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Old 2011-05-26, 09:08 PM   #61
Tucson Uni
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I have thought about putting 137s on my 24 guni. I have 125/150s now. I ride in the 150 hole. I did a spell with the 125 setting. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be, but I decided I liked the extra control of the 150s. 137s might be a nice compromise, but I am reluctanct to mess with changing cranks on my Schlumpf (the bolts felt like they stripped a little when I put them on).
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Old 2011-05-26, 09:10 PM   #62
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I've always rode 150s on my Muni, and last year I decided to test the 137s and they felt awesome! I had to go back to 150s because I was using the 137s on my Trials unicycle, but now I'm going back again on 137s!

I love the 137s on the 24" wheel because there's not as much control (I love that feeling) and there's much more speed when riding Muni. I feel that I dont have to worry as much for the little rocks on the trails.
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Old 2011-05-26, 09:16 PM   #63
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I know it's been covered on this forum many times, but there is definitely something to the ratio of the effective diameter of your wheel (including tire) and the length of the cranks you're using (convert each to same units and divide effective wheel diameter by the crank length). I won't post a table here, but you can generate one yourself. When I did this for myself I realized that for my KH24 (with 24x3 Nokian Gazz) using 137mm cranks has nearly the same ratio as I had when I was riding my 26" (with 26x3 Nokian Gazz) with 150mm cranks. Ratios are 4.82 vs. 4.74 respectfully, so not a whole lot of difference.

So your 29er with 150s (assuming 29" is the effective diameter) has a ratio of 4.91, your 24 with 150s would be 4.06 -> 4.4 depending on how big a tire you use.

Anyhow, I like the shorter cranks on my 24" muni I realize because I was comfortable with a similar ratio on my 26" muni! Duh!
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Old 2011-05-26, 09:24 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tucson Uni View Post
... 137s might be a nice compromise, but I am reluctanct to mess with changing cranks on my Schlumpf (the bolts felt like they stripped a little when I put them on).
I've got a Schlumpf Hub on my KH24 as well. I decided to risk it and it's been worth it. I don't think this is the exact place to post this "technique" but here it goes.

When I'm installing my cranks onto the Schlumpf hub I *FIRST* use the traditional crank bolts that come with the standard KH Hub (or Nimbus for that matter) to really put the cranks on tight (you don't have to worry about stripping these crank bolts). Just make sure the shifting rod on that side of the hub is engaged to give you the maximum amount of leverage. I put the cranks on tight using this method then remove the crank bolt and put on the KH/Schlumpf crank bolt. I find that I don't have to put it on super tight, just as tight as I can safely do it w/o risking stripping the bolt.

Using the above technique I've had not issues with my hub, nor problems with the cranks coming loose, nor stripping the bolts! I think probably one of the best solutions would be to hollow out the traditional KH crank bolt, and maybe grind it down a little and use these in place of the provided crank bolts that are very prone to stripping!

Good luck! The 137mm / 24x3 combo really seems to work quite well!
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Old 2011-05-27, 10:03 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by MuniSano View Post
I think probably one of the best solutions would be to hollow out the traditional KH crank bolt, and maybe grind it down a little and use these in place of the provided crank bolts that are very prone to stripping!
I have a traditional KH crank bolt with a hole drilled through the centre (thanks to Peter Goodman ;-) which I use to do the initial tightening of cranks onto Schlumpf hubs. Once I've tightened up the KH bolt I remove it and put in the Schlumpf crank bolt. Because it is an 8mm allen key you can really haul on it and get 90% of the mounting done without risking rounding out those soft 6mm Schlumpf crank bolts. I only have one of these modified KH crank bolts so I only use it for mounting cranks, but as you point out using two of these instead of the original Schlumpf bolts would be a great improvement!

Back on topic - I've been riding with 140mm cranks on my KH24 for some months and really like them. I'm soon going to change to 130mm.
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Old 2013-08-16, 12:50 PM   #66
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I have started using my Oracle 24 for most, if not all, of my muni. It has the stock 150mm holes, obviously no geared hub. I was thinking of trying my 137s from my trials. I like the uni, but wonder if most of the time I need such long cranks for such a small wheel.

Are there folks out there now-a-days who ride the non-geared 24 with 137s?
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Old 2013-08-16, 02:40 PM   #67
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Personally I ride 137's on my ungeared KH24. For technical riding I really like this size. I do think that brakes become more important with the shorter cranks.
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Old 2013-08-16, 03:57 PM   #68
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Personally I ride 137's on my ungeared KH24.
I was going to laugh if you'd said nimbus or some other brand.
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Old 2013-08-16, 05:04 PM   #69
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I rode my 24" & 3" tyre with 137s a few times. The 137s are great all rounders but when I started to ride up steeper hills they didn't give me enough torque. I'm currently using a 150mm setting and I'm enjoying it. I cycle through forests a lot and the lower saddle position with the 150s makes it easier to duck under tree branches and gives me a lower centre of gravity.The 150 setting also makes it easier to roll over those big tree roots. I use a Magura rim brake which is handy for going down steep hills.

If I was doing flat trails then I would go for shorter cranks i.e. 110/125 moments maybe 137s on a windy day.

For moderate hill work I find the 137s ideal The rotational distance feels very comfortable, they don't feel choppy as I ride. So if you feel that the 150s are too long for what you're doing, then you'll be very happy with a 137 setting.

Hope this helps.
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Old 2013-08-16, 06:11 PM   #70
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I'll try it. I have not had a problem with torque up hills on the 150s, so experimenting with shorter cranks to see if I can get smoother riding may be in order.
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Old 2013-08-16, 06:20 PM   #71
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150's on a 24" is pretty long, lots of pedal strike issues, kind of an overkill for such a small wheel.

Get 137's or even 125's, learn to use your brake, hop more.

You will not get "rolling flow" on a small wheel off road no matter what crank length you run, it's just gonna be a choppy ride, esp if you are climbing. A 24" is really not a uni for covering distance unless it has a Schlumpf, so focus on the down, what feels good, a shorter crank will spin easier, take you "less out of your center", will hop better, but you'll want a brake to help with speed control.

Crank length is all about balancing the down with the up, without gears we are stuck with a compromise. The other thing to consider is having unis for specific trail types, so a 29er for fast flowy stuff, a 26er for mixed conditions, and a 24" for tech stuff and downhill.
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Old 2013-08-16, 07:02 PM   #72
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Yes, I have a 29er for that, but as I said I got the 24 because I was having a lot of problems up hill, which the 24 has improved.

I will switch out my trials cranks (137s) for the 150s and see how it goes. If I like 150s on a 29 I can only imagine that 150s on a 24 is overkill.
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Old 2013-08-16, 09:50 PM   #73
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Yeah, reducing wheel size is really the only way to change gearing for climbing.

A 29" wheel is a whole lot bigger than a 24", it's kind of a shame you don't have a tweener...
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Old 2013-08-16, 11:01 PM   #74
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135's are the perfect size for a 24 I would say, I can honestly climb with them just fine. I think the shorter cranks are better for uphill sections, the short cranks make you go faster and this lets you roll over a lot more things and keep a flow with your pedaling. Dowhill sections are the same, use the speed to your advantage and just roll over and jump everything. My legs arent godly so I rely on the brake a lot to slow me down.
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Old 2013-08-17, 12:19 AM   #75
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If the 137's are too much fore the uphills consider 125/150 cranks and trails that are mostly up then back down so u don't have to switch the position too often.
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