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Old 2019-03-11, 08:37 AM   #31
pierrox
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Is it because it has mountain bike pedals with metal pins? During the learning phase, it's recommended to have regular pedals without the crazy grips that mountain bike pedals have.
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Old 2019-03-11, 10:17 AM   #32
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... and I just ruined my first pair of sneakers. Both shoes at the same time. At least I'm symmetrical
It looks like this is going to require a budget of its own.
I use all my budget on new unis
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Old 2019-03-11, 10:55 AM   #33
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Is it because it has mountain bike pedals with metal pins? During the learning phase, it's recommended to have regular pedals without the crazy grips that mountain bike pedals have.
They have little studs so it's grippy, but not crazy grippy. I can still swivel my foot a little if I don't put too much weight on it.

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I use all my budget on new unis
So no shoes? That is sooo hardcore!
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Old 2019-03-11, 01:00 PM   #34
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So no shoes? That is sooo hardcore!
The shoes I had when I started riding were already 6 years old and then I used them another 3 years when uni-ing. The soles of my current shoes are a bit too hard and sometimes when I want to ride after work, I noticed I forgot my uni-shoes, so just ride with the shoes I have. Some are more grippy than others and I prefer to have grippy ones. So far I haven't had nasty falls, but then I'm really careful and easily chicken out ^_^

Btw riding on ur socks or barefoot while having pinned pedals is no fun. I tried that.
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Old 2019-03-12, 03:35 AM   #35
elpuebloUNIdo
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Every now and then I'd have 3 or 4 pedal strokes in a row without touching the rail but it felt mostly random.
It's hard to learn to idle while while idling back and forth in a perpendicular fashion. You have to pivot wildly when learning to idle. This can be hard to do while holding onto a support or being next to one. When I practiced with a support, I would eventually tip over to the left or right, because I wasn't allowing myself to pivot.

There are some interesting threads about learning to idle on this forum. What you're doing now, Garp, is going to help with idling. Using different approaches also will help. Sometimes certain skills have to be learned before we're ready for others. For example, here's a progression of skills that might lead you toward idling:

1. Learn to ride without falling off
2. Improve to the point of being able to ride more slowly
3. Come to a brief, full stop while riding. Pedal out of it.
4. Add a backwards half-revolution to the full stop.
5. Add more than one backward-forward cycle to the above
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Old 2019-03-12, 10:30 AM   #36
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Actually, idling is not my main focus. I wanted to be able to free mount consistently as quickly as possible but I didn't feel like spending 90 min every night doing just that. I needed something to mix it up with and from my noob's perspective idling made more sense than other beginner's skills.
As soon as I can mount well enough I'll put idling aside and work or my steering. Plenty of room for improvement there.
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Old 2019-03-12, 11:14 AM   #37
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Actually, idling is not my main focus. I wanted to be able to free mount consistently as quickly as possible but I didn't feel like spending 90 min every night doing just that. I needed something to mix it up with and from my noob's perspective idling made more sense than other beginner's skills.
As soon as I can mount well enough I'll put idling aside and work or my steering. Plenty of room for improvement there.
Good call. Whenever someone asks me how to freemount, I say: try 5 freemounts every time you want to mount, if it doesnt work, mount with support. There is nothing more boring than repeatedly falling without even riding.

Whenever I teach a group of beginners, I usually recommend practicing slaloms as the first thing after they learn to ride, and have them learn freemounting at the same time. Slaloms teach you a lot, and can easily be adjusted to stay difficult by making the gaps smaller. The IUF obstacle course can be a good inspiration for more advanced "slaloms", even if you don't plan on competing.
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Old 2019-03-12, 11:15 AM   #38
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Actually, idling is not my main focus. I wanted to be able to free mount consistently as quickly as possible but I didn't feel like spending 90 min every night doing just that. I needed something to mix it up with and from my noob's perspective idling made more sense than other beginner's skills.
As soon as I can mount well enough I'll put idling aside and work or my steering. Plenty of room for improvement there.
Consistently free-mounting only comes with time. I think I spent a week or so practising on free-mounting within 5 tries, before taking the uni to the forest to ride there. You will also notice that once you learn to free-mount on ur current uni, as soon as you get a larger wheel or shorter cranks, it will become more difficult again.
Idling I still can't do, but haven't had any situations where I which I could. riding backwards I might still learn at some point, though the thought of rolling half a cycle backwards after coming to a stop, I find very scary. When I stop, I start hopping. I think learning to hop is more useful than learning how to idle. Sometimes when I take a wrong path, I hop, turn around and ride back to where I wanted to go.
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Old 2019-03-12, 08:19 PM   #39
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Good call. Whenever someone asks me how to freemount, I say: try 5 freemounts every time you want to mount, if it doesnt work, mount with support. There is nothing more boring than repeatedly falling without even riding.
You can also try to master several types of free-mounting. I alternated between learning the roll back mount and the static mount. Roll back clicked in first, and it's still my favorite.
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Old 2019-03-13, 12:06 AM   #40
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You can also try to master several types of free-mounting.
Maybe not right now. As I said, I don't want to spend all my practice session free-mounting. It would get very boring very fast.
But I will learn more mounts, later. Jump-mounting (on a 20") looks fun. And useful.

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Consistently free-mounting only comes with time. (...)
I think learning to hop is more useful than learning how to idle.
That seems to be the case for every uni-related thing. Time. A lot of it.
Hopping is something I want to start doing as soon as I can free-mount. It looks like the most efficient way to readjust your balance. And it's a prerequisite for so many tricks anyway.

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I say: try 5 freemounts every time you want to mount, if it doesnt work, mount with support. (...)
I usually recommend practicing slaloms as the first thing after they learn to ride.
I can already free-mount successfully a quarter or third of the time. So support no longer needed
For direction control I have an approach in mind that has served me well in other contexts. I'm not quite there yet but it's coming.
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Old 2019-03-13, 04:10 PM   #41
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I alternated between learning the roll back mount and the static mount. Roll back clicked in first, and it's still my favorite.
Beware: I started this way and it took me an awful amount of time to get rid of the roll-back. So when I teach newbies I avoid to show them the rollback mount (which is ok on flat ground but could be a problem in some Muni situations).
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Old 2019-03-13, 08:54 PM   #42
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Beware: I started this way and it took me an awful amount of time to get rid of the roll-back. So when I teach newbies I avoid to show them the rollback mount (which is ok on flat ground but could be a problem in some Muni situations).
I was told once: Rollback is a circus mount! It's good to have several options though. I like the roll-back when I need to mount facing the hill, it's way easier than the static mount. Which is much easier to do when pointing downhill.
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Old 2019-03-14, 05:38 AM   #43
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This is taking for ever
Upping practice time to two hours.
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Old 2019-03-14, 10:36 AM   #44
Setonix
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I was told once: Rollback is a circus mount! It's good to have several options though. I like the roll-back when I need to mount facing the hill, it's way easier than the static mount. Which is much easier to do when pointing downhill.
After some threads on here about hill mounting, I focused on static mounting perpendicular to the road and instead of riding off, hop 90º towards the uphill. Don't you have with the rollback mount, that you will need additional force to stop the wheel from rolling further down? Btw how do you keep the pedals with a rollback mount and at what point do you roll forward? (of course I could check youtube, but it is easier if you tell )
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Old 2019-03-14, 08:37 PM   #45
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The thing about rollback uphill is you don't have to put a lot of pressure on the pedal to make the wheel roll under you. Then I slow it down with the second foot, and block it once the pedals are at 9-3. Then I can just go forward with a good control. I should make a video, I've never seen one uphill. Again, I don't do that on crazy uphills - in that case I do sideways like you described.

Last edited by pierrox; 2019-03-14 at 08:38 PM.
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