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Old 2008-08-14, 12:56 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phlegm
Climbing does feel easier to me with 137s than 150s, and I'm definitely one who enjoys climbing. I could propose a number reasons for why 137s feel easier to me, but frankly I don't care.
Haha, ok Rhett!
Like I said, "feel" is the word. But sometimes perception is reality! I do think you'd be singing a different tune if you tried climbing with 89's....but then again, maybe you'd find those the easiest of them all! I mean, anything is possible...in the bizarro world!
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Last edited by MuniAddict; 2008-08-14 at 12:58 AM.
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Old 2008-08-14, 12:59 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MuniAddict
HAha I was only referring to *climbing* with shorter and shorter cranks, and that some people were declaring that the shorter they [cranks] are, they are somehow *easier* to climb with. Maybe more efficient yes, but more pedal force is required than with longer cranks. That's just a simple fact. Less leverage=more force required.

You referred to *SPINNING FAST*, meaning DOWNHILL. Lol, I know that the shorter cranks are great for DH, as KH first posted about in this thread. I love spinning fast too..especially with a camera in my hand shooting POV! It was only the uphill aspect that I was talkng about, and that if your primary focus is "spinning fast" downhill, then hells yeah! Shorter cranks rule!

But for me, I like climbing and everything else, so a good, muilt-purpose 150mm is just right for me.
For sure the key word is "feel". It's hard to be quantitative and useless to argue that one length is better than another in an absolute sense, because with experimentation everyone will arrive at the crank length that feels best for them.

However, many riders have never experimented with crank length because most riders don't have the luxury of owning every wheel size and crank length option available.

The main thing about using shorter cranks for technically hard riding is - try it for long enough to get used to it and you just might like it. If you don't then whatever- it doesn't matter. There is no one good crank length but there are one or two sizes that will be preferred by most people, most of the time. And try it with a brake!

Kris

Last edited by danger_uni; 2008-08-14 at 01:01 AM.
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Old 2008-08-14, 01:00 AM   #18
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I'm looking forward to getting my new KH24 with 150/125s and a brake. The brake will give the stopping power and I'll be able to adapt to lots of terrain. I think that double hole cranks are the way to go on a muni now.
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Old 2008-08-14, 01:03 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danger_uni
For sure the key word is "feel". It's hard to be quantitative and useless to argue that one length is better than another in an absolute sense, because with experimentation everyone will arrive at the crank length that feels best for them.

However, many riders have never experimented with crank length because most riders don't have the luxury of owning every wheel size and crank length option available.

I think the main thing about using shorter cranks for technically hard riding is - try it for long enough to get used to it and you just might like it. And try it with a brake!

Kris
Fair enough!
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Old 2008-08-14, 02:05 AM   #20
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So what does this mean for me since I just ordered a KH muni with 165s. I thought they were the best for hardcore muni but now I have my doubts. Do you think they'll give me too much trouble?
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Old 2008-08-14, 02:13 AM   #21
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Not at all. I rode with 165's for technical muni from 1998-2005 and really liked that length. It just depends on what you are used to.

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Old 2008-08-14, 02:27 AM   #22
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i think its funny that this thread starts right after i ask someone to trade me my 150s for 165s

maybe i just need to get on my muni more...
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Old 2008-08-14, 03:35 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danger_uni
Hey,

After a summer of riding a 36'er with 110's, I decided to replace the 150's on my KH24 with 137's and see how it felt on technical downhill on the Vancouver North Shore. I've used shorter cranks before for XC riding but never on harder stuff.

Only one ride so far, but I really like it and am going to stick with it for now. Descents feel much smoother and it is easier to spin out off the bottom of transitions. Also cornering is smoother and it is nice not to worry so much about hitting pedals on the ground.

Big caveat: Using this setup for technical riding really benefits from effective use of a brake, especially with a Spooner on it. I felt like I was depending on the brake for most of my braking power through transitions and quick stops. It's nice to do that anyway with 150's but with the 137's it actually felt easier to brake while pedalling through bumps.

Also, it is easier to get used to this if you are already used to pushing shorter cranks on a 36'er.

Just thought I'd pass that along. Anyone else tried this setup?

Kris
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Old 2008-08-14, 03:50 AM   #24
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great discussion.A few months ago I swapped my 150's for 137's on my 24" muni and went on a 15k ride.I have 2k of road to the trail head and was hoping it would take care of the bitumen a bit quicker and it did but my control over roots and rocks was very sketchy compared to the 150's.Overall the 137's were slower over the whole ride so I went back to the 150's.Maybe if I allowed more time to adapt the 137's would be better.mmmm now where did i put those short cranks?
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Old 2008-08-14, 04:34 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubix
The shorter the cranks, the less torque you can get on them
This may be slightly off topic, but since I don't MUni currently and this thread has me interested; do Unicycles react the same way as bikes do with high torque in that wheel spinning occurs in long crank length? I'm of course talking on a climb, and with 165mm's+.
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Old 2008-08-14, 04:38 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adjuggler
This may be slightly off topic, but since I don't MUni currently and this thread has me interested; do Unicycles react the same way as bikes do with high torque in that wheel spinning occurs in long crank length? I'm of course talking on a climb, and with 165mm's+.
Yes. Often the problem in climbing with a muni is that you have too much power and spin out the wheel, not too little.
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Old 2008-08-14, 04:41 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adjuggler
This may be slightly off topic, but since I don't MUni currently and this thread has me interested; do Unicycles react the same way as bikes do with high torque in that wheel spinning occurs in long crank length? I'm of course talking on a climb, and with 165mm's+.
This is just me speaking, but I have yet to spin the wheel climbing, of what little muni I've done. Someone else may have, but with all your weight on the wheel, I would think its rather difficult to spin a uni wheel climbing, regardless of crank length.

I think the longer the crank length, more Ooomf...the shorter the lenght, more zoom. I'm thinking you want to find that happy medium for both when it comes to crank length, no matter how you ride.
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Old 2008-08-14, 04:52 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubix
This is just me speaking, but I have yet to spin the wheel climbing, of what little muni I've done. Someone else may have, but with all your weight on the wheel, I would think its rather difficult to spin a uni wheel climbing, regardless of crank length.
It's not hard if you're in the mud or the wet, or if the dirt/earth/gravel under you is loose.

I think shorter cranks would help hill climbing in scenarios as described above, because they help keep momentum and speed up. With longer cranks you can push a lot harder and it would be easier to spin out.

Of course, with either setup you are still able to modulate the force you put into the pedals to avoid spinning out--with longer cranks it just takes that bit more modulation.

165, 137, whatever. If it feels right, use it.

Thanks for exposing us to another way to use the wheel, Kris.
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Old 2008-08-14, 06:04 AM   #29
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I don't do much muni, but I found the same thing as Kris.

I was mostly a 36er rider and I used 114/125s most of the time. With the 125s I could even do some singletrack on the 36er. Using 150s on a 24 just felt silly to me. The reason the brake feels nicer is the same reason a brake on a 36er feels nicer with short cranks...you wobble less with shorter cranks so everything is smoother.

I think that riding a 36er with short cranks is very beneficial for muni riders and should be good cross training. Once you learn to control a massive 36" wheel with short cranks on uphills and downhills, a 24 or 29" wheel becomes less of a hassle to you and your climbs and descents should become easier.
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Old 2008-08-14, 06:38 AM   #30
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Crank length for muni is always a compromise. Nothing is going to be optimal for all situations. There are going to be pros and cons to crank length, wheel size, tire selection and other factors. The rider has to choose where to make the compromises and what set of options is best for the way they ride. Short cranks require a different style of riding than long cranks. Climbing style will be different. How you get over bumps and roots will be different. It's all a compromise and an effort to balance the pros and cons. It's also a matter of balancing your riding style with the equipment.

I have a spare muni wheel. One of these days I ought to put shorter cranks on the spare wheel and try it out for a couple of weeks.
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