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Old 2010-06-12, 10:51 PM   #16
unidreamer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by siafirede View Post
Speaking of which, is there anything else of interest in the latest directions that is not in the first set of directions that went out when the hub was first released? I didn't get a new setup guide or a new set of instructions with the returned hub.
FWIW, I stripped my hollow allen-head crank bolts at less than the recommend torque of 40ft-lbs stated in the insruction handbook. I was using a torgue wrench, going slow and had everything well greased.

I think 40 ft-lbs is definitely the upper end.

Thankfully, Florian has sent another set, but I'm out of commission on my geared 29er until they arrive.
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Old 2010-06-13, 03:52 AM   #17
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The bolts are by far the worst part of the kh/schlumpf hub, I start to round them out after several series of tightening, doesn't matter if it is a torque wrench or hex adapter for a socket wrench, the bolts just have a tendency to deform.

I ordered a bunch a year ago, and I am on my 3rd set of bolts since owning the hub (which I guess I have had for...over 2 years now).
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Old 2010-06-14, 12:41 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by siafirede View Post
The bolts are by far the worst part of the kh/schlumpf hub, I start to round them out after several series of tightening, doesn't matter if it is a torque wrench or hex adapter for a socket wrench, the bolts just have a tendency to deform.

I ordered a bunch a year ago, and I am on my 3rd set of bolts since owning the hub (which I guess I have had for...over 2 years now).
Any source besides Florian? Seems prudent to stock up on a few
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Old 2010-06-14, 12:45 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by unidreamer View Post
Any source besides Florian? Seems prudent to stock up on a few
As far as I know Florian is the only source, I am going to order a few more myself.
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Old 2010-06-14, 02:33 AM   #20
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Any insights why the bolts are stripping / giving in prematurely? Would it have to do with them being hollow? Would the recommended torque of 40 ft.lbs be too high? Would the bolts be of low quality - perhaps on purpose because Florian has to drill them?
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Old 2010-06-14, 04:49 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by siafirede View Post
As far as I know Florian is the only source, I am going to order a few more myself.
UDC NZ has some!

http://www.unicycle.co.nz/shop/unicy...pf-Crank-Bolts

http://www.unicycle.co.nz/shop/unicy...hifting-Button
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Old 2010-06-14, 08:33 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by steveyo View Post
I mean when I'm holding the frame and wheel still the wheel has a bit of jiggle, side-to-side.
Steve, I have the same thing. I think I can see/feel the play happening in the large bearing (the one that was changed for a larger size in the recent redesign) on the side of the hub body. My rim knocks from side to side a couple of mm when holding the frame still.

Corbin - I think you said you had had the same thing, and saw mine do it at UNICON. I don't remember if you got it fixed or worried about it? Roger thinks it may be a tolerance issue with the bearing size and could be fixed with a very fine shim, but that would require disassembling the hub.

Practically though, this may have been happening for most of the time I have had it and I've ridden this hub for a good 3000km. I'm not expecting it to fail suddenly on this.

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Old 2010-06-14, 03:20 PM   #23
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40 ft-lbs is too high. I use 30 with blue locktight. Occasionally I'll have to retighten them, but not very frequently.

Quote:
Originally Posted by redwelly View Post
Steve, I have the same thing. I think I can see/feel the play happening in the large bearing (the one that was changed for a larger size in the recent redesign) on the side of the hub body. My rim knocks from side to side a couple of mm when holding the frame still.

Corbin - I think you said you had had the same thing, and saw mine do it at UNICON. I don't remember if you got it fixed or worried about it? Roger thinks it may be a tolerance issue with the bearing size and could be fixed with a very fine shim, but that would require disassembling the hub.

Practically though, this may have been happening for most of the time I have had it and I've ridden this hub for a good 3000km. I'm not expecting it to fail suddenly on this.

Sam
Yeah, my KH36 with the older style hub has this problem too; the wheel knocks side to side. I think it is the bearings that have the slop in them that cause it. I'll take a closer look and make sure it isn't the bearing moving in the housing -- that could be shimmed.

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Old 2010-06-14, 03:22 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by siafirede View Post
The bolts are by far the worst part of the kh/schlumpf hub, I start to round them out after several series of tightening, doesn't matter if it is a torque wrench or hex adapter for a socket wrench, the bolts just have a tendency to deform.

I ordered a bunch a year ago, and I am on my 3rd set of bolts since owning the hub (which I guess I have had for...over 2 years now).
That's really weird -- are you sure you are pushing the shaft in before you tightening the bolt? Not doing that can easily cause one to strip the end.

I haven't stripped any of my bolts, and we have three hubs.

-corbin
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Old 2010-06-14, 03:58 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corbin View Post
40 ft-lbs is too high. I use 30 with blue locktight. Occasionally I'll have to retighten them, but not very frequently.



Yeah, my KH36 with the older style hub has this problem too; the wheel knocks side to side. I think it is the bearings that have the slop in them that cause it. I'll take a closer look and make sure it isn't the bearing moving in the housing -- that could be shimmed.

corbin
When you use locktite, you should not retight the bolts. You basically break the glued connection between the axle and the crank when you do that. I never touched my bolts since the cranks were mounted 800 km ago.

Also, when the wheel has play in the large bearings, they may have the old known problem although you don't see it. The bearing has an outer and an inner plastic cap, to protect it from dirt. When I had the problem, the outer plastic ring popped out and I could see the balls and the destroyed bearing cage (or what was left over from it).

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But if the black ring is still in place, the cage may be destroyed anyway with the result that the balls float around in a lose order, causing the play of the wheel as they may all be on just one side. It is possible to pop out the black ring manually, very carfully, and not fully, to have a look behind it. But of course on your own risk. But I think it is the only method to get a clear answer whether the bearing is OK or not.

I also did that on my new generation replacement hub, just to confirm that it was OK. I did that with a strong needle. As I said: VERY carefuly.
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Last edited by hugo; 2010-06-14 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 2010-06-14, 04:21 PM   #26
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Hey,

I also agree that about 40 Nm (30 ft lbs) seems about right for tightening the axle bolts. Definitely it is highly recommended to use a proper torque wrench and not just wing it unless you have to (e.g. mid ride).

My personal preference (in general for maintenance, not just with this hub) is not to use loctite but rather to inspect regularly. However, without loctite the axle does come slowly looser and should be checked regularly. I usually check after a hard all-day ride or after every few more moderate rides. If you'd rather not check frequently, then loctite is recommended.

It would be ideal if the hex size could be larger and it's something we are brainstorming about. It is difficult to do though, given that an M12 standard is needed for the bolt. M15 was tried early on and the axle was not strong enough with this bolt standard.

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Old 2010-06-14, 06:53 PM   #27
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Different topic:

It is just frustrating when you have a new hub, a 36" uni but no spokes with correct length.
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I hope I'll get the spokes soon. For the time being I ride my 36" with the original hub
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Old 2010-06-14, 07:06 PM   #28
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Nice photos! Can you not get the spokes for a non-geared hub? As they are longer than those required for the KH/Schlumpf hub, any bikeshop with a spoke cutter should be able to cut them to the correct length.

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Old 2010-06-14, 08:21 PM   #29
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That's really weird -- are you sure you are pushing the shaft in before you tightening the bolt? Not doing that can easily cause one to strip the end.

I haven't stripped any of my bolts, and we have three hubs.

-corbin
Yeah the rod is pushed in. I had issues with beginning to round out the bolts when I used a hex key and a hex adapter for a socket wrench although I never received the hex adapter that florian started to send with the newer hubs.
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Old 2010-06-14, 08:25 PM   #30
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Of course I do have the old spokes from the non-geared hub - which I currently ride. But I want to keep them, just in case my hub needs to make "holidays" in Switzerland. I've spoken to some people who waited ages until their hubs got repaired or replaced. This would then allow me to build a non-geared wheel to continue riding 36".
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