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Old 2019-07-24, 10:31 PM   #16
GizmoDuck
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That's a polished stainless steel KVA MS3 tubeset, no chrome at all.

http://www.kvastainless.com/tubing-info.html

Stronger than 6Al/4V Titanium, if you believe the marketing

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Old 2019-07-25, 04:27 AM   #17
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2 lbs difference(Oracle 26" AL vs. Nimbus 26" Steel)

Hey that's a big difference. If not for the extra 200-300$. I would definitely get the aluminum. I remember when I first upgraded from my 20" to my 24", I quickly realized that I had to be more "physical" with my upper body movement. That's the weight and inertia.

So, now two unicycles of equal size but 2 lbs lighter. I just tried it out. Yes, I can feel the difference. I'm not riding fast/cliff dropping, stiffness is a non-factor, but all around riding on smooth, rocks, hopping? So, responsive. No contest. Give me aluminum.
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Old 2019-07-25, 04:32 PM   #18
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I doubt there is a 2lb difference (I know one says 15 lb and the other 17 in the description), but they have identical parts except for the frames, and the difference in the frames is less than one pound.

For me it wouldn't be worth it.

My friends all ride carbon bikes and have been wondering when I'll upgrade my old steel bike. I finally did and basically it was a huge waste of money, I love my steel bike, it's so smooth and quiet, yeah it's not as fast as the new carbon bike, but most of my riding is solo so who cares? There are plenty of people who will only ride a carbon bike and love the feel, but it is a personal preference.

I know that comparing bikes isn't the same as unicycles, but I do feel it applies somewhat. The type of riding will also dictate the stiffness required, just riding along a dirt path it probably doesn't matter much. Dropping, hopping, more agro riding it will make a bigger difference.
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Old 2019-07-26, 07:54 PM   #19
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I know that comparing bikes isn't the same as unicycles, but I do feel it applies somewhat. The type of riding will also dictate the stiffness required, just riding along a dirt path it probably doesn't matter much. Dropping, hopping, more agro riding it will make a bigger difference.
I pretty much only ride roads and gravel tracks, and still love the feel of my ali uni frame with carbon wheel. The stiffness lets me really slam the power up hills and spin up to speed quickly in high gear! I upgraded from an old steel bike to a new aluminium frame/carbon fork bike and really noticed a difference in power transfer as well. I'm willing to bet this has as much to do with modern frame/geometry design as it does material though (That is to say, they can probably create a steel frame with a modern geometry and shape that feels as stiff and responsive as my ali/carbon bike).

If anything I prefer my steel unis for rougher riding as it gives a bit of suspension
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Old 2019-08-01, 01:27 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by GizmoDuck View Post
polished stainless steel ... no chrome at all.
I actually kept that option open, which is why I started my reply with "I think I see".
That's pretty awesome: old technique with new materials.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GizmoDuck View Post
... KVA MS3 tubeset / marketing ...
I noticed some (bicycle) framebuilders using that as sellingpoint, but didn't expect it to be so widely used already. And used for unicycles!
Any know disadvantages yet?
What is it price-wise like?
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Old 2019-08-09, 02:26 AM   #21
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A couple years ago I weighed a few of the common Alu and Steel frames available then (see post linked below) - probably not too much has changed weight-wise. I also had a few thoughts on the differences - also still relevant I think.

http://unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120064
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Old 2019-08-09, 11:01 AM   #22
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The stresses that go through a bike frame are very different. As a longer and more elaborate structure, often ridden hard in gears equivalent to a unicycle wheel of 80 inches or more, a bike frame needs to resist twisting.

A bike frame made of aluminium will tend to need larger diameter tubes in order to resist this twisting.

On a unicycle, a good quality aluminium frame such as a KH is more than adequate.

Remember, it is not just the material used, but other things such as the thickness of the walls of the tubes, the profile (cross section) of the tubes, and the quality of the build.

My old Coker was steel framed and flexed horribly because it was thin round-section steel tube. My KH36 is aluminium/alloy and I seldom notice any flex.

KH kit is good. Some people may think that other brands are better, or not, but the point is not whether KH is "best" but that KH is "very good". If KH uses aluminium, it is because it is better than steel for that purpose.
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Old 2019-08-09, 11:48 PM   #23
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The stresses that go through a bike frame are very different. As a longer and more elaborate structure, often ridden hard in gears equivalent to a unicycle wheel of 80 inches or more, a bike frame needs to resist twisting.
A bike frame does gain rigidity by virtue of being more "3D" though (3D in scare quotes because it's primarily in one plane).

This is slightly tangential, but the handlebar setup on my 36er puts a lot of torque on the seatpost and seatpost/handlebar interface. And the handlebar itself is only 22.2mm in diameter and floating out in the breeze, unsupported.

I recently replaced my Shadow base with the new beefed up version after breaking the old one. Now that the base is more heavily reinforced I wonder where the next weak link is. Probably the handlebar itself. There is already some paint mysteriously missing from the bar about 10mm forward of the adjustment clamp, which is where the bending forces would be concentrated. I expect I'll see a fatigue failure there at some point.

Probably the real answer for handlebar users is a V frame, at the expense of weight and adjustability.
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Old 2019-08-11, 07:00 PM   #24
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V-frames need to have fewer legs.
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Old 2019-08-11, 07:41 PM   #25
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If you want rigidity and long reach handlebars (which is thread drift...) then something combining the principles of the Moulton "spaceframe" coupled with some features of the Hatchet (to keep the frame away from the knees) might be a solution.

To me, the solution is riding within the limits of a simple unicycle, sometimes with a short bar, sometimes without. It is the simplicity of the unicycle that appeals to me: a few simple variables (wheel diameter, crank length, tyre section, overall quality of build) and everything else is down to me as the rider.

Here's a picture of a Moulton spaceframe, for younger readers to admire.
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Old 2019-09-06, 01:38 AM   #26
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I've been riding a Nimbus 29" road with an aluminum Oracle frame. I recently swapped and put the original steel Nimbus frame on it. Its about a pound heavier with the steel frame. Riding it - I can't tell the difference. The only time I can tell the difference is when I'm lifting it out of the garage.
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