KH moment '07 crank pedal inserts

[delcypher]

Hi I've had the KH moment cranks for a few days now and I swap between metal pedals and plastic ones quite often (plastic ones for uni spins and stuff) and the pedal insert in the left crank arm are starting to move.

There are four pin holes, two drilled either side of the insert which I believe is probably for a two pin tool like the one I have at work.

I'm guessing that each side is some kind of lock ring, but does anyone know in which direction to tighten the pedal insert? (hold one side still, whilst tightening the other? Turn them in opposing directions?)

If I ever was to damage the insert for the KH moment cranks where would I get a spare insert from?

[timbob1907]

Not sure how you would get a new one so i would stop switching pedals. Stick with the ones you like more.

[delcypher]

I can't really do that, I need the metal pedals for when it's wet and when I'm doing trials, but for practicing flatland stuff and anything new I prefer to use plastic.

The crank arms are designed with pedal inserts for a good reason so I just want to know how I'm supposed to tighten them.

[Uniman_3]

http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/sho...s+pedal+insert


the same thing happend to my friends crank, yeah timbob is right..u shuld proly quit switching pedals soo much.
my dad asked kris holm about it and he said that maybe 1 in 100 do this...
just make sure that when you tighten the pedal you dont over tighten it because that will make everything tighter and quite possibly help make the pedal insert come out..
i dont think anyone makes a tool for this yet because of not much it happens..

[delcypher]

well thanks for the replies, but I'm going to bring it into work tomorrow and take out the insert and see If i can figure out how it fixes in properly.

F.Y.I. Uniman_3 we've got a tool in work that will probably fit it.(http://www.parktool.com/products/det...5&item=SPA%2D6)

It's the same tool you can use for fitting self extracting crank bolts.

[Uniman_3]

yeah one of those would probably work though..
good luck on it..tell us how it goes..

[skrobo]

Originally Posted by Uniman_3

yeah one of those would probably work though..
good luck on it..tell us how it goes..

i don't think so.
no, the holes on the crank inserts are MUCH smaller than that.

[henkka]

Originally Posted by timbob1907

stop switching pedals

I think KHE Stimulatorz could work. Those are grippy, durable and plastic.

[UAC]

Originally Posted by delcypher

Hi I've had the KH moment cranks for a few days now and I swap between metal pedals and plastic ones quite often (plastic ones for uni spins and stuff) and the pedal insert in the left crank arm are starting to move.

There are four pin holes, two drilled either side of the insert which I believe is probably for a two pin tool like the one I have at work.

I'm guessing that each side is some kind of lock ring, but does anyone know in which direction to tighten the pedal insert? (hold one side still, whilst tightening the other? Turn them in opposing directions?)

If I ever was to damage the insert for the KH moment cranks where would I get a spare insert from?

delcypher,

I had the same problem as you on my KH20. Normally I install the pedals with Loctite 243 (to prevent unscrewing while riding backwards) and don't change them until I really feel the need to. So, when I went from Snafu (original pedals) to Odyssey Jim C, I observed the pedal insert was moving while I was uninstalling the former pedals; however they rotated in the crank only about 90 degrees and became steady again. I knew this was no good for future abuse of the cranks so I had to re-install the cranks as you may (should?) also do.

From an old open 15mm wrench I made (much filing and carving was needed) a pin tool to fit the insert holes. The same as you, I did not know the thread direction of the insert or its locknut but guessed it somehow after attentive inspection and found the following (you can trust this):
- the inserts (on the outer side) have the same thread direction as their corresponding pedals (right crank - clockwise, left crank - inverse)
- the locknuts (on the inner side) have reverse threads compared to the corresponding pedal (right crank - anticlockwise, left crank - normal)


I believe the ParkTool pin thing should be fine...however the locknuts may be hard to reach with this tool as they are below the surface...you'll see

Finally, I recommend you to get the inserts out completely, clean everything with some good solvent (diluent) and install all again with plenty of thread locking adhesive (Loctite)...and yeah, leave over night before you put the pedals...

That's what I did and now the cranks are like new

Flaviu

[delcypher]

Thank you for an excellent reply. After inspection of my crank arms, the thread directs indicated should be correct, if the design is actually good.

The insert would be screwed in on the outer side of the crank arm (the side with Kris Holm written on it). This insert tightens when the pedal axle is tightened so logically the thread is for the insert is tapped the same way.

To stop the insert from undoing as the pedal axle is loosened a lock nut is on the inner side of the crank arm (the side that faces into the wheel when it's fitted).

A good design would have it so as the pedal insert insert tries to undo the locknut actually tightens preventing the insert from doing. So if you were looking down on the inner side of the crank arm, the thread for the locknut would be the opposite of the pedal insert's thread direction.

I've tried using the parktool pin tool, but the pins aren't quite long enough to reach the inner side of the crank arm as it is recessed.

I can't get the insert out without undoing the locknut first so I'm going to try using some circlip pliers tomorrow and see if they work better. I did also try a screwdriver and hammer approach, but the locknut is far too tight.

[Dosestrallas12]

my brother used to have problem with his koxx crank, with that steel insert.

we just take it apart from the crank and put red loctite on. Then we tighten it all in crank and leave it dry for 24 hours. It worked for us, but maybe other techniq work.

[UAC]

Hey,

Indeed, the thread direction of the insert (which holds the pedal) is the same as that of corresponding pedal for the obvious reason of tightening while forward riding...however when I was about to remove to inserts, my main question was: what's the thread direction of the lock-nut...

I tended to believe it is the same as on the insert. My imaginary model of the insert was similar to a cylinder with one thread on the outer side (in contact with the crank) and one on the inner side (in contact with the pedal), both threads having the same direction (as the pedal). I addition to this I was told by a friend who works in a bike shop of a similar thinking...but

Looking closer to the inserts and the lock-nuts one can see some small indent marks left by the pin-wrench tool that was used in the factory for tightening. So, I was able to guess (contrary to what I though before...) the real direction of the lock-nut thread - it is reverse threaded compared to the corresponding pedal...and yeah, the insert has 2 thread tappings on its outer side (one for connection to the crank arm and another, smaller and reverse, for the lock-nut!!!

You still have to fit the pin-tool carefully in the holes and prepare to apply a good amount of force as the thing was tightened hard in the factory and has some sort of red Loctite (?) too...

Get all parts out, clean everything very good (including the crank arm mother thread), put lots of Loctite (I used 243, medium strength, as don't have anything else...), re-install (tighten hard the inserts and moderate the lock-nuts), leave overnight and then install pedals...

Note: To be able to verify easier if the inserts are steady now, I drawn a line over the insert lock-nut and the crank arm (like a longer diameter line, on the inner side of the crank arm). In this way you can see if the insert is holding well or not. mine are perfect now!

Hope this helps,
Flaviu

[manicpanicmuni]

ya cheers everyone, this topic helped me too. i had problems with my k1 cranks.