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Old 2017-04-19, 06:01 AM   #691
lightbulbjim
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Testing fit and alignment.
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Old 2017-04-20, 03:03 AM   #692
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Grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't. So long, dBrake!
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Old 2017-04-20, 02:45 PM   #693
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Nice job!!
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Old 2017-04-20, 04:41 PM   #694
chainreactionphysics
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I need to learn to weld!

Is brazing easier to start with? And cheaper?

I could add a brake to my nimbus 11 frame..
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Old 2017-04-21, 11:07 AM   #695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chainreactionphysics View Post
I need to learn to weld!

Is brazing easier to start with? And cheaper?

I could add a brake to my nimbus 11 frame..
Stick welding is the cheapest, but less versatile than other processes. I did that brake mount with an old stick welder, because it's what I had available, but it's not really the best option for welding thin-walled tubing like using in bicycle and unicycle frames.

Lugged brazing can be very strong. This is how a lot of older bike frames were built. The lug is basically a socket that the tubing fits into, and then the brazing filler metal gets sucked into the very small gap between the tube and the lug via capillary action. Very strong but requires lugs and so not really suitable for hacking. Example:


Lugless brazing is also done sometimes. In this case the filler metal forms a fillet similar to a weld bead. The base metal is still not molten. You need a very tight fitup for a strong joint, and I understand there is some science to the fillet radius in terms of managing strength. Not as strong as welding at first glance, but there is less heat going into the base metal so it can be stronger sometimes. Example:


Fillet brazing can be done with a TIG welder, but usually it's done with a gas torch. With an oxy/acetylene rig you can heat, cut, weld, braze (both fillet and traditional) and silver solder. It's very versatile and a lot cheaper than a TIG setup with all the bells and whistles. TIG can be cheap if you have a more basic setup (scratch start or lift arc), but once you want to use a foot pedal, use AC with high frequency start (for welding aluminium) and have good adjustability it can get pricey.
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Old 2017-06-02, 09:36 PM   #696
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My "new" $40 Craigslister!
This was a one-off, aluminum 29er built by local shop with Alex rim. I replaced the bearings, then added handle bar, Schwalbe Big One, and rattle-can finish. Now it's a fast, light road machine.
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Old 2017-06-03, 01:30 AM   #697
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Sweet! Really nice work there. You'll have some fun on that.
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Old 2017-06-06, 01:19 PM   #698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newob View Post
My "new" $40 Craigslister!
This was a one-off, aluminum 29er built by local shop with Alex rim. I replaced the bearings, then added handle bar, Schwalbe Big One, and rattle-can finish. Now it's a fast, light road machine.
That looks very nice and fast!
I've almost finished my 27.5er. Won an old Nimbus castle top 29 frame off ebay for £10.49 so got to work, Nimbus steel disc hub, KH freeride rim, Maxxis Aggressor 2.3 tyre, Nimbus alu post, seat clamp and Stadium seat and KH plastic pedals on 125/150 moment cranks.
Can't wait to get a ride on it!

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Old 2017-07-02, 04:09 AM   #699
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Carbon Seat!

Recently made a carbon seatbase compatible with regular KH hardware.

Seeing how almost everybody with the NNC flatfish uses the heavy KH adjustable seatpost and no one angles it down, I made the adjustment angle higher (to a maximum pictured), and a minimum of flat (as opposed to down).

The layup is 5 layers of 200gsm 3k, with reinforcements where I expect will have more stress. The final weight of this trimmed seatbase (before drilling and installing the nuts) is slightly under 115g.

Which brings me to wonder, what was the weight of the NNC, and with the existance of the flat KH bases, is anyone still interested in buying these things?
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Old 2017-07-02, 08:31 AM   #700
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HI Wenn,

great job. This base looks great !

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wennn View Post
Which brings me to wonder, what was the weight of the NNC, and with the existance of the flat KH bases, is anyone still interested in buying these things?
I cannot comment on the NNC weight as I never had one.

However, I can say that you will find people interested in buying some if you plan on making them available for purchase. Keep in mind that the few carbon base available seems to be from either private handmade runs or limited test runs.

Depending on the price, I can be part of the people liming up for one
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Old 2017-07-02, 11:28 AM   #701
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Hi Wenn,
Nice job on that seat base. I've often thought that saddle design in unicycling could learn a lot from bikes. Currently we try to attain comfort almost purely in the padding. The biking industry knows that you actually don't need much padding at all if the shape is right. I would love to one day see a uni saddle that has the relief channel built into the CF seat base itself, instead of purely in the foam that is slapped on top of it. This channel would also help strengthen the seat base too. You could then use much thinner profile foam, only on the top and sides.

Good work,
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Old 2017-07-02, 01:35 PM   #702
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Yes, I come from a bicycling background too, and although i do not care too much about weight there, I simply cannot accept how heavy things are in the unicycling world. For reference, my saddle is a Dash Strike weighing something like 95g including the saddle rails. No offence to Roger or Kris Holm it you happen to read this, I understand why things are this way, and I probably will not be unicycling if saddles cost as much as bike saddles or broke on the tenth drop!

I do understand the want for the perfect saddle shape, and am working towards that too. This is an integrated saddle i previously worked on, its length is as long as a KH saddle with a Muni bar, ridiculously stiff but at a more reasonable weight. Sadly, the front grab handle was not too comfortable and I could not think of a better way or attaching the rear bumper so I am reverting to mounting the plastic handles.

Edit: Mark, I believe unicycle seats need a certain depth of padding for optimal performance. I actually did ride this pictured seat for 15km without padding (and simple thin unpadded shorts) and while it was not especially uncomfortable, it required full hands-on riding as any little bump would throw me otf the surface of the seat and allow it to shift behind me. Perhaps it would be ideal to have a perfectly shaped carbon base then a deep (1.5cm?) layer of soft foam to keep our butts planted on the saddle when not holding the handlebar
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Old 2017-07-02, 04:50 PM   #703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wennn View Post
[I]s anyone still interested in buying these things?
I might be.
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Old 2017-07-02, 07:14 PM   #704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wennn View Post
is anyone still interested in buying these things?
Count me in. I think you'll find a few. There was a post on Urban Unicycle Chat facebook page with 30+ replies from interested people.

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Old 2017-07-03, 01:10 AM   #705
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Okay, I will be away for the next three days, after which i will start on a new mould and start a batch of perhaps five seats. Nuts will be bonded in and for now will follow the KH drilling.

The cost will probably be higher than the NNC as the seat is made largely out of Unidirectional instead of 3k fiber for a lighter end product.
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