question.
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Ride On... Vince Last edited by vinnya42; 2009-04-03 at 03:26 PM. |
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#40 |
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ERIC P
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Going from a 36" tube to a 700C tube was a noticeable difference. Loosing over a kilo and an half would be a massive improvement.
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#41 | |
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Mainly XC Muni
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Dartmoor, England
Age: 44
Posts: 2,876
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Quote:
![]() Seriously, when I upgraded my wheel it made a very noticeable difference to the ride. Well worth it in my opinion. Yes, the 36" tyres are ridiculously heavy. A lighter one would be nice, but on the other hand the current ones are pretty much bullet proof - never have to worry about punctures. Rob |
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#42 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Longmont, Colorado
Age: 42
Posts: 133
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Thanks Sask, so the rolling weight really makes a difference?
I only want it to improve manuverability and the make it easier for the long hills here in Colorado. So is there a secret to putting on a 700 tube, I tried last night and blew it out. I really tried to keep it from twisting but it twisted anyway then blew. I reset it twice and still blew the tube. Any hints to help would be great.
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Ride On... Vince |
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#43 |
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Mainly XC Muni
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Dartmoor, England
Age: 44
Posts: 2,876
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Fitting a 29er tube in a 36 is much easier if you stretch it first. Pump the tube up (outside the tyre) bigger than normal and leave it overnight to stretch, then let it down and fit it like any other tube. You have to be a bit more careful than normal to avoid pinching it under the tyre bead as you're fitting the tyre. You probably already know if you've fitted bike tyres, but just in case: rub some talcum or chalk powder on the tube to stop it sticking to the tyre, and put a small bit of air (only a tiny bit) inside the tube while fitting to help avoid pinching.
Rob EDIT: And get the fattest 29er tube you can find (700x50c or something) The Schwalbe ones are popular. Last edited by rob.northcott; 2009-04-03 at 04:26 PM. |
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#44 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Longmont, Colorado
Age: 42
Posts: 133
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I just ordered my new wheel set from Coker with some 125mm alum cranks for $150 shipped! Very stoked... so my total for the old coker and new wheel set is $325...pretty good price for a Coker.
I will have to report on the difference between the steel and new Alum wheel.
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Ride On... Vince |
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#45 | |
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Sir Prince of Newsgroupia
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Zoetermeer, Netherlands
Age: 59
Posts: 2,303
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Quote:
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